how much will a 16valve turbo take??

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how much will a 16valve turbo take??

Postby Cakky » Tue Aug 22, 2006 5:51 pm

Ok sorry, if this has been covered ( I did do an extensive search )

My car a redtop tvis, if I was to go with a turbo manifold, intercooler, better fuel pump ( rx7? ) and aftermarket computer, what sort of power will the standard pistons take? I know the rods are fairly hefty, but haven't been able to find much information about how much boost a setup like this will handle, I'm not after anything ridiculous, just something a little bit different and a little bit fun.

So has anyone ran a standard redtop tvis with a turbo? Share your experiences :D

Ta,
Matt
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Postby ATAl » Tue Aug 22, 2006 8:35 pm

I've got one of those now, running about 13psi and using a gtz ecu. It doesn't seem to like it very much though, smokes a bit and seems to be losing power.

But it did go alright to start with, especially when the wastegate got stuck closed :D
Last edited by ATAl on Tue Aug 22, 2006 10:46 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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Postby escortman » Tue Aug 22, 2006 10:41 pm

comp is to high
bluetops are lower and seem to b 'ok' on low low boost, just get a 4agze engine and ecu, stock ecu can run up to 2 bar boost
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Was 300hp on 10psi with stock twins, hopefully on similar boost be around 400hp

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hm

Postby ezy10s » Tue Aug 22, 2006 11:11 pm

redtop tvis is same comp as bluetop- 9.4 or whateva.
As long as it is in good condition to start with runnnig an aftermarket ecu tuned well youll be sweet as - i ran the same series 4age with HT18 turbo on 15psi for 6 months before i found a ze engien to swap in- i sold the engine to a mate for use in na from in his ae86 which ran for over a year after that.
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Postby Punter » Tue Aug 22, 2006 11:12 pm

escortman wrote:comp is to high bluetops are lower and seem to b 'ok' on low low boost
I'm no expert, but aren't all bigports the same compression 9.4:1

escortman wrote: just get a 4agze engine and ecu, stock ecu can run up to 2 bar boost
Again no expert but doesn't a 4agze ecu fuel cut at ~14psi

If you don't know then don't post. (although if I'm wrong then I take that back.)
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Postby Drifter4ag » Tue Aug 22, 2006 11:14 pm

early AFM version 20bounds of boost
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Postby escortman » Tue Aug 22, 2006 11:21 pm

Punter wrote:
escortman wrote:comp is to high bluetops are lower and seem to b 'ok' on low low boost
I'm no expert, but aren't all bigports the same compression 9.4:1

escortman wrote: just get a 4agze engine and ecu, stock ecu can run up to 2 bar boost
Again no expert but doesn't a 4agze ecu fuel cut at ~14psi

If you don't know then don't post. (although if I'm wrong then I take that back.)




i was always told the bluetop has a bit lower comp than redtop versions and this is why you 'can' get away with low boost

1 bar boost = 14psi i dnt know why i wrote 2lol my bad
toyota supra 1996 2jzgte t64 turbonetics
Was 300hp on 10psi with stock twins, hopefully on similar boost be around 400hp

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RIP 13sec AE82 fxgt 4agte 5psi TD05 20g
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hm

Postby ezy10s » Tue Aug 22, 2006 11:32 pm

only the small port redtop had the higher comp ratio- big port redtop and bluetop had same comp ratio- no drama.
drifter4ag and karl skewes both ran smallport 4ag turbo engines at some point- went very well too.
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Postby Crampy » Wed Aug 23, 2006 9:29 am

I'm planning on running my bigport redtop with a turbo kit bolted on. I've got a 12:1 Vortec FMU and a Walbro pump to get my fuelling sorted and maybe getting a MSD BTM to do the timing, but to start with I'll just pull the static timing back a bit, until I decide what to do from there.

I've been reading up on the club4ag site and there is a very good thread about turboing stock 4AGEs whilst using the stock ECU, injectors and eveything. Have a look see and decide what you think is best for your own setup.

