Battery relocation and motorsport.

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Battery relocation and motorsport.

Postby ollieboy » Mon Sep 04, 2006 1:00 am

I guess this is a tech question.

In my race car I'm relocating the battery to the boot. In the motorsport manual it says about venting things to the outside. Does this apply to batteries? what is the easiest way of doing this?

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Postby cosi » Mon Sep 04, 2006 1:22 am

My understanding is, if youre using a dry cell battery then it only needs to be mounted sufficiently. If you use a normal battery then you need to build a container for it
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Postby l1ttle_d3vil » Mon Sep 04, 2006 9:18 am

yeah batteries need to be vented to the outside, not just for motorsport, even for wof/cert purposes.
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Postby Leon » Mon Sep 04, 2006 9:44 am

Read the manual.

www.motorsport.org.nz
regulations
Manual 33
Appendix 2, Schedule A.

Print it out.
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Postby NZ_AE86 » Mon Sep 04, 2006 6:36 pm

They way to go is a Gell-cell as you need no box and no venting. Easy 8)
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Postby ollieboy » Mon Sep 04, 2006 7:02 pm

Leon wrote:Read the manual.

www.motorsport.org.nz
regulations
Manual 33
Appendix 2, Schedule A.

Print it out.


yeah I've got that, its just I'm unsure of the venting procedure, what exactly does venting mean, a big pipe? or something different?
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Postby fangsport » Mon Sep 04, 2006 8:32 pm

for lead-acid, unless you build a fully sealed box, with a vent tube to the outside, then chances are it ain't kosher.

dry-cell or gel battery for the win.
no need for enclosure = means you can use it as ballast.
more chranking amps = good for hi-comp engines.
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Postby KE20 » Mon Sep 04, 2006 8:45 pm

if you running a normal battery, get a 'JAZ' battery kase, i got mine from carwells in albany, its like $130. sealed box, comes with massive long threaded rod with nuts and washers to clamp battery down, and a venting tube and and gromets to seal the tube and battery leads, also comes with wing nuts to clamp lid on and a sealing bead to seal lid.
heres a pic of mine in my boot.
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Postby ollieboy » Tue Sep 05, 2006 12:48 am

Mmmm its a hard decision to make really. Only reason I'm moving battery is to put a better radiator in and to get more room in engine bay.

The box seems a good idea but then not as easy as those dry cell batteries. How much roughly does a dry cell battery cost? And where do I pick one up from? I would try and find out myself but I'm busy everyday from 8am to 6pm and have no time to do stuff.
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Postby Alex B » Tue Sep 05, 2006 1:13 am

Well the internets a handy place to look at prices......
Are you talking about deep cycle batterys? If so $3-400 aprox.
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Postby fangsport » Tue Sep 05, 2006 1:22 am

most battery companies now have a gel/drycell option.

can't remeber the flavour of the one we used in the Esky rally car, but was $180 2 years ago.

check the Repco flyer or ring any of the similar type suppliers.
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Postby fangsport » Tue Sep 05, 2006 1:23 am

fangsport wrote:most battery companies now have a gel/drycell option.

can't remember the flavour of the one we used in the Esky rally car, but was $180 2 years ago.

check the Repco flyer or ring any of the similar type suppliers.
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Postby Stealer Of Souls » Tue Sep 05, 2006 9:24 am

I think gelcells are around $200.
The Spiral wound "dry" cells are about $400.

I've got an Exide Orbital "gold starter". It's a good battery. Plenty of reserve, CCA etc. Cost me about $420 including changing from small terminals (most imports) to big terminals (most local models).
If you're relocating you won't need to "change" your terminals like I did. But you will still need to buy the big terminal connectors.

Even with a dry cell, I would think a box would still be a good idea. A dry cell can still vent acidic gas if things go horribly wrong.
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Postby neo » Tue Sep 05, 2006 1:08 pm

I have a jap style car battery in a 'normal' black case (like the $20 from supa-cheap), the normal vents are siliconed up and I have a 1/2" breather pipe hanging out and venting to a vent in the side of the boot. The box is held in place with 3mm/5mm steel plates on the inside which has 4 bolts attaching it to the boot well. The plates are then used to attach the metal battery straps to.
So far I havent had any problems with this at events.
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Postby ollieboy » Wed Sep 06, 2006 12:29 am

neo wrote:I have a jap style car battery in a 'normal' black case (like the $20 from supa-cheap), the normal vents are siliconed up and I have a 1/2" breather pipe hanging out and venting to a vent in the side of the boot. The box is held in place with 3mm/5mm steel plates on the inside which has 4 bolts attaching it to the boot well. The plates are then used to attach the metal battery straps to.
So far I havent had any problems with this at events.

This seems like a good option, cheers.
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Postby sigma » Wed Sep 06, 2006 12:39 am

My battery is located in the boot from factory and as far as i can see theres no ventilation. Oh well.
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Postby Kender » Wed Sep 06, 2006 10:57 pm

Goto a battery store and ask for a dry cell battery that goes inside a jump start pack. They're quite small, and being dry cell they don't need a case, and can be mounted in any orientation. I bought one for $95 at trade price. In Chch, Mainland Batteries and BatteryMaster have them.
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Postby TRD Man » Thu Sep 07, 2006 11:03 am

Ollieboy, if you are mounting your battery in the boot there is no requirement for a sealed box or venting.
The only requirement is that it is securely fastened (non specific) and that the live terminal is covered.
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Postby Leon » Thu Sep 07, 2006 11:20 am

Assuming your boot is a seperate air space from your cabin that is :)

So you're ok in many sedans, unless you pull the seats out, but you're going to need a box if it is a hatchback etc.
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Postby TRD Man » Thu Sep 07, 2006 11:36 am

Only sedans & coupes have boots. Hatchbacks have hatches.

It was always an interesting item for discussion whenever we were scrutineered with the Starlet in the 90's.
The scrutineers would ask where our boot securing straps were. We'd argue that the the hatch is not a boot but a door (i.e. 3 door hatchback) and therefore didn't need them. We never lost the argument.
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