adjusting your silver top dizzy

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adjusting your silver top dizzy

Postby matt9ball » Tue May 09, 2006 3:29 pm

how do you adjust your dizzy on a silver top?i say this because i have air coming out the intake instead of the other way so timing @#!^d and i know someone who took it off.
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Postby sergei » Tue May 09, 2006 3:42 pm

hmm, by the sound of it you have set cam timing wrong, on Silvertop you cannot install dizzy wrong way arround, you only can set timing wrong, but no matter in what position it is (as long as it is bolted through the bolt slot) engine will still run.
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Postby matt9ball » Tue May 09, 2006 7:10 pm

thanks sergiel.i still havent got my car running.but just today it stopped back firing and air out the intake and started but died then after it would crank but after cranking for like 4sec it would pause and start cranking again wanting to start.i dont know what changed today from the orginal back firing.was playing around with tps afm and dizzy wich i tryed another but no good.how can i put piston no1 at TDC?to check belt
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Postby Lloyd » Tue May 09, 2006 8:19 pm

Probably best not to be playing with TPS and the like if you're not sure what you're doing.

If you want to check the cambelt is right then find TDC and pull the top timing covers off and see if they line up. Couple of ways of finding TDC, 1) Take spark plugs out and place a nice straight bit of welding rod or something down the hole on Number 1 and feel for the top of the piston travel as you turn the engine over, or 2) Line up the crank pulley with the marker for top or 0 degrees timing (usually used for spark). When that is on 0 you'll be at TDC
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Postby sergei » Tue May 09, 2006 11:18 pm

also check if you have leads in the right way, remeber cars DON'T fire in order. The distributor is numbered, make sure the numbers correspond to the right cylinders, count starts at cambelt (#1, and dizzy side on 20v would be #4).
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Postby matt9ball » Wed May 10, 2006 12:12 am

yeah leads are on right.using multimeter leads 1and 2 have o.o1 wich is ok but 3,4 have 1.o as in broken circuit is this right?also i tryed my TRD 4afe leads but no change on engine.
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Postby Lloyd » Wed May 10, 2006 12:19 am

0.01 what? And 1.0 what?

Hopefully you're checking leads on the 20k ohm setting in which case they should be ranging from about 4k to 10k (depending of the type of leads you have of course). Check cam timing and go from there
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Postby 85AW20v » Wed May 10, 2006 11:06 am

Also remember that there are 2 marks that you could time to on the VVT pulley but only one is correct. When at TDC, you should be able to see a small indent on the inlet cam when looking down the oil filler. If you can't you may have the inlet cam out.
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Postby matt9ball » Wed May 10, 2006 9:37 pm

timing checked fine.i replaaced spark plugs today and car finally started but wouldn idle or run smooth had plenty of grey blue smoke and when giving full throttle it would delay abit then start to open up.i also noticed afm un hooked ran no different than hooked up.its the second affm so i dont know was i unlucky on afm's???spark plugs are already black(because of to rich fuel mixture?)any thoughts a big help?
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Postby Grrrrrrr! » Wed May 10, 2006 9:51 pm

Not idling sounds like you may have a faulty AFM or an air leak after the AFM.. check all the hoses under the plenum etc. a faulty fuel pump relay, or a bad connection from AFM to ecu is also possible.

Did you replace the AFM with another one off a silver top? the ae86 etc 16v AFMs look the same but are wired differently.
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Postby matt9ball » Wed May 10, 2006 10:32 pm

yeah i replaced it with a silvertop1.checked for leaks many times but nothing and been over the wiring for afm.fuel is running constantly from when ignition is on?
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Postby Lloyd » Wed May 10, 2006 10:34 pm

So where is the spark timing during all of this? And have you check the voltage the AFM is putting out?
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Postby matt9ball » Wed May 10, 2006 10:51 pm

5v to afm.and how can spark timming be checked?
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Postby Lloyd » Wed May 10, 2006 10:57 pm

Check voltage out of the AFM and that it changes with the movement (assuming its a vane type AFM). Spark timing checked with a timing light.
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Postby matt9ball » Wed May 10, 2006 11:15 pm

dont have a timming light.will test in morning so im checking for the voltage on the afm wire wich signals the ecu of what its doing and checking the different voltage right?thanks
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Postby 85AW20v » Thu May 11, 2006 1:58 pm

Bridge your diagnostic connector - T and E1 - and set the crank pulley to 10deg BTDC. Loosen off the distributor, turn on the key. Rotate the distibutor and the rev counter should jump as the firing point is reached. Set the distributor there and see how you go. Don't forget to take the bridge out.
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Postby Mr Revhead » Thu May 11, 2006 2:45 pm

that would be easy in an aw11, but in a levin etc thatd be a 2 person fiddly job!
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Postby matt9ball » Thu May 11, 2006 8:21 pm

tha(intake air temp) on afm has 2.5v constantly when ignition on.and doesn change.VS (afm signal flap position)has 4v and o.40 with flap wide open.sound right??car makes no difference in running withafm hooked up or not hooked up.is this telling something?tryed two afm's.
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Postby sergei » Thu May 11, 2006 8:45 pm

the car with AFM disconnected should not run at all, mostly because there is contact pair which switches on fuel pump.
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Postby matt9ball » Thu May 11, 2006 9:40 pm

well why could mine still run?maybe this is why there is no change when un plugged and wh car runs like S*$T.any ideas?
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