T3 turbo off rb20det

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T3 turbo off rb20det

Postby trueno_20v » Sat Feb 11, 2006 5:33 pm

Do the standard T3 turbos off a rb20det HAVE to be water cooled on a silvertop 4age??
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Postby rotorchiki69 » Sat Feb 11, 2006 5:36 pm

they fall apart at any sign of boost ceramic seals or something die after 100,000 kays and no they dnt need to be water cooler
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Postby trueno_20v » Sat Feb 11, 2006 5:38 pm

Even though they are water cooled factory they dont have to be?
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Postby Bazda » Sat Feb 11, 2006 5:47 pm

they dotn have to be, just means u dont really need a turbo timer that bad.
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Postby rotorchiki69 » Sat Feb 11, 2006 6:44 pm

how does that work not saying u dont know ur shit bazda just if u shut ya car dowwn after boosting and the turbo is stil spinning with no oil pressure it would damage the seals?

and no u dont need the factory water cooling ive ran heaps of cars without them after doing turbo swaps oviously u just need to blank off the lines
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Postby RS13 » Sat Feb 11, 2006 6:59 pm

Hah, I've seen T3's run with no water lines.

rotorchiki69 wrote:they fall apart at any sign of boost ceramic seals or something die after 100,000 kays and no they dnt need to be water cooler


Actually, mine has done 167,000km now, and doesn't blow smoke nor make noise, but the car was regularly serviced and not thrashed. It is true the ceramic delaminates with overspeeding, but if you ran 1 bar max, and had a decent front mount intercooler, I don't think you'd ever have a problem, I've seen them do all kinds of revs on RB's with the joke-of-a-factory-intercooler, and they've handled it. With a smaller 1600 I don't see why you'd need to run huge boost anyway, you'd do the same job with less boost, but with more lag?

Turbo timers aren't really necessary imo, the idea is that you've got a turbo spinning at 10,000rpm, with a constant supply of oil, when you shut the motor off, the oil stops, but the turbo is still spinning. They only ever spin for 10-15 seconds max (that I've personally seen), so people who leave their timers on for 9 minutes are doing nothing but coking their turbo's up with low oil flow and excess heatsoak!

Same goes for people who buy cars off older folk, get about 3 redlines in and then wonder why the turbo shits itself.. when you drive around off boost all the time, same deal, low oil pressure and excessive heat cokes the turbo up something wicked (I've seen it happen time and time again, I know of a lady with a turbo Cordia, 150,000kms and on her 4th turbo!), not to mention that most older people do oil changes every 20,000km, that first redline with crap oil flow = blown turbo.
Last edited by RS13 on Sat Feb 11, 2006 7:12 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby rotorchiki69 » Sat Feb 11, 2006 7:06 pm

yea i have seen them last but then again ive seen them die prematurly for no apparent reason on factory skylines :? im sure someone said that they have a life expectancy of 100,000 kays ??? not sure lol probably another one of those myths but if its tru thats crazy
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Postby Bazda » Sat Feb 11, 2006 7:14 pm

rotorchiki69 wrote:how does that work not saying u dont know ur sh*t bazda just if u shut ya car dowwn after boosting and the turbo is stil spinning with no oil pressure it would damage the seals?

and no u dont need the factory water cooling ive ran heaps of cars without them after doing turbo swaps oviously u just need to blank off the lines


hehe calm down miss.
water cooling helps after a big hard boost so you dont get excessive heat into the turbo bearing and seal area, cooking the oil to black carbon, causing bearing/shaft failure and heavy oil consumption.
But giving the turbo a hard time, the water still wont cool it down enough but will cool it down much faster than without water if you do turbo time it.
Most people when they giv their car a hard boost dont shut it off just like that, u either drive up ur driveway/cool down lap, the water is jsut going to reduce the tiem needed to cool.
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Postby RS13 » Sat Feb 11, 2006 7:18 pm

Its' all down to the servicing! I've seen cars with regular oil changes do 400,000km on the original motor with nothing but clutches, and ignition bits, but have seen others.. worst I can recall, was an SR20 Bluebird, had done 120,000km, that had never been serviced since its' arrival in NZ, snap both cams, we opened the head, it was so blocked up, there was almost zero oil in the head..
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Postby Crucible » Sun Feb 12, 2006 8:27 pm

RS13 wrote: worst I can recall, was an SR20 Bluebird, had done 120,000km, that had never been serviced since its' arrival in NZ, snap both cams, we opened the head, it was so blocked up, there was almost zero oil in the head..


SR20's have the worst topend oiling system full stop, The oiling rail squirt holes block up all the time. Ive done sh*tloads of em, its just about mandatory to pull the rails out and enlarge the oiling holes. We try and push to run a flush through them before carrying out services etc...

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Postby Lloyd » Sun Feb 12, 2006 9:47 pm

Service them regularly and its not an issue, they actually flow a fair bit of oil but people dont service them when they should and you get bits of shite blocking them up and then eventually the cams and rockers get chewed out from lack of oil.
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Postby Adamal » Sun Feb 12, 2006 11:01 pm

True-No-Turbo wrote:
RS13 wrote: worst I can recall, was an SR20 Bluebird, had done 120,000km, that had never been serviced since its' arrival in NZ, snap both cams, we opened the head, it was so blocked up, there was almost zero oil in the head..


SR20's have the worst topend oiling system full stop, The oiling rail squirt holes block up all the time. Ive done sh*tloads of em, its just about mandatory to pull the rails out and enlarge the oiling holes. We try and push to run a flush through them before carrying out services etc...

TNT


Yep, I've seen the aftermath of an SR20 that hadn't had its oil changed after 14,000kms. The oil squirters got blocks and the cam lobes were as rough as sandpaper... Nasty
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