Monster custom WAI pre-rad

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Monster custom WAI pre-rad

Postby GT4 20 » Fri Mar 17, 2006 8:50 pm

After a few days in the planning, the ball was set rolling by employing the services of a local radiator manufacturer. A core was ordered from Oz and less than 2 weeks later it was ready..

The OE pre-rad which has seen better days.
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A few bolts to undo and the old one was removed.
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As can be seen below, quite a difference in size between the new twin and the old single core rads.
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New brackets were welded to the new unit which utilized the original mounting points.
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The design allowed the PAS and gearbox coolers to be fitted as per factory.
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The sharp eyed will have noticed the 2 brackets on the top of the rad.
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These are to facilitate the mounting of an engine oil cooler.
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Waiting for the crash bar and bumper to be re-fitted.
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All done. :D
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Went for a quick spin to ensure all was working well. Will recorded some measurements over the weekend after I've added some water wetter to the water and all the air has been bled from the system.
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Postby 10k 20v » Fri Mar 17, 2006 9:30 pm

What is the path of the water flow through your new cooler?
ie: does it come in through the bottom or the top?
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Postby GT4 20 » Fri Mar 17, 2006 9:58 pm

Do you know what, I'm not actually sure which way it flows. :oops: Never given it any thought. Will have to find out now :lol:
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Postby 10k 20v » Fri Mar 17, 2006 10:17 pm

its just your possibly heatin ghte water inside the radiator with the hot coolers in front of it. Especially since all the water must pass under all of them being a split tank on the end.

It will be good to see the measurements tho.
Last edited by 10k 20v on Fri Mar 17, 2006 10:46 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby 10k 20v » Fri Mar 17, 2006 10:45 pm

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see depending which way the water flows depends on how cold it gets in this setup, and as you can see it gets hot air no matter where it goes.

Just personally i would have mounted the engine oiler cooler to the side somewhere if theres room.
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Postby GT4 20 » Sat Mar 18, 2006 9:30 am

I see whare you're coming from, but I doubt that the above set-up would impare the efficiency of the pre-rad. The oil cooler is going to be controlled by a waxstat thermostat so will only allow oil to flow through it when it is above 80 deg C which won't be all the time. And, IMHO, keeping the oil cool, especially on a circuit, for eg, is far more important than gaing an extra deg C or 2 reduction in inlet temps which is why the cooler has been placed in direct airflow.
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Postby vvega » Sat Mar 18, 2006 6:52 pm

gary thats a very nice coller but you seam to have gone a little astray

a coller that big will preheat any air to the mainengine radiator and will impeed airflow to it as well
IMO your gunna overheat first time you go to a track for some serious drving

and as for you comments on the waxstat valve
when you engine needs it the most
i.e producing the most combustion heat and the oil is very hot it gunna open and heat dramatically teh water directly behind it

not to mention no though as to what ways the water flows ??
please

your opions are nice gary but not nessaryly correct

im not tring to bag you gary but gving the time and effort you have gone to with the rest of you engine this would seam a bit of a oversite /afterthought
not to mention those top engine oil mounting braket will fracture and snap off realively quickly
same with teh side ones having no gussets to spoort the 10/15kgs(full ove water and everthing bolted to it) its gunn be carringin over 1-2 g's of stock loading
turing that to 45kgs

remeber this is IMO
but givin that ive made a lot of alloy brakets and frames for aircraft i would consider myself to me well informed on that subject


v
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Postby BBBrad » Sat Mar 18, 2006 10:12 pm

Looks really good. You still got aircon in there too? Love to see the temp specs when its all go.
Good luck.
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Postby BBBrad » Sat Mar 18, 2006 10:21 pm

I just noticed one thing that maybe a prob. The origional rad has the pipe fitting at the top of the unit, also fitted with a bleeder. Since your new rad is so much taller I would think there maybe a chance of a air lock in the top of it(above the pipe fitting), and water only running through the bottom of the top half of the rad. May have to get a bleeder fitted to the very top or the rad to help fill it completely?
I hope that makes sense?
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Postby Mr Revhead » Sat Mar 18, 2006 11:43 pm

when i installed the rad for my w2a in the aw11 i put it down low in front of the radiator. theres not alot of room for air to enter in the front of those. i was worried about overheating..... i noticed no change.

the question would be in this case:
1 is that w2a rad enough of an impedence to cause problems with the engine radiator.

and 2 will there be enough heat transfer from the air thats gone through the engine cooler to adversly affect the temperature of either radiator.

for the first question, i think that would depned on on how effieciant the stock system is. if its border line like the ln130 surfs then there could be issues.
if theres heaps of extra cooling capacitly like my aw11 (iv NEVER had the fans going or the needle go over half) then i think itll be ok.

as for question 2, hot goes in the top and cold out the bottom, so the oil cooler is in the hot part of the engine rad, then theres the issue of how much heat can the air from the cooler pass on to the radiator.
my opinion is not much.

sounded good in my head...... thoughts? questions? laughter?
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Postby Akane » Sun Mar 19, 2006 5:07 am

vvega wrote:your opions are nice gary but not nessaryly correct


Dude...... I was hoping nobody will say anything........... rich guys need to make some mistakes too!

