NA Power coming - nearly there 56k beware !(go to last page)

[BZR4AGE]

Hi all, i have scheduled to have my head completely upgraded early Feb. (done a bit of saving) the upgrades (already purchased) are -(cams, camshaft, valve springs, high comp forged pistons, head gasket) But before i get too excited - i want to be safe. (by the way, this is for blacktop 20V)

I am planning to buy a ECU. Should i get Link Plus, or Microtech, or what would you guys recommend. I know Link LEM is $1000 on trademe, what about a Link Plus?

2) I want the engine to be safe after throwing so much money to it, what block should i use (since the blacktop isn't that strong). Should i change it with Silvertop block or even a GZE, or just buy new conrods for $1200? and ofcoz i will use ARP rodbolts.

3) just out of interest - how hard it is to convert super strut to non-superstrut ( i know i shuold do a search - but in a hurry to go to uni now). Like the approximate cost.

Thanks a lot guys.

[EVLGTZ]

in regards to 1) pretty a Link LEM is less than $1k brand new

[BZR4AGE]

yay. i know they are less then 1k. but will the link LEM be right for my application. From the suppliers of my head upgrade, they recommend something that can adjust the ignition and also fuel maps. If Link LEM is good, i will probably buy that instead of the Link Plus.

What i am trying to find out is, with the extra money i am paying for Link Plus, will there be a big difference in my application

Cheers for the reply anyways

[Brick]

For q. 2, The 4agze head is 16v, so i think the cams/camshafts will be 20v ones and will be different?
Is this correct? someone with more knowledge

[Jebus]

For q. 2, The 4agze head is 16v, so i think the cams/camshafts will be 20v ones and will be different?
Is this correct? someone with more knowledge

Hes only asking about blocks, hes keeping the 20V head, so cams arent an issue.

[Brick]

opps but wud it matter if he changed the heads out of curiousity?
cos there are an extra 4valves

[Jebus]

Yep, there would be extra lobes on the 20V cams than 16V

[AceSniper]

Find a good set of 2nd hand silvertop rods and throw them in the blacktop block with arp rod bolts and good bearings.
what brand and spec's are the items you have already brought?
a link plus should keep you happy


super strut... goes along the lines of new shocks, A arms, sway bar, hubs, brakes, dono if they bolt right upto the same x member But I think they do, afew other people on here know more about it.

[BZR4AGE]

all the items except head gasket is TODA, including flywheel. Thanks guys for the advice. but like ace sniper says, LinkPlus should keep me happy, but will Link LEM also make me happy, becoz if link LEM will do the trick, i may as well save the couple of hundred on dyno tuning.

[BZR4AGE]

Here is what it is:
1) 11.8 compression 82mm forged piston kit
2) 272 intake 9mm camshaft
3) 264 exhaust 9mm camshaft
4) uprated valve springs
5) In and Ex Cam gears

[ATAl]

I thought link ecus could not currently handle continous vvt - which is what the black top vvt is.
Link only handles on or off vvt - like silver top vvt.

Someone correct me if i'm wrong.

Also blacktop block is same / close enough to silver top and gze, the weak point is the conrods.

[BZR4AGE]

with these cams shaft and cam gear, VVT will be disable anyway, as you cannot run VVT with these cams. so that will not be an issue.

[AceSniper]

Blacktop vvt is the same as silvertop vvt, same "on" or "off"
and yea with cams an adjustable pullys vvt is disabled, needa sort myself out some pullys for mine

[RedMist]

I am planning to buy a ECU. Should i get Link Plus, or Microtech, or what would you guys recommend. I know Link LEM is $1000 on trademe, what about a Link Plus?

2) I want the engine to be safe after throwing so much money to it, what block should i use (since the blacktop isn't that strong). Should i change it with Silvertop block or even a GZE, or just buy new conrods for $1200? and ofcoz i will use ARP rodbolts.

3) just out of interest - how hard it is to convert super strut to non-superstrut ( i know i shuold do a search - but in a hurry to go to uni now). Like the approximate cost.

Thanks a lot guys.

The link and the link plus are very similar in basic function. However AC idle up, boost control, launch control and a host of other features are only available on the plus. Checkout Links website www.link-electro.co.nz for full details. If you need any of the plus features... then you need a plus.

2. Blocks are identical. Its the conrods that are weak.

3. Not a clue.

If you are going for serious output or RPM you may wish to get yourself a set of second hand Formula Atlantic Carillo rods. Watch any headwork on the blacktop, its a difficult head to work with and because they have a reasonably large port to begin with they only need velocity work. Make sure the work done by a reputable flow bench engineer that has worked with a blacktop before (or be prepared to sacrifice a head)

[BZR4AGE]

hey redmist thanks for the Detail advice.

basically, from link Plus, according to you, one thing that worrys me is AC idle up. Does this mean, if i dun use link plus i can't have aircon on?? HAHAHAH, i like my aircon for "driving in and out" coz my car is black - it absorb HEAT like hell!! (i know i know..i shd be building a race car with my stuff (and poeple have warn my car will be slow at starting coz low end torque wll be less), so i should ditch the AC, but my goal was just to be a cross between street car and track car, tht can kick B16C's butts.)

And yes, i think i should spend some money on the atlantic rods.. Shd start saving again. LOL.

about the head work. I am someone had adivce me to go to A1 Turbo in North Shore. Becoz i live in Auckland. People say they are good, and familiar with the 20V. http://www.a1turbos.co.nz/. What do you think?

[Mr Revhead]

you only need atlantic rods if your planning on excedding 9500ish rpms.
and if you are building the engine for that, itll be absolute crap on the road

[AceSniper]

silvertop rods will be fine if you pushing to about 9000 ish redline

[CozmoNz]

very crap... but very cool at the same time

[BZR4AGE]

thanks guys for the advice. I was never planning to go more than 9000 coz want to 'preserve' the engine. ahhaha. then i guess silvertop rods are the answers!!! thx!

I've compared my kit with kelford's. and they have kits for medium and high rev range, and their duration is much higher than mine, so i think my kit wouldn't be too bad as well for the road. The kit was put together by TODA, they said this combination will be good for road, while giving me powergains.

[AceSniper]

the cams will give you a good range, s-top rods will do the job maybe balance them b4 they go in