Question for auto sparkys

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Question for auto sparkys

Postby Adamal » Mon Nov 07, 2005 12:49 am

Well I was driving home tonight and my car started loosing electrical power. Lights were dimming, so was the dash etc. Battery light AND oil level low light came on.

Pulled over and it died. Got a jump from some friendly people and was on my merry way.

Then the same thing happens, 30 min walk from home. I was thinking battery at this point, but also possibly the alternator not generating anything.

So I walk home, swearing a lot, and pick up the AW11 which has a new battery in it. I drive it back to the SW20 and put it in that.
Crank it over and comes up fine.

One thing I noticed is that the volt meter would rise when I revved it.

I got back and noticed Mr Revhead was on so started pestering him (And if you read this, the cheque isn't going through, reported non-existant domain name. sw20srule.aw11suck.com works though ;) ).
He suggested that it could be the voltage regulator on the alternator.
He mentioned that he's not that great with sparky stuff, so I'll take his word for it.
However, is there anyone here who can help me clarify where the problem lies?
Motorsport is like sex. You could take it to track and have a long, enjoyable session, or you could take it to the strip and get it over with in less than 20 seconds.
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Postby Mr.Phreak » Mon Nov 07, 2005 8:30 am

Could be a dodgy earth
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Postby Mr Revhead » Mon Nov 07, 2005 9:36 am

He mentioned that he's not that great with sparky stuff


not great being an understatement! :lol:
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Postby Punter » Mon Nov 07, 2005 11:10 am

Yea sounds like your alternator's not charging check the voltage accross the battery when the engines running
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Postby pervert » Mon Nov 07, 2005 11:15 am

I'd say if you change the alternator, all will be fine... 8)
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Postby Adamal » Mon Nov 07, 2005 12:25 pm

I was thinking the alternator too, but the meter wouldn't jump up when I rev it if the alternator wasn't working, right?
Motorsport is like sex. You could take it to track and have a long, enjoyable session, or you could take it to the strip and get it over with in less than 20 seconds.
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Postby pervert » Mon Nov 07, 2005 12:34 pm

Adamal wrote:I was thinking the alternator too, but the meter wouldn't jump up when I rev it if the alternator wasn't working, right?


Hmmm, I'd say it would depending on the fault...but I'm basing my opinion on my friends Celica which did the exact same thing, I replaced the alternator, and it's never had an issue since... 8)
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Postby Mr Revhead » Mon Nov 07, 2005 12:40 pm

on most toyotas the regulator is part of/on the alternator.
but a 2nd hand alt can be cheaper than getting a sparky to fix/replace the regulator
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Postby Lanius » Mon Nov 07, 2005 12:43 pm

Yeh thats what happened to the 3S in my Celica. Alternator was stuffed.
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Postby Punter » Mon Nov 07, 2005 1:16 pm

just check the voltage over the battery when running
11.5~12.5 = fcut alternator
13.5~14.5 = Happy alternator
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Postby pervert » Mon Nov 07, 2005 1:20 pm

Second hand alternator was $80 when I got it, and that was from the dearest guy in town because only he was open on a Saturday... 8)
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Postby Adamal » Mon Nov 07, 2005 3:45 pm

Punter wrote:just check the voltage over the battery when running
11.5~12.5 = fcut alternator
13.5~14.5 = Happy alternator


Yup, just did that and falls into the 'fcut' catagory :(
Motorsport is like sex. You could take it to track and have a long, enjoyable session, or you could take it to the strip and get it over with in less than 20 seconds.
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Postby RomanV » Mon Nov 07, 2005 4:03 pm

That SW20 has been nothing but trouble.
I think you should sell it and spend the money on making the AW11 totally awesome(er). :P
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Postby Mr Revhead » Mon Nov 07, 2005 4:05 pm

good call!!
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Postby Adamal » Mon Nov 07, 2005 4:10 pm

You're off my Christmas card list, Dave :P
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Postby Alex B » Mon Nov 07, 2005 4:51 pm

Contary to what every one else is saying that kinda sounds like a dodgy earth because otherwise the car would just die when you d/c the battery from the other car when you jumped it. And the alinator will only chage at 14.4v at over idle wont it (like 2500 rev and over) hmm i could be toatly wrong but just a thought.
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Postby Adamal » Mon Nov 07, 2005 5:01 pm

Yea, when I tested it, revved it right up to about 6000RPM and it only made 12.85v :(
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Postby pervert » Mon Nov 07, 2005 5:17 pm

pyro_sniper2002 wrote:car would just die when you d/c the battery from the other car when you jumped it.


You'd think so, but that wasn't the case when it happened to me, after we jumped it again, it lasted a good 3 or 4 hours of driving before it died for good... 8)
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Postby Adamal » Mon Nov 07, 2005 5:41 pm

Yes, well your engine is the death defying 4K :D

Anyway, rather interesting.

I jacked the car up (Alternator has to be accessed from underneath. Bastard) to check the earth.

Its on properly and then wondered if maybe the clipon plug had dirty contacts inside or something.
I unplugged it and there was something in it alright. I had a bit of water pour on my face.
Plugged it back in and started it, went to the battery and tested the voltage. About 12.12v.
Decided to take it for a drive, see if the battery charged up a bit. I noticed the voltmeter in the car was a lot stronger after driving for a bit.
Got home, gave it another test. 13.75v! I think I may have solved it.

In my infinate wisdom however, I didn't think at the time to give it a shot of 5.56 to get rid of the moisture :roll:
Waiting for stuff to cool down before I go and jack it up again.

Does that sound like it could be fixed or that I tested it on a lucky working moment?
Motorsport is like sex. You could take it to track and have a long, enjoyable session, or you could take it to the strip and get it over with in less than 20 seconds.
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Postby pervert » Mon Nov 07, 2005 8:00 pm

Adamal wrote:Yes, well your engine is the death defying 4K


:lol:

No no, the incident I am talking about happened when dealing my my friend's 3SGE Celica, hence why I thought I could be some help... 8)
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