But since you've said it already......

The exchanger and the radiator is in a staggered setup for this very reason, they're very far apart and the exchanger is lower, so the radiator will get some clean cold air at least at the top (If that's at all possible).
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Postby vvega » Sun Mar 19, 2006 8:16 am

i hope your meaning the stck setup

v:D
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Postby Akane » Sun Mar 19, 2006 9:01 am

vvega wrote:i hope your meaning the stck setup

v:D


Yes, I was meaning the factory setup, you can see how the heat exchanger is only half height and very far apart.

Also a note is that when you use your aircon, at least 1 of the 2 fans will turn on automatically, to aid cooling.

Gary better pray to his lucky stars that he won't overheat too much if one day he does manage to produce big hp numbers.
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Postby no_8wire » Sun Mar 19, 2006 10:07 am

Mr Revhead wrote:if theres heaps of extra cooling capacitly like my aw11 (iv NEVER had the fans going or the needle go over half) then i think itll be ok.

Yeah but AW11s have like 12 or 13L of coolent in them... 8)
Makes it hard car to over heat... :D
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Postby Mr Revhead » Sun Mar 19, 2006 10:34 am

yes thats true.


what happens when you stick a huge FMIC in say an evo or wrx like you see every 5 mins?
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Postby GT4 20 » Sun Mar 19, 2006 10:51 am

Thanks for the input and concern. :D
Stock rad was replaced with a huge Koyo unit a while back so I'm not concerened about cooling for the engine. I've done a few ks with this in place now and the temp gauge has budged one iota.
If, like has been said above, the oil cooler does cause an increase in coolant temps, then I will have to look at repositioning it and then everyone can say "We told you so!" :wink: . Until then, I'll see how things go.
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Postby vvega » Sun Mar 19, 2006 11:06 am

i doubt you will se any issues till you atually get to give it 100% for a sustaned time
driving on the road wont show you anything
just out of intrest what qualifies you to make a comment like im not concerned about cooling
have you done thermodynamics at uni like some of us have ??
or have you just throw money at it and desided thats fine

do you know why many of the rally cars have v intercollers and rads?? because there intercoolers were making there cars overheat so bu v mounting both get a good supply of air

your silly to ignore such a well documented issue
and your fix of a bigger rad

THAT NOT THE PROBLEM
the problem is youve blocked at the dam air off

money dosent make you smart or clever in fact it makes most people ponpus and stupid
and money wont fix outright stupidity
you need to sit down and think about it


v
Last edited by vvega on Sun Mar 19, 2006 11:18 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby Akane » Sun Mar 19, 2006 11:13 am

Mr Revhead wrote:what happens when you stick a huge FMIC in say an evo or wrx like you see every 5 mins?


A friend of mine with S13 has a geniune HKS drag FMIC (600x300x100 thick), and there's a 100+mm gap between the radiator and intercooler, not to mention it still leaves about 150mm of the radiator exposed (top part), oh, the belt driven radiator fan would've helped? This is a Geniune item for S14, but I wouldn't think the theory behind it have much difference given the swap-ability of Nissan Silvias. (also his radiator is a S14 which is almost a bolt on item for S13).
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Postby vvega » Sun Mar 19, 2006 11:21 am

Mr Revhead wrote:yes thats true.


what happens when you stick a huge FMIC in say an evo or wrx like you see every 5 mins?


um under bonnet temps go up
and the most action most of those cars see is light to ligh and teh ocasional donut

hardly a race speced job

look at the stock ones
they should give you some idea
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Postby Elmo » Sun Mar 19, 2006 11:40 am

vvega wrote:have you done thermodynamics at uni like some of us have ??


Wayne, are you implying that you have spent some time at uni?

You obviously didnt study english.


vvega wrote: will se any issues till you atually get to give it 100% for a sustaned time


vvega wrote: see is light to ligh and teh ocasional
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