700bux setup

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700bux setup

Postby Primo » Thu Sep 15, 2005 12:02 am

I have been asked from my mate to help him some of his sound system home work and i have come up with some ideas

i just want to know whether this setup values for the money and how you guys think of sub or amp

The setup im going to advice him is

Lanzer
Vibe 258

2X 400wat RMS at 4 OHM

$299

or 268

2 x 500 wat RMS at 4 ohm

$349

All from PaRal Import

and for the Sub i need bit of help here

He is prefrered to have two subs and i can only think of 99bux sub otherwise i would advice some infinity 12 inches but here is wout i have found best deal of 99bux ones

Pioner 306DVC

Dual coil

400w rms

$99

I think its 4ohm(plese correct me if i am wrong)

JBL GTO 1204D

Dual coil

2-8 Ohm dependin on wire setup

400w rms

$99


I will make the box and it wil cost around $90 max (box + pizza :D )

or BOX kit from Import (i will buy that if it is ported or recommanded for yours)

and wiring kit (dunno what guage kit i should use) ($90)

He has pretty decent head unit it has pre amp out it looks like

DEH-5750MP Doesn read mp3 cds and has dolphin and pyramid pictures moving when he is playin music lol 8O


What do u think of Sub he is getting??? I am infinity fan so im kinda lost with Pioneers and JBL or is there better deal for it? Please Help

*ps I like to say to him "lets buy a 10" or 12" kickers and if it sets up with good box it will destroy ur back windowscreen!"
When i was 16 it used to be $25 for a full tank

Now it cost $45+ for a full tank
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Postby blackie » Thu Sep 15, 2005 1:04 pm

.. What front speakers does he have, sure there will be plenty of bass but without fronts it will just sound shit as..

Pioneer subs are usually alright for some oonst oonst, probably not the best sound quality, i used to have a.. 304C i think? VCCS or whatever
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front..

Postby Primo » Thu Sep 15, 2005 8:34 pm

I think he has 6inch n tweeter Alpine Component and sony 6x9 at the back..
When i was 16 it used to be $25 for a full tank

Now it cost $45+ for a full tank
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Fudge

Postby Primo » Fri Sep 16, 2005 7:56 am

:oops: He went to parallel import after getting quote from street soundz which was all fusion setup

And he bought Mighty Mighty 250bux Fast and Furious Kit :twisted: after all the homework
:evil:


O well the shit kit doesn goin in to my car so im not bother any more that was his choice Thank you for u guyz help

Problem Solved 8)
When i was 16 it used to be $25 for a full tank

Now it cost $45+ for a full tank
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Postby GGnz » Fri Sep 16, 2005 11:10 am

Get the Lanzar 258 and maybe 2 subs... I used to power one of these subs with this Lanzar amp and it went well but I had to bridge the channels and turn the amp right done. If you going to see a powerful amp might as well use the power and get two subs.

I still have the Lanzar amp now and a $999 2000w Pioneer Comp Sub. So goes well but its not actually louder then the 400W sub I used to have. Is better quality though.

Just be sure to use the right type of box. If you got any questions bout the box/ports etc. pm BlackRazor.

Just note that if you want awesome quality then Lanzar is probably not the best branded amp to get.
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Postby blackie » Fri Sep 16, 2005 12:15 pm

He got the F&F pack!?!?!?!?!
jesus titty $&#$% christ..

thats like the worlds shittest sub package.
oh god dammit.

another sucker to marketing..
oh well, not your problem... or mine
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Postby blackie » Fri Sep 16, 2005 12:16 pm

GGnz wrote:I still have the Lanzar amp now and a $999 2000w Pioneer Comp Sub. So goes well but its not actually louder then the 400W sub I used to have. Is better quality though.


