battery into boot... (no not another How do i do i)

[Infinite]

Ok,

So you have moved your battery to the boot, Put in some heavy duty starting cable's But... What about this "over loading" of the earth and these circle earth systems? u see for 500 bux... are u better to bring a cable back to the front of the car for a earth to? and then also bridge off that with a circle earth system?. Fell free to prove me wrong just wana get some opinions...

[Lloyd]

Move the battery, put the negative to a decent chassis earthing type place in the boot and it'll be fine

[Infinite]

so the hks circle earth system is bs?

[Alex B]

lol yes, $350 for a whole lota 8 gauge wire is BS.

[Infinite]

never said i was gona buy there sht im sure just making your own is going to do the job

[Si]

make sure you have very good earths all round

i recall docha's car with the battery in the boot.....
link went frappy then injectors went frappy and filled cyls with petrol...

[Stealer Of Souls]

Directly wired earths (or this circle thingy) will always give a better earth than direct to chassis....

But the difference is 5/8s of F all.

Renewing all the factory earths with new (and if poss bigger) cable in a very old car may help.
Making some additional links may improve earthing on old cars too. Like additional link between gearbox and engine, engine and chassis, lighting systems to battery, and head to block. But again, gains are small, costs are big. Really only good as back up protection against worn old cables...

[barryogen]

Directly wired earths (or this circle thingy) will always give a better earth than direct to chassis....

But the difference is 5/8s of F all.

Renewing all the factory earths with new (and if poss bigger) cable in a very old car may help.
Making some additional links may improve earthing on old cars too. Like additional link between gearbox and engine, engine and chassis, lighting systems to battery, and head to block. But again, gains are small, costs are big. Really only good as back up protection against worn old cables...

in my old car(Subaru Legacy) it had it, I asked the question, got the same answers you have, so removed it, then I got weird hissing in the stereo, and hesitation under heavy load, connected it back up, and it all went away... not sure if the Subby just had crappy wiring or ont, but it made a difference in that car.

[Stealer Of Souls]

At a guess...

Stereo hiss is an earth loop... Strange for the engine bay earths to affect the stereo. But not impossible. It could also have been that the engine bay earths were acting as a noise shield on the ignition system.

The hesitation at high load sounds like the ignition system didn't like the removal of the earth leads...

Well then. I guess there is more to this that first thought.
I would still say that, if the car goes fine an earth loop system would still do not a lot. But the only way to know for sure is to try...

[sergei]

The main problem whith battery in the boot, that the main earth wire (wich usually connects battery to gearbox) becomes dissconnected and the all current goes through smaller wire which is not really enough to supply starting current (starter will turn slower then usual).
A had real bad experience of smoking up the loom under the dash..
Make shure you connect the gearbox to different points on chassis with a couple of fat wires, and also connect head to chassis as well, that should take care of ignition RF noise.

[fangsport]

Sergei, why was the battery-> gearbox earth not reconnected to chassis??
as long as the battery (-) is bolted to a good clean piece of chassis and the main engine/gearbox-> chassis is the same, then there should be know dramas.

[sergei]

Generally the earth is connect to both chassis and battery, but the battery cable is much fatter then the one goes to chassis, as battery being moved the fat wire goes to nowhere (or in some cases it is conected to thin wire, thus not helping) and all current has to go through the thin wire and wiring loom grounds, which will divide load and even 50A going through wiring loom might smoke it up (especially considering the wires getting hotter and resistance being increased thus creating even more heat).

[Infinite]

i think im going to run 2x fat motha f cables back to the front one for + one - then setup a nice block for taken a few more earth's off... people spend more money on burn out tyres than what this cost's so why not least this aint use it once and throw it away

[Loudtoy]

Generally the earth is connect to both chassis and battery, but the battery cable is much fatter then the one goes to chassis, as battery being moved the fat wire goes to nowhere (or in some cases it is conected to thin wire, thus not helping) and all current has to go through the thin wire and wiring loom grounds, which will divide load and even 50A going through wiring loom might smoke it up (especially considering the wires getting hotter and resistance being increased thus creating even more heat).

Um so why didn't you just connect the old wire that went to that battery to the chassies in some way?? Thats what most people do and i'm guessing thats what fangsport is trying to get at here as well (why aren't you like most people)

[fangsport]

Um so why didn't you just connect the old wire that went to that battery to the chassies in some way?? Thats what most people do and i'm guessing thats what fangsport is trying to get at here as well (why aren't you like most people)

yip.

[sergei]

As I was not aware that the second ground was not fat enough.
I assumed that there should be at least 2 fat ground wires just in case, one going to battery and another going to chassis, but there was only 1 fat going to battery....

[Infinite]

because when u turn the headlights on full the dash dim's and relying on a simple grond that goes to the boot is like using a crapy little bolt that holds the ground wire onto a truck chassi *bang* and it wont be consistnt between the front of the car and the rear so why not do it correctly?

[fangsport]

Fangi wiring goes like this: battery in back seat cavity (rally car)
main + through master to starter and accesories via fuses and relays.
main - to chassis by battery. heavy earth chassis > block, light earth chassis > rocker cover also earthed via alternator. accessories earthed via dash, firewall etc.

for a road car:
Main + to fusable links/starter.
main earth to chassis,old battery earth to engine via chassis.

i'm sure a auto sparkie can confirm or deny, but i fail to see the need for 2 cables from battery to the former battery location.

[Malcolm]

definitely no need for running an earth back to the front of the car, the chassis can carry more current with less resistance than the wire you're gonna use (unless you are stealing it from buried high voltage cables)

[Si]

(unless you are stealing it from buried high voltage cables)

hey, it happens, south africa is well known for it......

rip up cables and sell em for scrap copper!