Caldina GT intake pipe sizing

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Caldina GT intake pipe sizing

Postby XERO » Wed May 10, 2006 9:20 pm

Hey guys would anyone know a good size for using on a new intake pipe for my caldina, im putting in a new cold air system including a pod and making a cold air box and the such...

I am wondering if a can go straight into the bend just before the plenum...


Any advice would be appreicated 8)
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Postby RomanV » Wed May 10, 2006 10:00 pm

Hey dude.

unfortunately, you have the air flow sensor to contend with. :(

Which is a PITA.

I'll take a pic of mine later to show you what I mean.
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Postby XERO » Fri May 12, 2006 10:13 am

So with the air flow sensor, would i be able to just make an adaptor to fit the intake pipe? so it can just bolt straight up???

Im looking at going for an 80mm aloy pipe that i can get bend and welded to how ever i want, going into a cold airbox just behind the headlight with a pod filter in there??

will this make a diffrence to the cars performance?
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Postby no_8wire » Fri May 12, 2006 10:48 am

I think he meant you cant change the size as then it would screw up the reading from the sensor..

eg. a larger pipe would flow the same volume of air at a slower velocity then a smaller etc...

Which would skew the accuracy of the sensor/ make it useless...
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Postby Ako » Fri May 12, 2006 1:22 pm

The sensor is still the same size, normal afm = a tube.

Hence - make the tube to wherever you want, extend the wires to your afm, and roberts your mothers brother.

Yes it will make a difference to the performance - i know a blacktop which knocked off .8s from its 1/4 time from making a proper cold air box up and that was it. Cold air = the best free power you can get.
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Postby RomanV » Fri May 12, 2006 1:23 pm

DP

and not the cool kind. :P
Last edited by RomanV on Fri May 12, 2006 4:51 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby RomanV » Fri May 12, 2006 1:28 pm

Yeah I dont think it's as simple as that no8.

From what I can tell, the ECU can compensate to a certain extent.
For example if the AFM signal was always reading 10% low, it would compensate back up 10%.
(Not instantly... over the longish term)

However, the problem arises because the AFM requires air velocity to work properly.
If the airspeed is too low, (because the new pipe is a lot wider than normal) it cant get a proper signal.
A lot of the Altezza guys with custom pipes etc. find that their low rpm performance goes down the drain.
Which is undoubtably because the AFM cant get a proper reading.

If I had the factory airbox for mine, I'd use it!
The only advantage of a pod & metal pipe is that it sounds cool. :)

Xero, if you ever get around to doing this, I'll buy your old intake. :P

note: this only applies to some modern(ish) ecus, some earlier ones are less sophisticated.
However it's been documented that the Altezza computer renders an SAFC useless, as it 'tunes out' the signal over time.
which is a good thing, in the case of wanting to stick on a larger intake pipe which would modify the signal.
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Postby Bling » Fri May 12, 2006 4:48 pm

Ako wrote:Yes it will make a difference to the performance - i know a blacktop which knocked off .8s from its 1/4 time from making a proper cold air box up and that was it. Cold air = the best free power you can get.


this was the only mod change? 8O

what was the time out of interest?
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Postby RomanV » Fri May 12, 2006 5:42 pm

Ako wrote:The sensor is still the same size, normal afm = a tube.

Hence - make the tube to wherever you want, extend the wires to your afm, and roberts your mothers brother.

Yes it will make a difference to the performance - i know a blacktop which knocked off .8s from its 1/4 time from making a proper cold air box up and that was it. Cold air = the best free power you can get.


Two quite different cases unfortunately, as the blacktop has a MAP sensor, it doesnt matter what you do to the intake, it will be fine.

The gen 4 3S air flow sensor isnt contained in a pipe, it is a sensor that plugs into the airbox.

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The air velocity in the intake pipe increases or decreases based on the cross sectional area, so a larger diameter pipe may give incorrect readings.

However it seems that the computer can compensate for this, to a certain extent.
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Postby Ako » Fri May 12, 2006 5:48 pm

I figured it'd be something stupid like that. Any normal car then sure, but a late model toyota... Of course nothing is simple :lol:

Therefore - if they made up an intake pipe the same diameter as the original, should be fine - correct? Being metal it should be a bit smoother inside, unless toymota did a nice job on the factory pipe already.


