Breaking in a motor, Be nice or give it WOT.

The place for all technical car discussions. If you haven't already, read our Disclaimer first!

Moderator: The Mod Squad

Breaking in a motor, Be nice or give it WOT.

Postby Adydas » Thu Oct 12, 2006 8:57 am

Well, i put it to you toyspeed after doing some reasearch ive some what changed my mind on the " how to brake in a motor thing. ".

Seems that being nice isnt the right way " Now a days " due to many things such as honing of the bore and the technology used ( from when it was done 16 years ago by factory. )

So do you Agree or dissagree with what im about to write, and why.

On a Dyno:
Warm the engine up
completely !!

Then, using 4th gear:

Do Three 1/2 Throttle dyno runs from
40% - 60% of your engine's max rpm
Let it Cool Down For About 15 Minutes

Do Three 3/4 Throttle dyno runs from
40% - 80% of your engine's max rpm
Let it Cool Down For About 15 Minutes

Do Three Full Throttle dyno runs from
30% - 100% of your engine's max rpm
Let it Cool Down For About 15 Minutes
Go For It !!



Yeah - But ...
the owner's manual says to break it in easy ...

Notice that this technique isn't "beating" on the engine, but rather taking a purposeful, methodical approach to sealing the rings. The logic to this method is sound. However, some will have a hard time with this approach, since it seems to "go against the grain".

The argument for an easy break-in is usually: "that's what the manual says" ....

Or more specifically: "there are tight parts in the engine and you might do damage or even seize it if you run it hard."

Consider this:
Due to the vastly improved metal casting and machining technologies which are now used, tight parts in new engines are not normal. A manufacturing mistake causing a tight clearance is an extremely rare occurrence these days. But, if there is something wrong with the engine clearances from the factory, no amount of gentle running will fix the problem.

The real reason ???
So why do all the owner's manuals say to take it easy for the first
thousand miles ???

This is a good question

Q: What is the most common cause of engine problems ???
A: Failure to:
Warm the engine up completely before running it hard !!!

Q: What is the second most common cause of engine problems ???
A: An easy break in !!!

Because, when the rings don't seal well, the blow-by gasses contaminate the oil with acids and other harmful combustion by-products !!

Ironically, an "easy break in" is not at all what it seems. By trying to "protect" the engine, the exact opposite happens, as leaky rings continue to contaminate your engine oil for the rest of the life of your engine !!


During "zing-zing-zing" the rings don't get loaded for more than a split second, whereas during "bwaaaaaAAAAAA", the engine is in 100% ring sealing mode.
User avatar
Adydas
** Moderator **
 
Posts: 5059
Joined: Mon Jun 10, 2002 4:00 pm
Location: Auckland nz

Postby Leon » Thu Oct 12, 2006 9:14 am

The only rebuilt engine I've ever dealt with was in my old mini.

Drove it gently to Manfeild from Wellington. Drove it 3/4 death on Saturday, 112.5% death on Sunday. Nothing jumped out the side.

Not an entirely scientific test I realise :)
User avatar
Leon
Toyspeed Member
 
Posts: 6642
Joined: Wed Feb 26, 2003 6:27 pm
Location: Wellington

Postby Silent Knight » Thu Oct 12, 2006 9:45 am

Cliff breaking a new engine in on a Dyno FTW.

Allot of manufacturers break their cars in on a Dyno before they go roll out on to the floor for sale. Some whilst in the car and some of them just gets engine dyno'd to get broken in.
Image
User avatar
Silent Knight
Toyspeed Member
 
Posts: 6188
Joined: Tue Aug 05, 2003 12:30 am
Location: 'Save the Whale Foundation'

Postby CAMB01 » Thu Oct 12, 2006 11:50 am

Ive built a few engines in my time and have had success with going through about 85% of the revs in every gear, and driving up a hill in the mid range revs. Never had a problem with any of the engines ive built.
1993 Mitsubishi EVO 1 Racecar
1998 Mitsubishi Mirage ZR Asti Mivec (Daily Whip)
1989 AE91 FX-ZS (Previous)
1994 AE101 Levin 20v (previous)
1992 EE90 Corolla Sedan (previous)
1986 AE82 FX-GT Corolla (previous)
1989 AE92 FX-GTZ Supercharged (previous)
1992 EE90 Corolla Hatchback (previous)

Custom Works Automotive
http://www.HCCC.org.nz
User avatar
CAMB01
Toyspeed Member
 
Posts: 1440
Joined: Fri Jan 17, 2003 11:33 pm
Location: Wellyz

Postby Adydas » Thu Oct 12, 2006 12:33 pm

so ud say its all good and I shouldn't worry ??
User avatar
Adydas
** Moderator **
 
Posts: 5059
Joined: Mon Jun 10, 2002 4:00 pm
Location: Auckland nz

Postby CAMB01 » Thu Oct 12, 2006 3:18 pm

just drive it normally
1993 Mitsubishi EVO 1 Racecar
1998 Mitsubishi Mirage ZR Asti Mivec (Daily Whip)
1989 AE91 FX-ZS (Previous)
1994 AE101 Levin 20v (previous)
1992 EE90 Corolla Sedan (previous)
1986 AE82 FX-GT Corolla (previous)
1989 AE92 FX-GTZ Supercharged (previous)
1992 EE90 Corolla Hatchback (previous)

Custom Works Automotive
http://www.HCCC.org.nz
User avatar
CAMB01
Toyspeed Member
 
Posts: 1440
Joined: Fri Jan 17, 2003 11:33 pm
Location: Wellyz

Postby Caveman » Thu Oct 12, 2006 3:57 pm

I think you should put some references to credit the person that wrote that and avoid claims of plagiarism.
AW11 Track Toy
Formerly known as 1998
User avatar
Caveman
Toyspeed Member
 
Posts: 1918
Joined: Sun Sep 12, 2004 11:20 am
Location: West Auckland

Postby RomanV » Thu Oct 12, 2006 4:34 pm

^Agree with above ^

So do you Agree or dissagree with what im about to copy and paste and why.


Fixed. :P

EDIT: *cough*
User avatar
RomanV
Toyspeed Member
 
Posts: 4915
Joined: Wed Aug 13, 2003 12:17 am
Location: West Auckland


Return to Tech Questions

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 17 guests

cron