setting cams/shims on 4age big port head

[Pies]

so ive come to the point in my build where i havent ventured before. aftermarket cams (que DUN DUN DUN music)


how do i got about setting the shims to the right height?

so far i have pulled the head off the old block. EVERYTHING is being replaced. i have new valves, new headset, new cams, new head bolts, new anything else i could think of.

what will i need to do to the head to prep it? it is going off to headmasters soon to get a bit planed off the raise the compression, is there anything else besides pressure testing i should do?

thanks for any input. please, no bullshit or i'll punch you in the dick

[4age_rage]

if your handy with a dye grinder maybe polish up the ports a bit i wouldnt go making them any bigger though

[4age_rage]

if your handy with a dye grinder maybe polish up the ports a bit i wouldnt go making them any bigger though

[Pies]

that thought had crossed my mind. will probably end up doing it, unless somoene offers to do it for me when im getting all the other headowkr i cant do, done.

[85AW20v]

You can go to underbucket shims using Echo buckets - they drop straight in but if you're not doing high revs, it probably doesn't matter.

[Pies]

yes ive heard about that one. do you have a link to the website that explains how its done? i know there is one, just cant remember which one lol

[85AW20v]

Haven't done it myself but the AE86 I was co-driving in at Targa last year has done it to both his motors and we're pulling 8500-9000rpm all day. He's also getting 195 and 185RWP out his good motor and his spare so something must be right!! Don't know about the website.

[Pies]

well if anyone knows of the link, feel free to post it

now how do i go about setting shims?

[Mr Revhead]

shiims? i wonder.....


those shim under buckets are not the nz echo, but imports with the 1sz engine

iv been meaning to sort out some decent pricing for them

[matt dunn]

now how do i go about setting shims?

Measure the valve clearance, work out how far out it is,
take out the shim and measure it, and work out what size shim you need and go and buy it.

Repeat another 15 times.

????

Matt

[Mr Revhead]

yeah told u that last week pie man!!

[cosi]

Pressure test the head before you do anything else. There wouldnt be much point porting it unless you have a flow bench, clean up the casting marks on the intake runners if there are any. Make sure the combustion chambers are the same volume. Have someone cut the valve seats on a serdi, apparently 3 angle seats improve the flow of air into the chambers. Match the intake manifold to the head. Have the head decked/planed last. Maybe get some decent valve seats. Not sure what you can do about the valve guides on a 4age

[RedMist]

Pressure test the head before you do anything else. There wouldnt be much point porting it unless you have a flow bench, clean up the casting marks on the intake runners if there are any. Make sure the combustion chambers are the same volume. Have someone cut the valve seats on a serdi, apparently 3 angle seats improve the flow of air into the chambers. Match the intake manifold to the head. Have the head decked/planed last. Maybe get some decent valve seats. Not sure what you can do about the valve guides on a 4age

This is good advise for a basic build. Don't go anywhere near polishing, you loose boundary layer effect which slows velocity, decreases your charge, and hence HP. Polishing ports is very old school. The verdict is out in regards to polishing the combustion chamber.

Valve guides on inlet can be cut back. However this will reduce the life of the guide dramatically. I wouldnt cut back exhaust valve guides, they remove heat from the valve.

[Pies]

last 2 answers are fuken great. thanks guys

Matt: thanks... i didnt fully understand what warwick was telling me last time cos i was stuffing my face with pizza

[crnkin]

pies.

i must suggest if your getting cams, to get it reshimmed. And when you get it re shimmed, get a professional to do it. If theres one thing that will make you annoyed with a rebuilt engine, it will be the fact you saved 200 bucks and it ticks like a mofo.

I got quoted 750 for a full rebuild head with complete port job. Probly be worth it. If everything else is being done

[CAMB01]

Probably not a good idea to stick with the 4age shim and bucket as when i had my aftermarket cams in it rattled really badly, sounded like all 16 tappets were loose (i had rebuilt the head and set the tappets accurately as they were checked many times cause i thought they were loose).
The shim was rocking on the bucket, but still revved to 8000rpm no problems for about 10000km's then decided to pull them out as i got sick of the sound.

[RedMist]

Probably not a good idea to stick with the 4age shim and bucket as when i had my aftermarket cams in it rattled really badly, sounded like all 16 tappets were loose (i had rebuilt the head and set the tappets accurately as they were checked many times cause i thought they were loose).
The shim was rocking on the bucket, but still revved to 8000rpm no problems for about 10000km's then decided to pull them out as i got sick of the sound.

I race against a 4age built by Kelfords with very similar lift and duration to my shim under bucket solution. His standard bucket engine doesnt sound any different to mine, runs as smooth as mine on idle, in fact its hard to tell the engines apart (other than mine produces 2.5bhp more!)
And we are talking about 304 degree 415 thou lift cams. ( I think, although can't confirm as he wont give me details, his lift is slightly less) are you sure you didn't insert one of the shims upside down? They are convex.

In regards to the Toyota shim under bucket,

http://www.club4ag.com/faq%20and%20tech ... uning.html

[CAMB01]

I race against a 4age built by Kelfords with very similar lift and duration to my shim under bucket solution. His standard bucket engine doesnt sound any different to mine, runs as smooth as mine on idle, in fact its hard to tell the engines apart (other than mine produces 2.5bhp more!)
And we are talking about 304 degree 415 thou lift cams. ( I think, although can't confirm as he wont give me details, his lift is slightly less) are you sure you didn't insert one of the shims upside down? They are convex.

In regards to the Toyota shim under bucket,

http://www.club4ag.com/faq%20and%20tech ... uning.html

The shims were installed the correct way up, but it definitely sounded like it was all 16.
Everything was checked multiple times, clearances were fine and shims were correct way up.
When i had the head on the bench after i pulled it out the car, slowly turning the cam i could see the shim rocking on the bucket, not a lot of movement but enough to cause a sound at high speeds like 1200rpm

[Bazda]

Probably not a good idea to stick with the 4age shim and bucket as when i had my aftermarket cams in it rattled really badly, sounded like all 16 tappets were loose (i had rebuilt the head and set the tappets accurately as they were checked many times cause i thought they were loose).
The shim was rocking on the bucket, but still revved to 8000rpm no problems for about 10000km's then decided to pull them out as i got sick of the sound.

I race against a 4age built by Kelfords with very similar lift and duration to my shim under bucket solution. His standard bucket engine doesnt sound any different to mine, runs as smooth as mine on idle, in fact its hard to tell the engines apart (other than mine produces 2.5bhp more!)
And we are talking about 304 degree 415 thou lift cams. ( I think, although can't confirm as he wont give me details, his lift is slightly less) are you sure you didn't insert one of the shims upside down? They are convex.

In regards to the Toyota shim under bucket,

http://www.club4ag.com/faq%20and%20tech ... uning.html

maybe cos ur thing is friken loud so u can hardly notice it, but on a road car the exhaust is really quiet so u hear any little noise.
my pistons rattle bad with my silencer in, i take it out and its like 70% better

[Pies]

thanks for the link redmist. so, am i correct in assuming all i have to do is buy the 1sz shims and swap them straight in? nothing else? (apart from getting the right ones of course