auxilary bypass valve - "test results"

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auxilary bypass valve - "test results"

Postby l1ttle_d3vil » Mon Nov 21, 2005 7:38 pm

ok I've set the valve up now with the hoses blocked off and no waterlines running to it and started the car up and this is what happens.

WHEN COLD
    * Idles at 1750 to 2000rpm
    * With the air port on the throttle body blocked off it idles at 1000rpm or stalls.

WHEN HOT
    * The revs start to fluctuate between 1450 to 2350rpm randomly once warm (car still drives fine through). If I unplugged the vacuum hose from the MAP sensor or unplug the MAP sensor from the loom the revs hold perfectly steady at 1400rpm.
    * With the air port blocked off the idles will sit steady at 1500rpm [with MAP sensor plugged in etc).[/list]


so from the looks of this, it idles fine while cold now that I have the bypass valve set up, but when it warms it runs like sh*t unless I block it off, so the next step will be to set up the waterlines right?

just to clear it up properly, someone please tell me what revs I should have when? (cold, port open and blocked then hot with the port open and blocked). or are my revs all as they should be?

thanks for your help guys
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Re: auxilary bypass valve - "test results"

Postby Crucible » Mon Nov 21, 2005 9:11 pm

so from the looks of this, it idles fine while cold now that I have the bypass valve set up, but when it warms it runs like sh*t unless I block it off, so the next step will be to set up the waterlines right?


Once youve got coolant flow over the valve (with no air locks) the revs will drop back to normal. Without the coolant running through, It will be wide open giving the same result as a Big vacuum leak or Unmetered Air. (Revs pulsing etc)

just to clear it up properly, someone please tell me what revs I should have when? (cold, port open and blocked then hot with the port open and blocked). or are my revs all as they should be?


Cold - 1000 - 1200 rpm +/-
Op/Temp - 800 - 900 rpm +/- (Not factory settings only approx)
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Postby l1ttle_d3vil » Mon Nov 21, 2005 10:01 pm

so once it's setup properly I just need to adjust the idle speed screw to get the revs to where they are meant to be? is there any special way to do that? or is it just start the car and turn the screw whichever way?

cheers
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Postby Crucible » Tue Nov 22, 2005 10:32 pm

l1ttle_d3vil wrote:so once it's setup properly I just need to adjust the idle speed screw to get the revs to where they are meant to be? is there any special way to do that? or is it just start the car and turn the screw whichever way?

cheers


Just set it once its up to op/temp, You cant set cold because the Cold start Valve is open. Screw it in clockwise until it stops, Back it off untill it idles at approx 8 - 900 rpm.

Considering everything else is ok, It sould Idle normally.

TNT
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Postby l1ttle_d3vil » Wed Nov 23, 2005 6:43 pm

i connected my waterlines up lastnight but once the car is warmed up the revs still stay the same. when I cover up the air port in the throttle body the revs drop down to a standard idle - obviously the valve is stuffed.

does it matter which hose I put the waterlines to? i've connected it up so the water comes into the pipe on the valve, and out of the pipe on the manifold. is that the right way round?
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Postby Crucible » Wed Nov 23, 2005 7:58 pm

l1ttle_d3vil wrote:i connected my waterlines up lastnight but once the car is warmed up the revs still stay the same. when I cover up the air port in the throttle body the revs drop down to a standard idle - obviously the valve is stuffed.

does it matter which hose I put the waterlines to? i've connected it up so the water comes into the pipe on the valve, and out of the pipe on the manifold. is that the right way round?


Just make sure there is coolant flow through the valve, If both hoses are hot it would indicate its flowing through, When you top the coolant level up in the radiator take off one of the hoses to the valve until coolant spills out, (Just to allow trapped air to escape and to make sure you have no air locks around that area). If this is ok then the valve is faulty.

It would probley pay to hook the coolant lines up as factory, but if both hoses are hot when at op temp then it should be fine, as that indicates flow.

hope this helps some :lol:

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