Tania wrote: Yes a 1990 GT4.... thanks for that.... shall go and get one this week.... how hard is it to take out all the aircon
Wow, an ST185 with less than 100k...thats quite a rarity you've got there. Ok a good upgrade for those guys is to replace the stock downpipe/cat with a good aftermarket downpipe, such as the Aussie one.
If you can find a CT20B from the later model GT Four, thats a fantastic upgrade, bolts right up and will give you an easy 40kw gain at the flywheel. They tend to go for $600-700 2nd hand.
Something else you may want to consider is getting the water to air intercooler from the RC version of your car, it wont be as blingy as a big front mount, but wont be as laggy either and will do a great job of keeping the intake temps down.
1988 KE70 Wagon - Slowly rusting 1990 NA6 MX-5 - because reasons 2018 Ranger - Because workcar 1997 FD3S RX-7 Type R - all brap, all the time OMG so shiny!
Tania wrote: Yes a 1990 GT4.... thanks for that.... shall go and get one this week.... how hard is it to take out all the aircon
Wow, an ST185 with less than 100k...thats quite a rarity you've got there. Ok a good upgrade for those guys is to replace the stock downpipe/cat with a good aftermarket downpipe, such as the Aussie one. If you can find a CT20B from the later model GT Four, thats a fantastic upgrade, bolts right up and will give you an easy 40kw gain at the flywheel. They tend to go for $600-700 2nd hand. Something else you may want to consider is getting the water to air intercooler from the RC version of your car, it wont be as blingy as a big front mount, but wont be as laggy either and will do a great job of keeping the intake temps down.
hehe yes i thought she was quite a find! and how much will a water to air intercooler cost me? is the labour hard to do that? i dont care too much about 'bling' but rather going faster!
So...
1. DECENT pos filter
2. aftermarket downpipr
3. water to air intercooler
4................?
*Thank goodness for lite Visa! And working two jobs I suppose!
I haven't failed.... I've just found ten thousand ways that don't work
Labour to replace the WA IC would be nothing if you do it yourself.
AFAIK they look exactly the same and they are plumbed up exactly the same. So you just remove the old one and put the new one on exactly the way you removed the old one.
I'm not too sure what the W2A intercoolers go for, they tend to pop up now and then...the labour would be the trickiest bit, but if you're mechanically minded or have a few friends that are it shouldnt be a problem.
Oh yes, the CT20B is the turbo from the later model Celica...should have been clearer on that. Its probably the best bang for buck upgrade you could do.
1988 KE70 Wagon - Slowly rusting 1990 NA6 MX-5 - because reasons 2018 Ranger - Because workcar 1997 FD3S RX-7 Type R - all brap, all the time OMG so shiny!
Mmm, Boost wrote:I'm not too sure what the W2A intercoolers go for, they tend to pop up now and then...the labour would be the trickiest bit, but if you're mechanically minded or have a few friends that are it shouldnt be a problem. Oh yes, the CT20B is the turbo from the later model Celica...should have been clearer on that. Its probably the best bang for buck upgrade you could do.
1988 KE70 Wagon - Slowly rusting 1990 NA6 MX-5 - because reasons 2018 Ranger - Because workcar 1997 FD3S RX-7 Type R - all brap, all the time OMG so shiny!
Tania wrote:1. DECENT pos filter 2. aftermarket downpipr 3. water to air intercooler 4................? *Thank goodness for lite Visa! And working two jobs I suppose!
At the end of all this expenditure you're still going to need a decent boost controller and boost gauge.
Even without winding the boost up over stock the controller will give you better spool/response and is easily one of the best mods you can do for instant results.
Discipline is the key, it is really easy to blow shit up.
Nah, the wastegates on CT20B's hold at 12psi, which is plenty to start with. Definately would require a boost gauge though!.
No worries, thats what the forum is for
1988 KE70 Wagon - Slowly rusting 1990 NA6 MX-5 - because reasons 2018 Ranger - Because workcar 1997 FD3S RX-7 Type R - all brap, all the time OMG so shiny!
Mmm, Boost wrote:I'm not too sure what the W2A intercoolers go for, they tend to pop up now and then...the labour would be the trickiest bit, but if you're mechanically minded or have a few friends that are it shouldnt be a problem. Oh yes, the CT20B is the turbo from the later model Celica...should have been clearer on that. Its probably the best bang for buck upgrade you could do.
yeah w2a st205 intercoolers can go from 200+++
Are you thinkng a ct20b ceramic or steel brad?
Either one is a better upgrade than the ct26
Mike
If you actually find a ST205 w2a, trust me it will go for ALOT more than $200. ST185 RC coolers are still easily fetching over $600.
All ive done is upped the boost in mine, im running 15-16psi . Goes better, but im expecting the ceramic to shatter. Being a prefacelift you'll have a fuelcut at 12.5ish psi. Do what Toby said and get a tap and set it at 12psi.
Could always look at getting rid of the sound deadening? Depends how far you wanna go with the car.
eritate wrote:Having a Pod filter will increase peformance and increase air flow which increases fuel usage......................................................
Its a gt4 right.....
Get rid of your air-con, turn up the boost to 10 - 12psi, get some good tyres and brake pads also get a nice setup suspension wise...
Just because their skyline can be faster than you in a straight line means sh*t.
Go take them for a drive through some windy road and see if they can keep up with you :
EDIT: Oh any by the way go buy a $80 K&N pod filter not a $30 repco sh*t one... the difference is quite a lot
Mike
Yes a 1990 GT4.... thanks for that.... shall go and get one this week.... how hard is it to take out all the aircon
And yes winding down the window creates about 15% more drag.... and dont even think about sticking your arm out the window.... the drag that will cause is huge! I think i will remove the air con as I can never have it on for more than a minute at a time because I get so cold.... and it currently isnt running at the mo anyway.... doesnt have enough charge or something and I can be bothered spending money on fixing aircon
Its raining. Its hot. Your windows are fogging up like a mother. Your fast gt4 race car (on the road) now has no air con, and you pull over for 15 mins to demist your windscreen. Now what? I must admit if im driving and i turn my air con on and off, i can hear the pitch of my exhaust change, but i couldnt tell you the difference if i drove around for a week with it on or off.
1996 Curren - On Tardme
1992.5 EG Civic - 101kw@wheels. WTB 4x100 6.5in wide rims.
. Goes better, but im expecting the ceramic to shatter. Being a prefacelift you'll have a fuelcut at 12.5ish psi. Do what Toby said and get a tap and set it at 12psi.
