T3/4 spool time?

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Postby Silent Knight » Wed Dec 21, 2005 1:55 pm

All_Fours wrote:you sure? I thought t3/t4 meant t3 turbine side and t4 compressor side, meaning you'd have a t3 exhaust flange


That would be basically what I meant (My understanding of it aswell)....Sorry I might have worded it a tad wrong.
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Postby barryogen » Wed Dec 21, 2005 2:08 pm

Ako wrote:My city turbo didnt get any useful boost till 4500rpm, then it hit well enough you'd change lanes accidentally and light up in 3rd. Why people persevere with peaky FWD turbos totally baffles me.


because they're a hell of a lot of fun to drive?
/me gets back into my peaky FF and heads home.
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Postby Ako » Wed Dec 21, 2005 2:18 pm

T3 flange = smallish

T4 flange = fit your head in it

T3/4 = The turbo I have half a dozen munters ask me about every week. "My mate has a t3/4 on his skyline and it goes real hard, can I get one from you guys?"

"Sure, which one is it"

"Blank look of confusion on munters face"

:evil:


Barryogen - I should clarify. Peaky OVERPOWERED FWD's :lol: Who am I kidding, I just dislike FWDs in general.

Back on the topic... A td04 or something will cost you all of $200. Going for a TD flange means you can go up in size very gradually, and cheaply - start off with say an 11B, then move up to a 13G, then a 14B td05.. Then an evo 16G... Fun times for all :lol:
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Postby flygt4 » Wed Dec 21, 2005 6:21 pm

Ako -- because mitsi owners dont often expect peaky overpowered frontwheel drives to have any decent poke :wink:

t3/4 are a good turbo for the application as there is so many different combinations available you can keep trying different ones without changing manifolds or flanges every time. if you put any decent sized turbo on a 4age dont expect too much in the way of boost below 4000rpm , usually between 4500-5000.

oh and dont bother comparing vtec turbos to 4age turbos as most vtec turbos still run high factory compression , so make silly power on low boost and spool a turbo happily,but are somewhat less reliable..
most 4agte's use a gze bottom end at 8/8.9:1 compression,which are pretty hard to destory but compromise a lot of response. :(
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Postby Caveman » Wed Dec 21, 2005 6:52 pm

td05 looks like a size a lot of people use.

My mates installing one on his 4agte, hes using the late ae101 gze motor. Apparently there $700 brand new from mr mitsubishi, 16G comp trim.

Im using a vf10, but then again my goals are completely different. Im using 10:1 comp on low boost. I want good response, drivability and just over 200HP :D It is my daily driver after all 8)
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Postby Stu- » Wed Dec 21, 2005 7:00 pm

Old setup
8.0:1 ze, HT18/RB20 Housing, 18psi by 3800rpm

New setup
8.0:1 ze, .60 To4e, 360 thrust kit yadda yadda, 0.48 T3 Housing, 16-18psi at 4400rpm
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Postby Bazda » Wed Dec 21, 2005 8:19 pm

All_Fours wrote:you sure? I thought t3/t4 meant t3 turbine side and t4 compressor side, meaning you'd have a t3 exhaust flange


yep thats right, some people wven do it the other way around :?
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Postby JamesM » Wed Dec 21, 2005 10:50 pm

8.0:1 ze, HT18/RB20 Housing, 22psi by 4500rpm
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Postby Bazda » Wed Dec 21, 2005 11:14 pm

ae-86_lad wrote:8.0:1 ze, HT18/RB20 Housing, 22psi by 4500rpm


+ very hot intake charge temps as we found out on my mates car on 18psi with that turbo
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Postby Crucible » Wed Dec 21, 2005 11:41 pm

Ako wrote:T3 flange = smallish
T4 flange = fit your head in it

Back on the topic... A td04 or something will cost you all of $200. Going for a TD flange means you can go up in size very gradually, and cheaply - start off with say an 11B, then move up to a 13G, then a 14B td05.. Then an evo 16G... Fun times for all :lol:


Ok thanks guys - I wanted a manifold which I could upgrade on so a T3 Flanged Ex Manifold is the puppy then... Cool :lol:

What wheel/Housing combo etc would be best for my application then?
Say if I were to use Bazdas T3/4 specs, on a 4>1 manifold with my later (higher comp) GZE I should see full boost a bit earlier than 4500rpm...

