problems

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problems

Postby avinesh » Tue Jul 18, 2006 9:16 pm

hey guys enjoying my mr2 so far but having a bit of a problem since i bought it the engine chek light goes on after about 1 to 2 hours of driving with a little bit of boost cut..... the car has trust muffler an simota air filter, i have disabled vsv by removing the hose an bloking the vsv side of the hose but leaving the waste gate side unblocked..... the car has no boost controller but boost around 13.5 to 14psi an its a 1990 mr2, also have disabled the boost pressure sensor..... the car does need an oil change an spark plugs i guess need to be changed as well but just wanted to know if leaving the waste gate side of the hose that goes into the vsv unblocked can cause engine chek light to go on.....
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Postby Lanius » Wed Jul 19, 2006 5:52 pm

Sooo ... you've removed all your boost cuts and safety features, been boosting it, and you're wondering why your engine check light is coming on? 8O :?
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Postby Alex B » Wed Jul 19, 2006 6:11 pm

:lol:
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Postby summin » Wed Jul 19, 2006 6:34 pm

Lanius wrote:Sooo ... you've removed all your boost cuts and safety features, been boosting it, and you're wondering why your engine check light is coming on? 8O :?


Ignorance is bliss I guess :lol:
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Postby avinesh » Wed Jul 19, 2006 7:22 pm

Lanius wrote:Sooo ... you've removed all your boost cuts and safety features, been boosting it, and you're wondering why your engine check light is coming on? 8O :?


well the car boost over 13psi with out any boost controller so not my fault (got the car like this) an it had boost cut problems so i thought maybe coz its boosting over 12psi thats why its havin boost cut problems so i removed the boost pressure sensor..... dont you have to remove this any way to boost over 12psi :?
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Postby Al » Wed Jul 19, 2006 7:51 pm

You need to block the wastegate side v/vsv pipe.

You shouldn't get an overboost code if you have disabled the boost pressure sensor, get a paper clip and bend it into a U shape, open up the grey diagnostics box and put one end into e1 and the other end into te1, turn the ignition to on and count the flashes and pauses of the check engine light, it will go something like flash-flash-flash.................flash-flash-flash-flash, which is 34 - boost cut.
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Postby bubz » Wed Jul 19, 2006 8:56 pm

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Re: problems

Postby solitaire » Thu Jul 20, 2006 10:18 am

Ive got the same car... if its hit boost cut it will cut fuel at about 5psi untill you restart the engine... As Al said if you dont block off both vsvpipes the engine will boost to 14psi and fuel cut.

First thing i did (with the advice of toyspeed people) when i got mine BEFORE performance modding and boost fiddling was: Oil Change (Shell Helix Ultra), Oil & Fuel Filter Change (use toyota genuine), Plug Change, Dizzy & Cap & Lead change, I also filled the tranny with mtl redline as the syncros go in these things - it has made a world of difference.

do your basics first, as everyone on here will tell you its more fun to spend a day under a car doing the basics THEN getting performance rather than intending to do it the other way round and roasting your engine before you manage to buy the oil. I know how you feel because ive just got the same car... I blocked off both pipes and installed a good manual boost controller, turned the boost up to 13.5 and it went like a daemon... but i have turned it down to 9 as its running lean (12.5).. Im not turning it up until i get the fuel problem sorted out.

My advice is this... Put the engine back the way it was, do your maintenance - then get it dyno'd with a air/fuel reading... (torque performance in auckland do a dyno run the first saturday of every month - $60) - Then you will know what your car is doing and you will know if its safe to start messing about with the boost etc. - its better than the alternative

If you just want to find out why the car is getting a warning light then as the other guys said bridge the diagnostic terminals... goto http://www.mr2-tech.com/bgb/mechanical/volume1/efi_system.htm

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Postby avinesh » Thu Jul 20, 2006 5:15 pm

did a diagnostic an came up with code 22 which means water temp sensor..... called beyond motorworks an they told me i will have to replace the sensor..... i called toyota genuine parts an their asking 120 buks..... is there any other place i can get this at a cheaper price also tried toyota manurewa they didnt have it in stock.....
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Postby solitaire » Thu Jul 20, 2006 5:41 pm

avinesh wrote:did a diagnostic an came up with code 22 which means water temp sensor..... called beyond motorworks an they told me i will have to replace the sensor..... i called toyota genuine parts an their asking 120 buks..... is there any other place i can get this at a cheaper price also tried toyota manurewa they didnt have it in stock.....


