Gen2 3SGTE Not Idling - Fault code 12

[Corona]

Last night when I was driving home, the car decided that it would not idle. It also threw up a ECU Fault code 12, which indicates Distributor.
I pulled the Dist to bits and found that there was a fair amount of oil in it which could be causing the spark to earth out. Common sense indicates to me that there is an O ring in the rotor drive shaft that has come to end of life. I have not pulled it completely to bits as there is molded into part of the plastic "Do not Dismantle".
What I would like to know is can I just dismantle the dizzy and replace the o rings, or will I have to get a new dizzy?
I did have a go at cleaning all the oil away with some meths, but I think that there is still some in parts of the dizzy that I have not got to. The other thing that I cannot explain is that there is not as much vacuum as there was before. It appears to almost be boosting to 0psi when I am driving around. Not sure if this is a cause or side effect, but thought that I would mention it.

Cheers

Neil

[Akane]

OTOH, that NO GRIP guy has a dizzy for sale, so you might want to ask him

[Adydas]

i got that fault code, when the dizzy stoped working due to the cam belt snapping.

[fivebob]

You might want to check what the crankcase pressure is like, it's unusual for a dizzy to fill with oil without some pressure behind it.

I'd also do a compression test and also check that the turbo is spinning freely before assuming that there is a fault in the dizzy seal. Which, IIRC, has no serviceable seal just a plain bushing. the only o-ring is an external to stop the head weeping.

[Corona]

You might want to check what the crankcase pressure is like, it's unusual for a dizzy to fill with oil without some pressure behind it.

I'd also do a compression test and also check that the turbo is spinning freely before assuming that there is a fault in the dizzy seal. Which, IIRC, has no serviceable seal just a plain bushing. the only o-ring is an external to stop the head weeping.

Thanks fivebob I'll have a look at the turbo tomorrow, but I dont think that it is a cause as I can still boost when driving. The Oil pressure seems Ok at this stage, but that is checking at where the oil preseure switch is located. I have not got anything to check the compression at this stage, but I will have a lok at the plugs to see if they show anything odd.

Cheers

Neil

[fivebob]

Just take the oil filler cap off and check for excessive blow by, if it's ok, then there's no need for a compression test.

[Malcolm]

http://gtfour.supras.org.nz/sw20%20distributor.htm

[fivebob]

http://gtfour.supras.org.nz/sw20%20distributor.htm

Ahh, so there is a lip seal in there, but Toyota won't sell you one, or indeed show an exploded parts diagram.

Bloody ripoff merchants want you to think it's a non-servicable item and buy a new one

[Corona]

Just take the oil filler cap off and check for excessive blow by, if it's ok, then there's no need for a compression test.

Oh sweet. Ill have a look at the rest of it tomorrow and see if there is anything else that is in there that needs attention. I did not want to pull it to bits as I did not know if there was any timeing or tentioned parts in there.

I'll let you know what I find.

Neil

[cr1mnl]

if you can get the seal out in one piece with out damaging it somewhere like seal imports or seal jet should be able to match it up with something on their shelves

[Corona]

I have just managed to dismantle the dizzie and have found that the magnets that are in there have broken, so I am now on the hunt for a 2nd hnd one.

Neil

[Malcolm]

I think I might have one at my dad's place in avondale, I'll have a look tomorrow and let you know

[Corona]

That could be good if you do, thanks.