GTZ CV JOINTS

[Norty]

Hey all, for about a year now i have been trying to get my CV's Sorted by a company called ADL. Well over a year on i now think it is finally resolved.

I have changed many things in the process, Engine Mounts, bearings etc.. and just wanted to post what happen mainly cause someone else might want to share if they have had the same issues and to basically dog a company i believe to be a pack of idiots.

I first got my CV's Replaced back at the end of 2003 these where both my outers at the time. ADL did the work and when i got it back they had not pressed my ABS rings to correctly, so my cars brake peddal would collapse when pressed, the car would stop however (THANK GOD) i took it back and was told "Oh your abs sensors are broken". However my mate told me the rings would of not been pressed on correctly, they finally agreed and foudn the rings to be 2mm out which was enough to cause the problem i was having. After about a month, the right side CV started clicking again then a few weeks later the left, i took it back and ADL replaced them again, Later on i decided to get the inners done (as well as the engine mounts etc.) also the clicking had returned, so wanted to make sure the inners where not rooting the outters. I got this done. the outers seemed ok and do did the left side inner, but the right hand side returned to clicking again, so i took it back and they said that "they where now doing me a favour" "YEAH RIGHT" and would have another look as it must be something i am doing. (I drive my car to and from work every day and dont do any burnouts etc..) they rang me and told me that something has broken and it must be cause my car is lowered (1inch BTW) or that my suspenision/springs must be worn (this stuff is all brand new) and the car has been lowered since i got the thing off the lot and never had any issues with the other CV's. THis is a picture of what was broken



anyway after talking to Toyota they told me that there was no way i would of been able to drive my car if that was the case and that people that done know what they are doing somethings break those bits when removing them, i hit ADL up about this and there response was that of a 12 year old boy "WELL YOU DID DRIVE ON IT" and toyota got it wrong.
So anyway cause they could not find the inner CV for my car they told me to get one from Japan for $1600 dollars. So i talked to a mate of mine who got his mates at Beatty's Driveshaft center to sort it for me which they did a custom rebuilding using a Inner CV from a mitsi which had the same spline as toyota for about $400 bucks and so far so good. The Beattys guy told me that the parts ADL used he would never go near and where sub standard brands... SO ADL SUCK DONT USE THEM unless you wanna spend $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ this whole event has personally cost me thousands now.

OH BTW it was MANUKAU ADL.

man that was long i hope i makes sense most likely not but anyone else had these issues?

[bad20v]

Ha ha ha!!!!

Dude, ive been in the same boat with those guys, same branch of ADL too!!!

I had my outer cv's replaced with some from ADL, they didn't do the labour on it thankfully, and they lasted about two weeks for the LH side and three weeks for the RH side. So it took it back to my workshop guys and they contacted ADL. The guys at ADL said to bring the car to them for inspection and replacement if needed. They said they were fine and weren't clicking at all.
So I picked it up and drove it around for a week longer when I was doing a three point turn and went to accelerate away and the LH side cv shattered into about 12 pieces, or thats how many pieces we picked up off the ground.
I got the car towed back to ADL and told them "Fix the F#@ken CV's or I'm Taking You C#@Ts to Court!!!..... and They Better Not F#@k Out Again!!!"

So they ended up replacing them with more heavy-duty items, which were the same price as the other ones but are more suited to my car with its LSD diff.

I heard through my mates at the workshop that they had got in a whole lot of cheap and nasty CV's a while ago and were just trying to selling them off at the same price as the proper ones.

So yeah, I don't think I will ever be dealing with that company and that branch especially again!!

[Norty]

WELL Maybe this post will turn into the DONT USE ADL Post.

THanks for the feedback good to know i am not alone

[Jebus]

They just made my driveshaft, hope its ok.

[aesc]

Hmm I recently got my inner CV reconditioned here in Christchurch and now whenever I turn either way (mostly right turn tho) there is a very loud clicking/knocking noise coming from what sounds like the middle/front of the car. Its only started when I got the inner CV done Its a damn pain in the arse as Ill have to take it back in and will be without my car again for a few days, trying to organise rides to and from work etc! So yeah norty I feel for you but glad to hear its all sorted now.

