Intercooler + NA engine

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Intercooler + NA engine

Postby GTCRSHR » Mon Feb 13, 2006 4:25 pm

hopefully my title is a bit better this time :P

i was just wondering i have no idea if this is a good or even do able idea

but would there be any bennifit to a N/A engine to putting a intercooler on the front running piping into a cold air box/similar and having it for the cold air intake?


or is this just a silly idea with no benifits ? after seeing the ponsy ae101 intake pipe i am just looking for alternatives, and might just pipe it up so it comes out the front,

let me know what you think
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Postby RE20 » Mon Feb 13, 2006 4:28 pm

No, cause the air is already ambiant (sp?) , your not going to cool it any more, turbo on the other hand causes the air to become much hotter than ambiant therefore an intercooler cools it back down to ambiant (or much cooler than it was). Cold air box would be better.
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Postby AE91Sprinter » Mon Feb 13, 2006 4:32 pm

as above, cold air box

The intercooler is used BECAUSE boost is present. Compressing air creates heat, which is counter-intuitive to a performance increase.

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/turbo7.htm
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Postby Malcolm » Mon Feb 13, 2006 4:37 pm

although you could use ice to chill the inlet slightly for racing etc, I think you might find the restriction caused by the intercooler would cause you to lose more power than you would make by having inlet temps 10 degrees colder.
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Postby GTCRSHR » Mon Feb 13, 2006 5:03 pm

a wise man once said:: "the only silly question is one not asked"

all good so now i know :D
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Postby Ako » Mon Feb 13, 2006 5:05 pm

Oooh oooh

What about an icebox? Huh huh?


Or even this thingy now that I think about it...

http://www.nzperformance.co.nz/store/vi ... ct=CRY02AI

This wee beasty comes to mind - the figures on there are for a turbocharged setup, but you get the idea :D
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Postby RomanV » Mon Feb 13, 2006 5:29 pm

IIRC, a 10 degree drop in temperature = 1% more power.

So if you had a 160hp 4age, and you could drop the intake temperature 20 degrees, you'd only get an extra 3hp or so... which you'd lose anyway, caused by the extra restriction of the intake pipe.

And its a lot of work, for what would be 3hp with an optimistic estimate. :)
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Postby Ako » Mon Feb 13, 2006 5:33 pm

Hrmm.

Ok, scratch that idea then.


Had to be asked :lol:
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Postby RomanV » Mon Feb 13, 2006 5:39 pm

Nothing wrong with asking. 8)

I had a similar idea ages ago, involving hooking up the cold AC air into the intake.

But the power drain from the AC outweighs the benefits, and cant flow nearly enough air.

(For example, a 2 lite NA engine doing 3,000rpms consumes 3,000 litres of air per minute, assuming 100% volumetric efficiency. 8O )
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Postby Stealer Of Souls » Tue Feb 14, 2006 9:05 am

RomanV wrote:Nothing wrong with asking. 8)
I had a similar idea ages ago, involving ... 3,000rpms consumes 3,000 litres of air per minute, assuming 100% volumetric efficiency. 8O )
You're thinking to "Peak Continuous Power". Use this idea, but with a WAIC type setup. Cool a water reserve and then as required pump the refrigerated water into the cooler setup. Given that compared to a forced induction engine a NA requires a much lower mass of air you would probably get a reasonable run time with sub-ambient air for each "slug" of water you pumped into the cooler. And while you're using power just have a switch/relay setup to turn off a/c and alternator.
It's all about shifting the peak demands. Use the time when you cruise to "put power into a reserve" and then use that "power" when you need it.

Still not saying it's really worth the effort. But the proofs in the pudding really. Only way to be 100% sure is to try it...
So...

Build the intake with a removable section that you can bolt in a small air to air cooler setup (doesn't actually need to be setup like an air to air). Get a cooler to match, encase the fins with sheets of alloy to create a sealed enclosure, but remember to leave an inlet pipe. You now have a water to air heat exchanger. Fill with water. Freeze (remember to leave the fill cap off) or just refrigerate. Ultimately you want this thing down to around 2-3 degrees. 0-1 is better.
Now. Off to the dyno. This'll take at least three or four runs...
Once in normal street setup.
Once with alternator and a/c switched off.
Once with no alt or a/c and the frozen cooler bolted into intake.
It's actually best to repeat several times for repeatability.
But yeah. This would give you an idea if the idea has some long term merit.
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Postby Chickenman » Tue Feb 14, 2006 10:49 am

Put an iceblock in your pod filter.... at least if it doesn't work you got something to eat while you look for a turbo.
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Postby RomanV » Tue Feb 14, 2006 11:03 am

Stealer Of Souls wrote:You're thinking to "Peak Continuous Power". *snip*



But again, if the '10 degress lower inake temp = 1% more power' rule turns out to be correct, then it hardly seems worth the effort, especially on a low powered/small displacement engine.

Its a lot of work for >3 HP.
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Postby Stealer Of Souls » Tue Feb 14, 2006 12:18 pm

I'm not sure that its 10deg=1%... But you're right... Would be a lot of work for such little gain...
But there's no better proof than trying it. If you happened to have all the crap lying around I think it'd be worth a go.

It's like the little battery + big capacitor idea. I can say for a fact that it only half works, because I've tried it.

Or the Electric Water Pump. I can say they work really good and more than likely live up to their claims. Why? Because I have one.

Proof is always in trying.
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Postby Adamal » Tue Feb 14, 2006 1:15 pm

Bro, you'd get at LEAST an extra 50hp. Bling factor au ;)

Don't have anything to add than whats already been said. There are better ways to get more power for your money :)
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Postby SUBARUCONVERT » Tue Feb 14, 2006 6:47 pm

I remember reading about the aussie porshe cup cars, they picked up 1hp off every 3deg lower the intake temp was there new airbox dropped intake temps by 18deg and they picked up 6hp. Thats not far off 10deg for 1%
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Postby pc » Wed Feb 15, 2006 4:59 pm

I don't believe the 10degree 1% idea.
I drove across the canterbury plains once and it was a hot day (maybe 30degrees) When I got nearer Arthur's pass I dropped over a rise into a cold area (maybe 10 degrees) and the car took off on me... ok very much noticably faster.
I am also sure I can feel the difference between hot and cold days, and I'm sure I wouldn't feel 1% in the Butt dyno.
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Postby Stealer Of Souls » Thu Feb 16, 2006 8:53 am

That's part of my rationale too.
Car always feels plenty different between a hot day and a cold evening...
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Postby ENT1CE » Thu Feb 16, 2006 10:25 am

Gizzmo do a thermal intake gasket that bolts in between your manifold and you head to stop heat soak into your intake manifold not to sure what is available in the way of toyota's but lots of mitsi and honda and nissian ones are available toalk to your local gizmo agent or i could get a hold of them for you they drop intake temps. massively
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Postby Stealer Of Souls » Thu Feb 16, 2006 10:31 am

Yeah I've seen those. Good idea. Likewise I haven't seen any for toyotas, but I have seen plenty for hondas...

Just remember, if you're gonna use one to make sure that you have a decent cold air pickup. And insulating as much of the inlet tract and manifold against heat would be a must as well.
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