Making Adjustable Cam Gears for 4AGE

[Jebus]

Ive been looking for these for a little while and am interested in making
up custom ones while im in the mood for make up my own shit.

Ive seen the small article written by Bill Sherwood on it, but its not very detailed:

The other way is to cut the centre out of the cam wheel (Leaving a stub of the spokes on the outer edge about 1/2" wide) and machine a disc of alloy (Which has a hole drilled in the centre to fit the main cam bolt through and a smaller hole for the locking pin) to neatly fit into the centre of the cam wheel, with machined slots to allow bolts to go through to the stubs of the cam wheel spokes. The slots will allow you to move the alloy disc in relation to the out toothed part, and so adjust the cam timing very quickly and easily.

Can anyone provide some more info on what designs are best/cost efficient and what can go wrong with custom made ones that can justify buying the likes of AEM or HKS? Even Kelfords are $400 and palmside modify stock ones for $225 + GST.

Anyone got comments or links, to either ones for sale (cheapish) or info on making up custom ones.

Cheers

[Drifter4ag]

second hand ones show up on trademe from time to time .. normally about $150 - 200 which is pretty reasonable if they are in great condition.

[Mr Revhead]

the middle ones in that pic are TRD ones. and are a lot cheaper than those other options

[Jebus]

TRD ones are vernier? What are they worth?

Wouldnt you be better off drilling holes in standard ones?

[Mr Revhead]

no... TRD ones are the MIDDLE ones.
multi hole
do you trust yaself to drill that accuratly?
thats also why there are so cheap

[Jebus]

Here's a pic of a standard cam wheel, (on left) a vernier cam wheel, (middle) and a fully adjustable one.

Middle ones = Vernier, far right are fully adjustable.

How much are the TRD ones?

[Mr Revhead]

nah the ones on the right are what is reffered to as vernier type.

use google


$160ish to your door

[Jebus]

To make it easy to change the cam timing, there are a couple of ways of doing it. Both involve some machine work, but the easiest, though technically most difficult is to make the cam and cam wheel a 'vernier' set-up. To do this you must drill a number of equally spaced holes in the front of the cam and the cam wheel where the locating pin runs through. The trick is to have a different number of holes, eg, nine in the cam and eight in the cam wheel. This means that to make the holes line up you'll have to look around to find a point where the holes line up so you can fit the locking pin.

Bill Sherwood says otherwise, ah well. either way doesnt really matter, im not sure, im just robbing quotes from Bills website

About the TRD ones have you got a link or more info about them and maybe a pic(do they come more bling looking than in the pic above?). Im quite interested, cheers. (cant find any guff on them searching)

[Mr Revhead]

they have 8 holes each hole is 0.5deg different.
they have no bling what so ever.
not even TRD on them! they are made to go under cam covers afterall!

[Jebus]

As much as I want them for the function I also want the added bling, as you can see from my avatar I dont run cam covers. Cheers for answering my many questions, ill let ya know if I want a set.

[Mr Revhead]

BEWARE THE STONE


also do you run the lower section? that has been know to get full of sh*t if the top covers are left off

[Jebus]

Beware the finger of idiots pointing around my engine bay. hehe

I still run the bottom ones, but will just undo the bottom every now and again to clean it out, its fairly easily accessed on my motor. If each hole is a 0.5 degree increment and theres 8 holes, four a side = 2 degrees either way?? Is that correct?

[Mr Revhead]

ahhh i cant remember if its 2 either way or 4 one way....
i personally havnt used a set yet.
i think its 2 either way. shouldnt need to alter the cams much more than that

[AceSniper]

how much do 20v ones go for?

[Mr Revhead]

i dont have a supplier for them im afraid

[atmosports]

I'd call the ones on the far right vernier style. The trd ones I'd call multihole or offset dowel type. 2 Degs of adjustment might not be enough depending on cams/clearance etc, I've run more than 2 degs etc way at time. 0.5degree adjustment should be fine as that's about what I'll usually aim for 0.5deg out on each cam max unless I'm being anal. Good part about the trd ones is they are never going to slip, I have heard stories of vernier styles ones slipping but have never seen a set do it myself & one of my sets that supposedly moved on a honda the guy would never let me see them & he continued to use them again at 10,000rpm so guess they never moved then.

If you are making a set, best to either CNC them or make up a jig, I've done both ways & it's way faster/easier & probably more accurate. You'll need either a 6000 or 7000 series aluminium for the centres or else you could run steel. Use high grade 12.8 or above capscrews & a make up a washer to go between the capscrew & the centre plate.

As for 20V ones, there is a few people who make them but no 100% sure who. Pretty sure you can use 16V on the exhaust or else modify that to suit easily. The hassle is the inlet cam, there is basically no easy way or making it adjustabel without loosing the VVT action & even if you did work out a way I'm pretty sure they'd move/slip when advancing/retarding the came by the VVT mechanism. I have made ones up to replace the inlet & lock the cam in place they just take a little bit longer to make/fit. There is a few other mods that I do when I do this as well just to add reliability.

[AceSniper]

im going to need some that disables vvt :p just gota save up i guess

[CozmoNz]

http://www.todaracing.com/products/toyo ... ulley.html

Avilable for 16v 4age, 20v ae101 4age, 20v ae111 4age.

[AceSniper]

yea at a price.... looking for cheaper than toda if pos