Probably cuz your running it off the same amp..
so its getting the same power......
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Postby DeeCee » Fri Sep 16, 2005 12:24 pm

haha - PM Blackrazor?? he's on holiday at the moment so may not answer for the next couple of weeks!! :lol:

F&F pack is terrible - your mate got ripped off.. not much left to say after that.

and GGnz - drop your Pioneer sub into a solid as box and feed it more power and you'll get more performance.. and for $999 it better come with more than a brand name and some cheesy carbon cone looks otherwise you got done like a christmas turkey.. and if you are quoting retail then don't bother.. people quoting retail is like the twit that was quoting 450 from a ct26 :)
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Postby GGnz » Fri Sep 16, 2005 1:12 pm

Yeah the box is pretty solid (I dropped it on my foot when carrying it to the car and broke a toe...).

Pics:

Image

Image
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Postby GGnz » Fri Sep 16, 2005 1:30 pm

Oh yeah forgot to mention. With that Sub and Amp combo it put out 110db when we measure it at the last meet. Probably would do 120-130 since the volume was turned down as well.
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Postby DeeCee » Fri Sep 16, 2005 1:31 pm

is that the TSW121SPL? You'll need 750wrms to feed it.. around 500wrms shuold be sufficient.

also, your cable to your amp is insufficient for large power draws that the sub will want. I suggest upgrading to 4ga power wire and grounds to ensure that you have adequate current flow as well as upgrading the battery to something over 500CCA :)
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Postby GGnz » Fri Sep 16, 2005 1:37 pm

DeeCee wrote:is that the TSW121SPL? You'll need 750wrms to feed it.. around 500wrms shuold be sufficient.

also, your cable to your amp is insufficient for large power draws that the sub will want. I suggest upgrading to 4ga power wire and grounds to ensure that you have adequate current flow as well as upgrading the battery to something over 500CCA :)


$&#$% I told the guy that I thought 4ga was better and it would run better with it!!! He insisted so I turned out giving up. Well theres something for me to do sometime.

Sub model is TS-W2000SPL but yeah it is 705wrms. Running at probably about 650wrms-700wrms at the mo I think. Havent really had a chance to play with settings on the amp yet.
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Postby Alex B » Fri Sep 16, 2005 1:42 pm

Not the best idea having the amp on the box either, alot of people do it but i wouldnt think the componenets inside like the shakey shakey too much.
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Postby DeeCee » Fri Sep 16, 2005 1:56 pm

the TSW121SPL and the 2000SPL are the same.. just interenational product codes are different.
are you running it off that Lanzar? cos it won't be making 650 - 700wrms.. otherwise you would be louder than you say it is. I suggest getting a true RMS clamp meter to really see what the amp is pushing out.. maybe you have a sparky friend who has one.

and is that box even ported??

also what pyro said is correct, is the box is not built solidly then you can possibly damage the amp with it being attached. You may want to use some sort of isolation to minimise possible damage - use some thick rubber wachers or a rubber padding between the box and the amp :)
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Postby GGnz » Fri Sep 16, 2005 2:02 pm

Sweet thanks for the tips. Will find out all the info and try a few things and will let you know how I get on.
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Yea Im quite down by his choice

Postby Primo » Fri Sep 16, 2005 8:28 pm

Yea his choice is peice of %(@0

When i looked at the sub It had most thin Rubber Band Ive ever seen and it was solid as

Well he is pretty happy with whot he gor for 250

It ain problem anyway and i have advised him

if i had 250 i would not buy that fudged & Fartsounds kit



Um im not really guru for the sound system

but from my experience, bolting Amp on the Box aint very good idea becauese one of my amp was broken becuz of the vibration of the sub box

Discircuited a few of stuff inside the amp

If u have sub car will still vibrate but i rekon putting in other place than the box will at least reduce the IMPACT VIBRATION

Please correct me if im wrong here
When i was 16 it used to be $25 for a full tank

Now it cost $45+ for a full tank
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Postby Alex B » Fri Sep 16, 2005 10:01 pm

Yeap its verry correct mines behind the seats on that bit that goes throu to the boot if ya get me..Makes it harder for crims to remove as well.
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