Qs: Lexan, polycarb WOFs and Certs

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Qs: Lexan, polycarb WOFs and Certs

Postby Stealer Of Souls » Mon Apr 10, 2006 9:39 am

http://www.ltsa.govt.nz/publications/vi ... n-v2-3.pdf

Glazing markings
1. Windscreens and other glazing must be permanently and indelibly marked as complying with an approved trade name or approved vehicle
standard as shown in Table 5-1-1 unless excepted below:
a) Glazing marked by a vendor or installer, and fitted in a vehicle before 1 January 1997, may be marked by means of a self-adhesive
label.
b) Plastic glazing behind the driver’s seat in a soft-top convertible need not be marked.
c) Hard plastic material behind the driver’s seat in a vehicle manufactured before 1 January 1991 need not be marked.

Glazing removal
14. Permanent removal of OE spec. glazing that affects the structural integrity of the vehicle (eg bonded glazing) must be certified in accordance
with the Low Volume Vehicle Code.

Okily dokily.
I was reading this the other day and thinking about lexan/polycarbonate.

My car is a 1986 Toyota Levin, hatchback with no rear seats (certed).
After reading this I started to get the impression that I can replace my little rear windows and the hatch glass with lexan or polycarb without failing a WOF.
I say this because all three bits of glass are not structural (they are not bonded to the frame work), and the car is pre 1991 manufacture.

Am I interpreting this correctly?
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Postby Dunny » Mon Apr 10, 2006 11:12 am

Why would you want to do that - it is soooooooo easy to scratch and I would imagine in a road car, dust and road grime etc would just be too much to deal with. It's bad enough trying to keep polycarb clean in a race car which is only out once or twice a month, let alone a road car which is out everyday.

One thing to do also, it may pay to check the thickness required.
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Postby Stealer Of Souls » Mon Apr 10, 2006 2:27 pm

Dunny wrote:Why would you want to do that - it is soooooooo easy to scratch and I would imagine in a road car, dust and road grime etc would just be too much to deal with. It's bad enough trying to keep polycarb clean in a race car which is only out once or twice a month, let alone a road car which is out everyday.

One thing to do also, it may pay to check the thickness required.
Don't you just leave that clear plastic film on it?
I could always get it tinted. Security tint film on both sides would save the scratches for a while...
Yeah. I'll have to check on the thickness required too... Good point.
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Postby Dunny » Mon Apr 10, 2006 4:10 pm

I guess ya could put a clear film over it - although mine didn't come with clear on it, it came with white film. I guess it depends on what brand ya get.

3mm is pretty standard, 5mm is getting pretty heavy.

Also have you priced some up - it's not cheap.
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Postby YeMs » Mon Apr 10, 2006 7:58 pm

any one have any prices on lexan glass? i need to get sum for my datsun
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Postby Stealer Of Souls » Tue Apr 11, 2006 9:14 am

I had some 3mm polycarb priced up a little while... I can't remember the exact price. I think for the quarter window on my Levin it was gonna be around $50 or something like that... I don't know how much for Lexan...

I should really check again.
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Postby Dunny » Tue Apr 11, 2006 10:26 am

My understanding is Lexan is just a brand of Polycarbonate
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Postby KinLoud » Tue Apr 11, 2006 11:07 am

Lexan is polycarbonate that has a coating on one side to make it more resistant to scratching. This doesn't mean it won't scratch however!
Costs 50 top 100% more

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Postby Leon » Tue Apr 11, 2006 3:11 pm

Lexan MR10
Cyrolon AR2
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Postby Ebola_One » Tue Apr 11, 2006 4:51 pm

K, just got off the phone to LTSA technical/helpdesk people.

Here's the deal in short;

If you meet the requirements in that fact sheet you posted, and you get something from the vehicle manufacturer to say "this piece of glass is not structural" you're away laughing.
(I asked who could tell you if a particular bit of glass was structural, the lady at LTSA said that the vehicle manufacturer has this info, I'd be interested how you get this info out of the manufacturer...)

If you get a roll cage, that all changes, you can start using polycarbonate for the front screen (though for a daily/street driven car, I'd recommend you don't) But you need a Cert for both the cage & the plastic glazing.

They actually know their stuff there, totally worth calling if you have any queries. 0800 699 000 Press 3 & wait for a helpful person. :D :thumbsup:
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Postby fangsport » Wed Apr 12, 2006 12:30 am

Ebola_One wrote:If you get a roll cage, that all changes, you can start using polycarbonate for the front screen (though for a daily/street driven car, I'd recommend you don't) But you need a Cert for both the cage & the plastic glazing.


if you have a rollcage on a daily driver/rally car an authority card needs to be issued from MSNZ , thies will also cover plastic glazing and other items, and thus do not require cert.
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Postby JamesM » Wed Apr 12, 2006 10:08 am

3mm side windows
5mm rear window
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Postby Leon » Wed Apr 12, 2006 10:13 am

Ebola_One wrote:you can start using polycarbonate for the front screen


Not under MotorSport NZ rules, unless it is a car that you actually can't get a grass screen for (eg: D Type Jag) :). I know you weren't actually suggesting that you were going to get a polycarb front screen, but I thought I'd just throw that one out there for you.
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Postby Ebola_One » Wed Apr 12, 2006 11:09 am

fangsport wrote:
Ebola_One wrote:If you get a roll cage, that all changes, you can start using polycarbonate for the front screen (though for a daily/street driven car, I'd recommend you don't) But you need a Cert for both the cage & the plastic glazing.


if you have a rollcage on a daily driver/rally car an authority card needs to be issued from MSNZ , thies will also cover plastic glazing and other items, and thus do not require cert.

That contradicts what the LTSA person I spoke to said.
Maybe she meant that without a cage you neded a cert. =/ confusing.

Leon I could have sworn I saw a section that stated that front 'glass' had to be at least (or recommended) 5mm thick if plastic was used, maybe I've got the MSNZ manual & the NZDRA manual's mixed up.
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Postby Leon » Wed Apr 12, 2006 11:12 am

Laminated windscreens should be used wherever practical. Toughened windscreens should only be used where there is no practical alternative"
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Postby Leon » Wed Apr 12, 2006 11:13 am

To have plastic glazing on your motorsport authority card (regardless of rollcage or not) it needs to be Lexan MR10 or Cyrolon AR2, and of the appropriate thickness and fitting (which I can't be arsed typing).
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Postby wde_bdy » Wed Apr 12, 2006 11:23 am

Ebola_One wrote:That contradicts what the LTSA person I spoke to said.
Maybe she meant that without a cage you neded a cert. =/ confusing.


You generally find that despite what they say the LTSA people don't know shit, along with half the WoF inspectors.

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Postby Leon » Wed Apr 12, 2006 11:30 am

Your milage will vary, as with any establishment that employs human beings. If in doubt, talk to Tony Johnston LVVTA head honcho and source of much knowledge 09 268 9550, for your road car certification information. For motorsport (as in, not roadgoing) stuff, talk to motorsport nz.
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Postby Stealer Of Souls » Sun Apr 16, 2006 6:26 pm

This is getting very interesting. I'm going to have to talk to my WOF people about their thoughts. If they're happy with it not being structural then I think I'll have to reinvestigate polycarb...
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Postby Ebola_One » Tue Apr 18, 2006 2:28 pm

Stealer Of Souls wrote:This is getting very interesting. I'm going to have to talk to my WOF people about their thoughts. If they're happy with it not being structural then I think I'll have to reinvestigate polycarb...

Be sure to let us know how you get on.

The only problem with it all, is as Leon says;
Leon wrote:Your milage will vary, as with any establishment that employs human beings
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