0.0 ohmes from my injectors??

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0.0 ohmes from my injectors??

Postby l1ttle_d3vil » Wed Oct 12, 2005 9:07 pm

Ive been testing the voltage and ohmes on everything on my car today, all the major things seem OK except the injection side of it.

the things ive tested so far is:

* MAP Sensor
* Throttle Position sensor
* Water temp sensor (on back of head)

these are all sweet, exact voltage, ohms etc, all operating correctly.

now when I test the cold start injector on the manifold, the injectors themselves, and the cold start injector timer on the back of the head for ohmes I get nothing. well, on the timer I had 0.5 ohmes.

so whats up with all of this? these are the only things I could find which dont seem to have the correct ohms. is it just my luck that all 3 of these things are faulty, or could it be something else?

any ideas would be much appreciated.

cheers :D
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Postby evil_si » Wed Oct 12, 2005 9:20 pm

how are you testing them? unplugged?
what is your multimeter set on? what range?

if you have 0 ohms you are doing something wrong, there HAS to be a resistance

are your mulitmeter leads plugged in properly?
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Postby l1ttle_d3vil » Wed Oct 12, 2005 9:28 pm

ive tested them unplugged, checking the terminals on both the injector and also on the plug off the loom just incase. and ive tried both these ways with the engine running and without it running (except for the actual injectors ofcourse, not that it makes any difference if its inplugged)

ive also tried it with the multimeter on 2k, 20k, and 20m. and to make sure I tested the injectors, got nothing, tested the TPS with the multimeter set the same way and got the correct ohmes, then tested the injectors and got nothing again.
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Postby evil_si » Wed Oct 12, 2005 9:48 pm

ok do you have a lower ohms option? 2k is like $&#$% huge. let along 20k or 20m
you dont test resistance with power on a circuit, so you want the loom unplugged.

what does the multi meter actually read? o/l, or 0.0, if its 0.0 id say the terminals are touching or something as because its a solenoid there has to be a resistace of some sort, if they are $&#$% there will usually be a high resistance
what do you get when you touch the leads together? 0.0, 0.1, 0.5 etc?
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Postby Ae92typeX » Wed Oct 12, 2005 9:58 pm

try on 200, thats the setting I use to check injectors.
2000/2k as said is pretty big, but I would still expect you to get a rounded number
Cant believe im still a member here.

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Postby JamesM » Wed Oct 12, 2005 10:34 pm

please make sure ur not half asleep like u said u were when testing the tps lol... you must be testing them wrong.. because the sensor in the back of the block is a resistor in itself pretty much.. becomes less as it warms up.. injectors are in the 0-15ohm range.. so dont have ur multimeter set on anytihng above that..

and you must do it with the loom unplugged from the injector...
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Postby l1ttle_d3vil » Thu Oct 13, 2005 8:25 am

ok im going to head down to work now and try it, I will unplugged the battery so there can be no power at all going through them and will try it on 200.

and the multimeter was reading 0.0.
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Postby l1ttle_d3vil » Thu Oct 13, 2005 8:50 am

ok just tested all three with the multimeter set to 200 and this is what I got. why are the injectors difference from everything else though? for everything else Ive tested it on 20k and got a correct reading.

INJECTORS: 02.5 (i assume that is read as 2.5, as the correct resistance should be approximately 2.3)

COLD START INJECTOR: 03.6 - the resistance should be 2 - 4 ohmes.

COLD START TIMER: 30.5 at cold; it should be 20 - 40 ohms when below 30ºC.

soo im guessing all that is correct. next step is to test all the voltages on the ecu... :lol:
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Postby JamesM » Thu Oct 13, 2005 3:34 pm

because the sensitivity of the multimeter it cant read the value of the injectors.. cause its so small.. 2.5 compared to 2000 that the multimeter range on the multimeter..

what exactly is wrong with how the car is running?
rather than just trying to stab in the dark at what ur issues are with the engine.
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Postby l1ttle_d3vil » Thu Oct 13, 2005 4:35 pm

its running inconsistently, really bad and over-fueling one minute then running really smoothly next time i start it. im checking everything which could cause it to overfuel, and im also sorting out a test light so I can put it into diagnostics mode and see what that tells me.
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Postby Jebus » Thu Oct 13, 2005 4:54 pm

What components have you replaced/tried?

Did you double check the green plug in the back of the head?
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Postby l1ttle_d3vil » Thu Oct 13, 2005 6:25 pm

ive tried it with different ECUs, map sensors, temperature sensors, injectors and cold start injector timers. none of them made any difference except the temperature sensor which did make the car run alot better on occassions.

i have just checked the ECU for fault codes and from what I can make of it its only coming up with #1 - which apparently means everything is normal...yea right :lol:
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Postby l1ttle_d3vil » Thu Oct 13, 2005 8:45 pm

okay, after doing some skids and the car getting a bit warmer I ran it in diagnostics mode again and came up with:

#7 - Throttle position sensor signal; Open or short circuit in throttle position sensor signal circuit.

#9 - Speed sensor indicates 0 km/h for several seconds when engine rpm is above 2,300 or 2,800 and manifold pressure is higher than specified.

these are the only two I got. I may have found a vacuum leak in my manifold, fixed it up but it doesn't seem to have made a lot of difference. I've also tested the TPS every way possible and it all seems fine. what am I missing for there to be a short circuit in it??? or despite all the correct ohmes and volts going in/out of the TPS, could it still be faulty?
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