Springs + Oil Leak

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Springs + Oil Leak

Postby TruenoBZG » Mon Mar 20, 2006 5:41 pm

Two questions, thought I'd ask them in the same post:

1. I'm going to buy some Jamex lowering springs for my 1996 Trueno BZG, non-superstrut (it doesnt say superstrut anywhere on the car so I'm assuming this)

Is this a difficult task (technically...and physically) to carry out by myself? Ive seen and helped out with changing springs (from chopped to legal) on a Starlet before, and have a fair idea how to change them, just dont want to get caught out with anything 'minor' but very important.

Could anyone give me a little step by step for it?

2. Ive noticed a lot of oil accumulating around my sump and below the plug, and also above it - there were a few drips on the pavement (only a few) when I had a look this afternoon - im worried, is there something I need to change? Gasket or seal wise? I did the filter myself - tightened it up nicely... thats the only thing I can think of (and the plug itself of course)
I really dont want to overtighten anything! :cry:

Thanks for replies;
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Postby peas » Mon Mar 20, 2006 6:01 pm

The job is easy... I have just done my AE92 Levin last weekend. An extra pair of hands is probably the best thing you can have when putting the new springs in as you don't need to compress them with compressors... just your own weight is more than enough to get the top nut on. Have some brake fluid on hand if you need to disconnect the brake lines to get the strut out. Other things to look at are the front top strut mounts... these have bearings in them that do wear and the shocks themselves. I put in KYB's and Jamex with new upper mounts.

The oil naturally accumulates at the sump... its at the bottom of the engine so logically anything above that could be leaking. Did you use a new sump plug washer?
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Postby Caveman » Mon Mar 20, 2006 6:54 pm

You may need spring clamps for the front or you might find bits of top hat flying around the workshop 8O The replacements should just sit there without any force.

Its pretty piss easy really, just take the struts out, rattle the big nut off the top of the shock and replace springs.
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Postby TruenoBZG » Mon Mar 20, 2006 7:07 pm

Cheers for that peas - sounds good, however I didnt use a new sump plug washer - is this a good idea?

1998 - tophat? what do you mean by that dude?

so the hardest thing is compressing the springs - which you dont need to do anyway, right?

sounds easy... :?
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Postby Caveman » Mon Mar 20, 2006 7:13 pm

TruenoBZG wrote:Cheers for that peas - sounds good, however I didnt use a new sump plug washer - is this a good idea?

1998 - tophat? what do you mean by that dude?

so the hardest thing is compressing the springs - which you dont need to do anyway, right?

sounds easy... :?

http://forums.toyspeed.org.nz/viewtopic.php?t=43654&highlight=bump%2A

This is a rear ae92 strut. The bit at the top is the tophat. If you undo the nut holding it on without clamping the springs it could fly out 8) Just make sure you clamp them or something, the clamps should be cheap anyway
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Postby TruenoBZG » Mon Mar 20, 2006 7:20 pm

what about tightening all bolts to torque values? I dont have a torque wrench....


cheers!
Last edited by TruenoBZG on Mon Mar 20, 2006 7:39 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby TruenoBZG » Mon Mar 20, 2006 7:36 pm

http://www.overboost.com/story.asp?id=266

found this good step by step if anyone else wants advice... mind you its for a Honda but i suppose similar theory will apply.
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Postby Ae92typeX » Mon Mar 20, 2006 7:39 pm

TruenoBZG wrote:ah cool man i see what you mean - what do you use to clamp them? and where could I find that device?

cheers!


spring compressors are cheap as from places like repco, supercheap and many suspension parts stores. I see them sell for $35-$45 for a budget set often. Really, doing it that way, with them is best and safest. However, as others have said, it can be done without. If you didnt want to fork out the whole $40, at least buy some cable ties and put them on the factory springs before unbolting. I have seen some nasty injuries from lack of use of spring compressors.
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Postby TruenoBZG » Mon Mar 20, 2006 7:41 pm

thanks man, what about torque values and tightening to them? I dont have a torque wrench...
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Postby no_8wire » Mon Mar 20, 2006 7:55 pm

Doesnt matter...you can only tighten them so much before the actual shock begins to turn so it not a major...Just do them up as tight as you can :D
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Postby TruenoBZG » Mon Mar 20, 2006 8:11 pm

wicked dude! thanks!
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Postby peas » Mon Mar 20, 2006 9:31 pm

Yeah I would recommend using compressors on the factory springs before you remove the top hat... I may not have been clear on that. The Jamex's you will not need to compress much at all.
A second person is a god send when re-fitting the struts to get at least one of the three nuts on... especially in the rear where the mount will be under the parcel tray if the AE11# is the same as the AE9#. Otherwise you have to prop it up with whatever you can find. A brick in my case :P
I found the spring compressor useful for pulling down the rear sway bar to re-attach the link to the strut as well.
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Postby Bling » Mon Mar 20, 2006 9:35 pm

I had a read, I don't think its been mentioned that you can hire spring compressors. I'd do so, and have done so in the past, not worth an injury for the sake of a few $$$
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Postby Mr Revhead » Mon Mar 20, 2006 10:51 pm

WHEEL ALIGNMENT
Being the subject of E-whinges since 2004 8)

http://www.centralmotorsport.org.nz/home

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Postby peas » Tue Mar 21, 2006 9:46 am

If you want spring compressors then just ask... I have some that you can use... cost me not too much at all... go the staff discount :D
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Postby TruenoBZG » Wed Mar 22, 2006 8:16 pm

thanks all for your replies, i'm deciding whether I get them installed or I do it myself -

Mr. Revhead - point noted thanks.


I was told yesterday that there was no way I could do it, because I dont have a rattle gun to get the top nut off..... does this sound right? I was told that 2 of 4 nuts might be able to be loosened with a socket but probably not 4/4, maybe not even 1. :(

help!!
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Postby Ae92typeX » Wed Mar 22, 2006 8:34 pm

TruenoBZG wrote:I was told yesterday that there was no way I could do it, because I dont have a rattle gun to get the top nut off...


clearly it does depend on ones own skill and tools available, which I cant say for you, but otherwise, thats a bull statement you have been told.
Ive got all the proper gear, but have on occasion done it with a crappy little socket set without issue.
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Postby Boosted_162 » Wed Mar 22, 2006 8:48 pm

As long as you have basic mechanical knowledge, you should find it easy. Otherwise now is the time to learn! I agree with what everyone else says. I bought my spring compressors from the shock shop, costed me $33. Top nut, i just used a socket and powerbar. Just take it slowly one step at a time and you'll be fine. :)
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Postby THA SHZ » Fri Mar 24, 2006 10:16 pm

if u need sumone to do it for u just give me a yell , otherwise if ur keen to give it a go then go hard , but just remember safty first , springs compressors etc , and then give me a yell for a special toyspeed discount on the wheel alignment 8)
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Postby TruenoBZG » Sat Mar 25, 2006 6:04 pm

Thanks all, in the end I paid for them to be installed - i figured by the time I bought all the gear I needed to do it properly, i could have it done professionally.

The front is nice, but the rear is a little spongy still - doesnt really look like its been lowered at all - any suggestions? The dude who put them in said they'd settle a bit after some driving.

cheers :D
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