Tips and techniques for running in recond engine. Pls.

[Jazza]

I'd fill it up with oil, take it around the block just once
Then come back, drain all oil, to get rid of the pre-lube and loose metal bits.
fill it up again, 500kms
drain oil, fill oil, another 500kms.

So thats 3 times to change it, from what ive heard, you do need to change it that often, although once again im no engine guru, so listen to the other guys

[k20eg]

well my race motor and all the race motors my engine builder has done get about an hour to 2 hours on alxe stands being run between idle and about 5000rpm (half of rev limit).. with the occasional quick rev out to about 6500-7000rpm.. going for a nice slow drive around the country side between 60-100kmh would probably do a similar thing really..
After that oil and filter change and off to the dyno and a life of being absolutely abused...
I use 10w-40 or a general crappy family car oil to run the motor in, also make sure you pull the plugs out and crank the motor for awhile to build oil pressure before you try to actually start the car..

[Stealer Of Souls]

So thats 3 times to change it, from what ive heard, you do need to change it that often, although once again im no engine guru, so listen to the other guys

Sorry. I thought one of the earlier posts said 50,100,500,1000... But no it just said 50,500,1000. So three also.
Anyways... Is this best practice? Good practice? or common practice?

It's like when on my old engine (before things started to go pear shaped) every few oil changes I would do what I term as the extreme clean method.
Drain old oil and replace with crappy family grade stuff. Add engine cleaner and follow guidelines on the bottle. Then drain the lot (pouring an extra litre of clean oil down the hole while I was at it), replace with nice oil and new filter. (I was even know to use a new filter for the cleaning run.)

[Caveman]

This might be obvious but drain the oil while its hot hot and take off the oil filter while draining.

[Stealer Of Souls]

This might be obvious but drain the oil while its hot hot and take off the oil filter while draining.

As fun as burning my hand is...
I do drain the oil while it's still hot anyway...
I'm really not sure what this comments is about... :S

[Caveman]

This might be obvious but drain the oil while its hot hot and take off the oil filter while draining.

As fun as burning my hand is...
I do drain the oil while it's still hot anyway...
I'm really not sure what this comments is about... :S

Some people are scared of hot oil, so drain it while its cold, and it leaves a lot of the shite in the engine.

[vvega]

the first old change -50km is the most important
this gets rid of ya asembly lobe and fine particulate

basically all you are running in is your rings,,,,
the first time you load your engine the bearings have seated

my run in method ......
take it for a fast midrange(revs) drive for the first 50 km's
then drive it like you stole it

v

[CaM]

"start off as you intend to continue"

best advice for running in I've ever heard. you compare new vehicles/engines that are driven in different ways. the one's that get the shit revved outta them will never pull. the one's that use the whole rev range, loaded up, but not thrashed un-necessarily = the win. 'tis especially true for large diesel engines....

[fivebob]

the one's that use the whole rev range, loaded up, but not thrashed un-necessarily = the win.

Define "loaded up", as that can have many definitions, some of them extremely bad for the engine.

'tis especially true for large diesel engines....

What, the ones that rev to a few hundred RPM, or those with the stratospheric redline of 1500rpm

[craigt]

I would recommend a non moly based engine assembly lube. I do a lot of race motors, and when you pull them down for a freshen up everything is coated in a fine coat of molybdenum disulphide, you just cant get rid of the stuff! If you dont use it then you dont have to do an oil change straight away. It can also clog up oil filters if used excessively causing the bypass valve to circulate unfiltered oil back through your engine.
Akane mentioned sandblasting of engines, I dont get blocks beadblasted at all. Seen a couple of very expensive reair jobs because of it. I get my stuff tanked with ALL the gallery plugs out.
My preferred method of running engines in is....
Use a non synthetic oil, crank the engine without the plugs in until oil pressure builds up ( I prime the oil pump on assembly, and fill the oil filter before fitting which helps ). Then start the engine, not letting it idle, reving between 1500rpm and about 5000rpm for about 5 min. Turn it off, check for leaks, check your levels, the drive up the nearest hill using up to 5500 rpm and a reasonable amount of load. Never had one come back yet!

[vvega]

sanblasting/beadblasting engine parts is just stupid
you can never be sure you have got it all out
and it only takes one grain or bead to completely $&#$% your nice new engine......i too have seen a few blowups from it

anyways outta here

v

[CAMB01]

Using a non moly based assembly lube is a good idea as it dissolves in engine oil.
Only one oil and filter change is necessary at 1000km.
What craigt had described as a run in process i would recommend.
Ive never had a problem with my engines after rebuilding them using a similar process but a bit harsher.

Well thats my 2 cents.

[vvega]

Only one oil and filter change is necessary at 1000km.
.

yeah nah sorry cant agree there
most of the shit is picked up very quickly

do you really think its worth it for the price of a filter and oil pack ??
its just cheap insurance

v

[Alex B]

Ment to use running in oil for the first 1000k's tho, correct???

[THA SHZ]

I use 10w-40 or a general crappy family car oil to run the motor in, also make sure you pull the plugs out and crank the motor for awhile to build oil pressure before you try to actually start the car..

agreed with this , use a crappy oil to seat the rings , and then dump after a short run , and change to better oil after tht

[4ageman]

when i got my engine rebuilt i got told to not labour the engine and drive it the way its alawys going to be driven. Oh and dont go for a drive where i was going to be sitting at 1 certain speed and rev range. Was also told to change the oil at 500km then after 1000km. It hasent given me any trouble yet. its been going for bout 14months.

[phrogmodz]

[quote="k20eg"]well my race motor and all the race motors my engine builder has done

gary?
who builds your engines?