[Norty]

Well time will tell, i only got my car back yesterday.

I replaced my enginer mounts as if they are worn or broken they can cause insane strane on the CV's might pay to check that too but yeah i dont think people know how to work on these cars, expect for guys on this site.

[peas]

Drive Inn, Great North Road, New Lynn is where I got mine from. Very happy with them, knew what they were one about and did me a decent price $95 or thereabouts... loving the trade discounts .

[MRMATT]

I have worked for ADL now for 14 years (Thought I should be straight about this)

The supercharged Toyota's have caused some problems for us over the years. I have seen about four cage breakages like the one posted here with two different brand CV Joints. We carry three brands, but these are usually only available in a Chinese and a Japanese brand. I cant stress enough that NTN is the best brand when it comes to these cars. Unfortunatly NTN is OEM and extreamly expensive. The aftermarket CV Joints are well priced but are not as strong. So if you want the reliability of OEM dont pay $95 and expect to be as good as the $1600 shaft.

Why do the Bearing Cages break?

Some times it is due to the cage being over hardened, which causes it to be brittle. And combined with the extra power, and on hard lock when the CV is at its most stress, it just gives out.

Some times it is due to the shaft runing out of linear plunge. Usually when a car is lowered. Lowering a car changes the position of the inner roller set, in most cases forcing it towards the bottom of the inner joint housing. When this happens it is likely the inner roller set will bottom out at some stage, usually when suspension travel is at an extream (Judder bar, turning). This cases pressure to be placed on both cages, as these are the weakest link in the driveline they will normally break.

I am sorry to hear that you have had these problems, I will be speaking with my staff, and we will endevour to better comunicate the pros and cons of each brand that we have available to our customers.

[IH8TEC]

$1600, wtf, talk to warrick if you want one, no where near that expensive.

[Norty]

I have worked for ADL now for 14 years (Thought I should be straight about this)

The supercharged Toyota's have caused some problems for us over the years. I have seen about four cage breakages like the one posted here with two different brand CV Joints. We carry three brands, but these are usually only available in a Chinese and a Japanese brand. I cant stress enough that NTN is the best brand when it comes to these cars. Unfortunatly NTN is OEM and extreamly expensive. The aftermarket CV Joints are well priced but are not as strong. So if you want the reliability of OEM dont pay $95 and expect to be as good as the $1600 shaft.

Why do the Bearing Cages break?

Some times it is due to the cage being over hardened, which causes it to be brittle. And combined with the extra power, and on hard lock when the CV is at its most stress, it just gives out.

Some times it is due to the shaft runing out of linear plunge. Usually when a car is lowered. Lowering a car changes the position of the inner roller set, in most cases forcing it towards the bottom of the inner joint housing. When this happens it is likely the inner roller set will bottom out at some stage, usually when suspension travel is at an extream (Judder bar, turning). This cases pressure to be placed on both cages, as these are the weakest link in the driveline they will normally break.

I am sorry to hear that you have had these problems, I will be speaking with my staff, and we will endevour to better comunicate the pros and cons of each brand that we have available to our customers.

Thanks for that Post, I am a person of reason, but to piss arse around for a year on it was really not good, i do understand that these cars are hard to work on but would expect that when i do pay alot of money for something then to have experts on the job, Sounds like you should of been the one working on my car, what really pissed me off about the whole thing was the fact that i asked for both inners to be rebuilt and only 1 was rebuilt and the other only checked "i dont know which one was broken the rebuilt one or the "checked" one. But from where i am standing when i do pay some money to have these things tested then i feel that these issues should of been rasied and parts offered of better quality that could handle the job, i always opt for better parts cause i dont want to mess around like i have been with my car. Now i dont know whats involved in testing when you do these checks but when i read the bill it seems like the whole thing was checked and tested. However i am into day 4 with no issues yet, i will be happy once passed 1 month.

[MRMATT]

Any further problems, please contact me directly as i will sort out any issues. matt@adl.co.nz