Email mr revhead... look on the car parts section, there is a sticky from mr revhed and it has an email address to contact him on...

Toyota Manukau will be able to get it in... you may be able to get it cheaper but do you really want to go cheap on a part that measures when your engine is cooking? its only $120 and it will last years...

The car is 16 years old, your look at at least $300 to get it up to scratch if it hasnt been serviced properly... and it WILL die soon at that boost if it hasnt been looked after
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Postby avinesh » Thu Jul 20, 2006 6:17 pm

solitaire wrote:
avinesh wrote:did a diagnostic an came up with code 22 which means water temp sensor..... called beyond motorworks an they told me i will have to replace the sensor..... i called toyota genuine parts an their asking 120 buks..... is there any other place i can get this at a cheaper price also tried toyota manurewa they didnt have it in stock.....


Email mr revhead... look on the car parts section, there is a sticky from mr revhed and it has an email address to contact him on...

Toyota Manukau will be able to get it in... you may be able to get it cheaper but do you really want to go cheap on a part that measures when your engine is cooking? its only $120 and it will last years...

The car is 16 years old, your look at at least $300 to get it up to scratch if it hasnt been serviced properly... and it WILL die soon at that boost if it hasnt been looked after


doesnt the water temp gauge measure the heat of the engine..... gauge is working fine its the sensor that goes to the ecu that needs replacing..... i asked mark at beyond motor works if it had done any damage to my engine an he said no it wouldnt cause any damage but ill replace it as soon as just to be on the safe side.....
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Postby sergei » Thu Jul 20, 2006 6:24 pm

it is really rare when temp sensors fail, it is more likely that wiring is at fault.
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Postby avinesh » Thu Jul 20, 2006 6:44 pm

sergei wrote:it is really rare when temp sensors fail, it is more likely that wiring is at fault.


i dunno the car is 16 years old so i would think its natural for it to die out.....
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Postby Al » Thu Jul 20, 2006 6:46 pm

avinesh wrote:did a diagnostic an came up with code 22 which means water temp sensor..... called beyond motorworks an they told me i will have to replace the sensor..... i called toyota genuine parts an their asking 120 buks..... is there any other place i can get this at a cheaper price also tried toyota manurewa they didnt have it in stock.....


My new water temp sensor arrives tommorow from Mr Revhead and its nowhere near $120!!!!
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Postby gepsk8 » Thu Jul 20, 2006 7:42 pm

temp sensor do shi t them selfs, (main problem that toyota do as there made well, normal don't get a fault code out of the car as they are still reads temp just not what the motor is at) i can get aftermarket 1's for $50.(never had 1 come back. nissan do them more for some reason.
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Postby avinesh » Thu Jul 20, 2006 8:37 pm

ok its getting confusing now i disconnected the water temp sensor while engine was running an the check light came on which meant the sensor was working, then checked the ecu to see if it was hooked up properly an well when i pushed in the harness that connects in the middle the check light came on an the engine almost turned off then pulled the harness a bit back an the engine check light went off an engine started idling properly does this mean the ecu has a loose connection..... :?
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Postby fivebob » Thu Jul 20, 2006 9:46 pm

Either that or a dry break in the wire, quite common in a 17 year old loom. Wiring loom faults are far more likely in an old car than sensor or ECU problems.
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Postby avinesh » Thu Jul 20, 2006 10:03 pm

fivebob wrote:Either that or a dry break in the wire, quite common in a 17 year old loom. Wiring loom faults are far more likely in an old car than sensor or ECU problems.


whats a dry break :oops:
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Postby fivebob » Thu Jul 20, 2006 10:28 pm

A break in the wire that is not visible because the insulation is still intact, and usually holding the end of the broken wires in contact until the wire is moved.
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Postby solitaire » Fri Jul 21, 2006 12:05 am

man finding thats gotta suck...

im lucky... both mine seem ok 8) but the monkey who owned mister two before me ripped out the aircon and messed with the afm. :evil: I WILL DESTROY HIM
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