If I get a big kick in the pants on boost and a lots of topend power I could live with that Lag :lol:

And from what Ive observed Bazdas AE92 was no Slug :lol:

Thanks for the good info :lol: :lol:

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Postby Drifter4ag » Thu Dec 22, 2005 8:32 am

hey james ...what intake temp do you have at 22psi ? you should have been logging that ? ...
Bazda when you say very hot intake temps what do you call hot ?
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Postby JamesM » Thu Dec 22, 2005 8:42 am

it was no higher than the temps at 18psi for me. im not exactly sure what the temps were exactly but it wasnt going any higher than the temps just driving aroudn normally. (cause i had not used that easyterm program for MS the temps were like about 10deg higher than normally) i think the temps were around 40deg so that would be like 30 deg. with evo6 intercooler and that was back in the winter.
not sure if my car will ever be going again like that or goign at all
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Postby Bazda » Thu Dec 22, 2005 9:29 pm

well my mate andy just got his car wound up to 18psi with a link ecu. The intake gets extremly hot, mine never got that hot on 18psi on a 28deg day.

fred is about to put one on his car so I'll see hoat that goes

also anyone got a rb20 exhaust housing for sale to fit the ht18??
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Postby Drifter4ag » Fri Dec 23, 2005 8:53 am

Bazda .. damian fromA1 turbos is awesome for milling those housings out .. ive seen engineers try and rip through the housings ... not sure his number but check it out on whitepages.co.nz
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Postby Stu- » Fri Dec 23, 2005 2:01 pm

Yeah the trick is following the taper of the rear wheel. Have also seen many failed attempts by engineers...

I think I've got a rb20 housing kicking around.

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Postby Andy from the block » Mon Dec 26, 2005 10:24 am

Bazda wrote:well my mate andy just got his car wound up to 18psi with a link ecu. The intake gets extremly hot, mine never got that hot on 18psi on a 28deg day.

I took my car for a short boost and the intake manifold was very hot afterwards.
It would not be comfortable to place your hand on it for
more than a few seconds. However I also noticed the radiator fan
blows very very warm air straight towards my intercooler piping
and reflects this hot air to the surrounding area (which includes the
intake manifold). If the fan didnt blow hot air towards the piping and
manifold Iam sure it wouldnt be nearly as hot.
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Postby Drifter4ag » Mon Dec 26, 2005 10:46 am

andy from the block .. have you had that oin the dyno and what did it put out if so .. torque & kw ?
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Postby Andy from the block » Mon Dec 26, 2005 5:51 pm

Nah I havent had my car dynoed yet.
Iam in the states right now and wont be back until the end of feburary.
Boost is set at 1.3 bar (14.7 x 1.3 = 19.11psi) with a 8050rpm rev limit
by Damian at A1 turbos.
I was surprised when Damian told me the factory fuel pump was
fine in terms of supplying the 440cc injectors, even at 1.3 bar.
Im not sure what kind of power the car will make to be honest.
Anything over 180kw at the wheels and I will be happy.
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Postby Bazda » Mon Dec 26, 2005 6:36 pm

The air from the radiator fan wont be that hot. Its moving air and the air in the eng bay will be hotter if the fan wasnt moving it...

Also the fan should only come on when u stop the car not while its moving.

Mayeb your intercooler isnt cooling the charge enough
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Postby Andy from the block » Mon Dec 26, 2005 9:02 pm

Yeah. I touched the intake manifold after I let the car cool down for about
1 mintute. The air the radiator fan was blowing was like a hair dryer.
The air blowing out the radiator fan will be heated since it is drawn
past the hot radiator. If u get a hair dryer and aim it at a piece of
pipe for a few minutes it definately heats it up a fair bit, so im thinking
there may be a similar effect going on in my engine bay since
I got a different radiator setup/location than many 4agtes.
When I touched the intercooler pipe just affter the intercooler it wasnt
that warm at all..the intake manifold was many many times hotter.
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