TE71 driveshaft + clutch problem - HELP!

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TE71 driveshaft + clutch problem - HELP!

Postby fuel » Mon Oct 03, 2005 1:37 pm

I've got a NZ built TE71R Corolla with standard 2T-B and K50 gearbox, with drum brake rear end (unsure of diff series).

I recently acquired a 2T-GEU and T50 gearbox, unsure what it was out of - maybe TA61 Celica, as it has electronic ignition.

Now, I imagine I will require a different driveshaft when I fit the T50 box.

Does anyone know the spline count of my original driveshaft? How many different spline count driveshafts were there for the K50/T50? What other Toyotas can I get the driveshaft I need from? I haven't actually checked the spline count on my T50 yet, but I assume it will be different to my original driveshaft spline count.

Also does anyone know what series diff mine is? And what other toyotas can I grab a disc brake rear end from (other than AE86 of course)?

I'm a newbie when it comes to Toyotas, so sorry if these questions have obvious answers. :P
Last edited by fuel on Tue Oct 04, 2005 5:26 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby AE85coupe » Mon Oct 03, 2005 5:10 pm

most k50's have a 20 spline driveshaft

early t50's also have a 20 spline driveshaft, so if you have an earlier t50 you won't need another driveshaft, the k50 one will work

but if its a later t50 then it will be 22 spline

in which case you will need to find an AE86 or TE71 22 spline driveshaft, or get one made up to suit

Diff wise another disc brake diff you can use is from MA45 shape celicas, these are slightly longer than te71 and ae86 and with bigger discs, they are bolt in but you should really (but don't have to) shorten or get an adjustable panhard rod
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Postby z|gen » Mon Oct 03, 2005 6:01 pm

your te71 came with a T50 from factory, not a K50
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Postby AE85coupe » Mon Oct 03, 2005 7:52 pm

z|gen wrote:your te71 came with a T50 from factory, not a K50


hahaha its true hahahahaha wish i'd realised that before i answered the question heh

i don't think there is a k50 with a bellhousing to fit t series engines at all, so your original box must be a t50 :)
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Postby z|gen » Mon Oct 03, 2005 8:32 pm

of course its true..i had the exact same model car, and i have a toyota workshop manual with it in front of me.

the T40 gbox came with a K series bellhousing, but the K series g/box never came with a T series bellhousing, let alone is the bellhousing removable on the K series box.

:D
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Postby fuel » Mon Oct 03, 2005 10:35 pm

Oh real? You sir have just made my day! :twisted:

I was just told it was a K50!... man.. so I didn't need to buy this T50 at all... ahh well.. anyone want to buy a T50 now? :P Actually better to keep it as a spare.

As for the rear diff/axle, will one from a TA61 Celica fit?

Also this sounds stupid.. but how to you bleed the clutch correctly? Is it the same process as bleeding the brakes? When I got the car, it wouldn't disengage the clutch. I found the clutch slave cylinder was leaking so I replaced it with a brand new one and bled the line just like bleeding brakes, while getting someone to pump the clutch pedal. It still doesn't seem to be disengaging the clutch, but the pedal is more firmer to push.. what gives? The car was apparently driving fine before it was parked up before I got it.
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Postby fangsport » Mon Oct 03, 2005 11:01 pm

AE85coupe wrote:Diff wise another disc brake diff you can use is from MA45 shape celicas, these are slightly longer than te71 and ae86 and with bigger discs, they are bolt in but you should really (but don't have to) shorten or get an adjustable panhard rod


if the Celica diff is used you NEED to use a longer( approx 45mm) panhard and also need to use adjustable trailing arms. the panhard stops guard rubbage on 1 side and the adjustable top arm eliminate the hideous axle tramp the Celica diffs end up with. the MA 45 has a much larger diff head(G or F, can't remember which) the TA45 is 6.7", same as AE86/TE71.
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Postby wde_bdy » Mon Oct 03, 2005 11:11 pm

fangsport wrote:the MA 45 has a much larger diff head(G or F, can't remember which) the TA45 is 6.7", same as AE86/TE71.


F, 7.5" diff.
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Postby AE85coupe » Tue Oct 04, 2005 9:37 am

hmmm the MA45 i helped wreck had a diff head the same size as an AE86

maybe it was a TA45 diff in an MA45

sorry for the confusion


and no a TA61 diff won't fit as its independant rear suspension not solid axle
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Postby fuel » Tue Oct 04, 2005 5:13 pm

Ahh yep thanks for that.

Hrmm.. at the moment I need to concentrate on getting the clutch to work.

I've replaced the clutch slave cylinder and you can see the cylinder arm moving the clutch arm a good 3cm or so when someone is pumping the clutch.. so it seems to be bled properly.

Problem is, the clutch still wont disengage.. the pedal feels relatively normal to push down on, as opposed to soft like it was before I replaced the clutch slave cylinder.

I have a spare used clutch and cover assembly from my 2T-GEU engine I have yet to put in.. would this be able to fit my 2T-B engine? I haven't actually changed a clutch disc myself yet (I've replaced a fair few mitsi autos though haha), so don't quite know exactly what to do when it comes to alignment. How much would the alignment tool usually cost?

I need to get this car mobile within a week or so.. and time's running out :evil:

Cheers for any help
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Postby fangsport » Tue Oct 04, 2005 6:45 pm

AE85coupe wrote:
and no a TA61 diff won't fit as its independant rear suspension not solid axle


and i thought the TA61 was live, going IRS with the 63?

Problem is, the clutch still wont disengage.. the pedal feels relatively normal to push down on, as opposed to soft like it was before I replaced the clutch slave cylinder.

I have a spare used clutch and cover assembly from my 2T-GEU engine I have yet to put in.. would this be able to fit my 2T-B engine? I haven't actually changed a clutch disc myself yet (I've replaced a fair few mitsi autos though haha), so don't quite know exactly what to do when it comes to alignment. How much would the alignment tool usually cost?

did the gearbox slide on to a transition fit, or wound up tight on the bolts?
i had the very same issue with the first clutch i done(many moons ago!!), and it was an aligment issue.
take the box off and loosen the cover bolts. you should be able to get it aligned by making sure the disc is flush with the pressure plate, there are areas on the p/plate where you can push the disc to the point of flush. HTH
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Postby fuel » Tue Oct 04, 2005 7:03 pm

I never put the clutch in or took the gearbox off. It was just driven around, then parked up for a few months. I would assume the clutch has stuck to the flywheel/pressure plate.
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Postby fangsport » Tue Oct 04, 2005 7:23 pm

fuel wrote:I never put the clutch in or took the gearbox off. It was just driven around, then parked up for a few months. I would assume the clutch has stuck to the flywheel/pressure plate.


OK. the 2-TB one will only work if the input shaft is the same.
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