weldin a diff

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weldin a diff

Postby 1598cc » Mon Jul 24, 2006 4:11 pm

in midst of takin me diff out of me holden to weld.. but wondered if theres any benefit using one welding type over another.

would mig do it fine, or arc? or in other words, what gives best penetration and strongest weld.

any tips for welding as well.

cheers.
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Postby l1ttle_d3vil » Mon Jul 24, 2006 4:49 pm

supposed to tig or arc weld it from memory, someone will confirm exactly which one. any other welds don't stand up to the abuse very well.
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Postby Jebus » Mon Jul 24, 2006 4:51 pm

Mig or Arc are fine, I Arc mine and did Hanre's one in his Soarer. Just cut out plates of flat steel to weld into the gears, do it like this and it will never break. Also lube it up with a bit of grease when ya put it in, helps it last even longer.

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Picture pinched rom GarageDori, but gives you an idea of what I mean.

Just go nuts and make sure theyre good strong welds.
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Postby Jebus » Mon Jul 24, 2006 4:52 pm

Oh and try not to kill innocent children, and check your wheel nuts frequently.
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Postby JamesM » Mon Jul 24, 2006 5:52 pm

lol those welds look like they are cracking. :wink:
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Postby Jebus » Mon Jul 24, 2006 6:14 pm

Yeh, not sure what the one above was welded with, but its the diff Will Cook blew at D1 on the weekend, so not suprised.
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Postby 1598cc » Mon Jul 24, 2006 8:34 pm

yep cheers for that.

just one thing, do i need to pull the diff to peices - do i need to remove the gear circled, or is there enough room to get at both sides without having to tear it down.

cheers.

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Postby Jebus » Mon Jul 24, 2006 8:44 pm

The diff pictured above is a T series, most open toyota heads that dont have a carrier casing around them (as pictured abve) can be welded with everything in place. If the Holden one has a casing around the gears you will have to pull it to bits.
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Postby wde_bdy » Mon Jul 24, 2006 8:56 pm

Another option (have not done it myself) is filling with lead. You simply melt it in until you have completely filled the area around the spider gears. They simply can't turn once its set.

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Postby YeMs » Mon Jul 24, 2006 9:47 pm

Jebus wrote:The diff pictured above is a T series, most open toyota heads that dont have a carrier casing around them (as pictured abve) can be welded with everything in place. If the Holden one has a casing around the gears you will have to pull it to bits.


yeh i believe the holden diffs are a borg warner diff and will probly require dissasembly. i dont even bother with welding in plates. i just use a big f*ck off industrial mig welder and heat the bastard till its glowing. it helps to keep the old oil and after each gear u weld, pour some of the old oil through to try dissipate some of the heat so it doesnt sieze the bearings. (this is how my first locker met its end..it never began haha) the second i locked didnt brake for 4 months of absolute arseholes. the car was sold like that and have heard if it has broken or not.
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