I'm starting at 5psi and once it's going good, maybe going higher, but we'll see once it's going.

crnkin was running 12psi with stock everything in his bluetop, but had 265cc injectors. It went hard, but popped :cry: Bugger.

I'm probably not going to puch it that hard.
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Postby crnkin » Wed Aug 23, 2006 7:04 pm

Pretty much same info as above.

I really wish I had just ran the 265cc injectors, and ran 7psi. Went very well (fastest car ive even owned) and sufficed brilliantly

For comparison purposes, if i put my foot down in 2nd, in the dry, it would light up when tvis hit, every time, thats wheelspin from 60ish-90ish, 3rd let go easy, but only one wheel.

Run vf10/8 or m10/24, 265cc injectors, diag mode, stock everything else, and youll be very happy.

The single best modification you can do to a turbo 4age is LINK it. Whos with me.
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Postby Caveman » Thu Aug 24, 2006 12:12 am

Im running a stock small port block on 10.3:1 comp ratio. Im only running 5psi for now but ill probably put it up to 9psi on the dyno and if the A/F is sweet keep it as that. i have knock sensor for added reliability. Running a 4agze ecu (ae101 map sensor). Runs mint, spools quick and goes hard to redline. Going to torque dyno day the next dyno day so will have results soon.
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Postby matt dunn » Thu Aug 24, 2006 12:39 am

1998 wrote:Im running a stock small port block on 10.3:1 comp ratio. Im only running 5psi for now but ill probably put it up to 9psi on the dyno and if the A/F is sweet keep it as that. i have knock sensor for added reliability. Running a 4agze ecu (ae101 map sensor). Runs mint, spools quick and goes hard to redline. Going to torque dyno day the next dyno day so will have results soon.


What have you done with the air temp sensor?
They are usually in the GZE intake manifold on the map ones.
Will be interesting to see if it still has the big power loss that everyonr seems to get on the dyno with a pulley kit on there sc setup.

Matt
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Postby Crampy » Thu Aug 24, 2006 3:07 pm

Cakky, there's someone from this club that had about 180kw or so at the wheels on a stock Bluetop, so they can certainly handle the jandel. It all comes down to tuning. Make sure things aren't too lean or too advanced, otherwise things tend to heat up and melt :cry:
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Postby Leon » Thu Aug 24, 2006 3:12 pm

If you're heading in that direction (boooost), maybe it might be worth looking at starting with a car that doesn't owe so much money. Because as best I recall, you have a super low km's GT Sedan that cost an arm and a leg.

Maybe if you're going to do this, you should look at picking up a $2k FXGT? Or even better, pick up a GTZ.

That way, if it turns to custard, you can keep driving your GT to work every day, and won't have melted / molested a very original car.

Just a suggestion.
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Postby Cakky » Thu Aug 24, 2006 5:07 pm

Yeah I know where you are coming from Leon..

I am dreaming a bit at the moment lol, but just considering my options, I've caught the modifying bug haha.

I think I should just concentrate on paying it off ( only got a year left ), then realistically if I do it, may as well do it properly with a 4agze.
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Postby Caveman » Fri Aug 25, 2006 9:37 pm

matt dunn wrote:
1998 wrote:Im running a stock small port block on 10.3:1 comp ratio. Im only running 5psi for now but ill probably put it up to 9psi on the dyno and if the A/F is sweet keep it as that. i have knock sensor for added reliability. Running a 4agze ecu (ae101 map sensor). Runs mint, spools quick and goes hard to redline. Going to torque dyno day the next dyno day so will have results soon.


What have you done with the air temp sensor?
They are usually in the GZE intake manifold on the map ones.
Will be interesting to see if it still has the big power loss that everyonr seems to get on the dyno with a pulley kit on there sc setup.

Matt

No air temp sensor, no o2 sensor.

I was going to put them in but it hasn't been done due to laziness.

Its probably best I get onto it though :lol:

Ill probably just glue the factory (non supercharger) air temp sensor onto a thread, then weld a boss onto the pipe and go from there.
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