BZBling - The treuno was running around 16.2ish, made up a new intake which meant move battery, make air tubey thing, make airbox, and pull headlight to race with. Got down around 15.3ish from memory, I can honestly say that was the only change from the old "pod where the airbox was" it had before.
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Postby XERO » Wed May 17, 2006 4:18 pm

Hey guys

Ive taken a piccy

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The intake pipe at the moment is 80mm, so would lenghtining the pipe make a big diff and attaching a pod to the end or even attaching a pod straight onto the pipe as it is at the moment??
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Postby CozmoNz » Wed May 17, 2006 10:53 pm

id be more interested on how the airbox is getting its air...

you are only flowing as much as your smallest restriction, which will be the outside -> airbox tube...

enlarge that, or make another... 2 or 3 hahaha.
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Postby barryogen » Thu May 18, 2006 9:55 am

CozmoNz wrote:id be more interested on how the airbox is getting its air...

you are only flowing as much as your smallest restriction, which will be the outside -> airbox tube...

enlarge that, or make another... 2 or 3 hahaha.


a friend of mine took to his stock caldina gt-t air box with a hole cutter, and added some piping to it from behind the bumper... it certainly changed the noise it made, no idea on performance.
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Postby XERO » Thu May 18, 2006 11:12 am

hmph, so attaching a piece of drain coil down in front of the radiator like what my brother did might work and hooking that up to the bottom if the air box will work and i can stop calling him a noob??
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Postby barryogen » Thu May 18, 2006 1:50 pm

if it helps get cool air to it yeah, it will be better than hot air...

be carefull with how low you mount the pipes though, you don't want to pull water obviously.

call him whatever you like :)
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Postby mikeygtt » Thu May 18, 2006 6:06 pm

I just changed back from a pod setup onthe gtt. Bought a simota panel filter and have it sucking air from under the guard. got rid of that huge round plastic air thing under there with no probs yet. Bit of mucking around but NO to all pods :D
uhmmm yup
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Postby RomanV » Thu May 18, 2006 6:52 pm

So you've got proof that a panel filter is better? Or more to the point, that a simota panel is better than a factory one?

It seems that panel filters are the latest trend.

Pods arent useless, people that install them are.

I'm going to run a pod because I dont have a standard intake tract, and a pod is the easiest way to go.

I think that's generally why tuners etc do as well...

Because mounting a pod can be as good (or perhaps better?) than the factory intake, while being significantly easier, than trying to fit a factory airbox. (For example, if you installed a FWD engine in a north south arrangement... or needed the space where the airbox is, etc etc.)

I dont claim to be smarter than toyota engineers, but they work to more restrictions than joe average.... Having a super noisy super suck intake isnt an option. So they minimise the restriction, while dampening the noise.

So I think that in some cases, a pod filter can be better than a standard airbox. However probably not the case on any modern performance oriented car. (But who can say for sure? I sure havent seen every intake in existance)
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Postby barryogen » Fri May 19, 2006 8:52 am

RomanV wrote:So I think that in some cases, a pod filter can be better than a standard airbox. However probably not the case on any modern performance oriented car. (But who can say for sure? I sure havent seen every intake in existance)


in all the dynos I've seen of a pod installed(usually whole intake pipe removed and re-done in blingy metal), they've been within +-3% of the factory(usually above), to me, it doesn't seem to make much sense to do it without a cold air box, which each dyno I've seen has been above factory for peak output, but down a bit on the bottom end, probably something to do with that word that starts with "h" and ends with "holts" which I can't find for the moment(helmholts?)
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Postby sergei » Fri May 19, 2006 11:12 am

Chickenman wrote:...helmethurtz...


lol.
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Postby RomanV » Sat May 20, 2006 11:27 pm

Alright, finally got some pics.

Image

Image

Image

You need to make a bracket/spacer for the airflow meter, it's a bit of a big bastard.

With it offset from the pipe like that, the actual sensor part is central in the pipe.

So you can't just cut a hole in the side of the pipe and bung it in, unfortunately.

Excuse my rangi adaptor for the pod filter, it's a work in progress. *cough* :oops:
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