180km/h speed cut

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Postby slighty_sykotic » Fri Nov 10, 2006 9:53 pm

And just to ad another element, rev counters from toyota arnt that accurate....

My blacktop in my aw11 apperntly does over 9k rpm before it cuts. 8O 8O . Which I know isnt right, so that tacho is up the bung too (factory).

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Postby sergei » Fri Nov 10, 2006 10:04 pm

Toyota Rev counter, Speedo and power figures are all have 1 thing in common: ovverrated.
AE101.
My rev counter goes over 9000rpm before cut. While digital rpm measure shows about 8800rpm.
My speedo goes over 180 pointing straight down. GPS shows 185.
It used to hit at 185 while the speedo again was straight down. The error seems to be accumulative - while at 50kph it is accurate and at 100 it fairly accurate it gets worse.

Although it is completely different with my ST165 the speedo is dead right even at over 160. The rpm guage seems right as well (cutting out at exactly 7200rpm). Although the power is way more it is used to be I think judging by stockish 1/4mile (at low 15s - high 14s 155kph give or take) power seems right (~180hp at the engine at stock, now I got almost twise as that ;))...
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Postby slighty_sykotic » Fri Nov 10, 2006 10:18 pm

Your ae101 is getting to 8800 on a digital meter? 8O

Mine would cut at 8300ish on the tacho, which i believe is roughly what its meant to be.
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Postby fivebob » Fri Nov 10, 2006 10:59 pm

slighty_sykotic wrote:
fivebob wrote:
slighty_sykotic wrote:think you may find all the mr2s cut at the same speed, about 180. its just your speedos arnt accurate.


All the ones I've driven cut at 5500 in 5th, or just off redline in 4th, both of which work out to around 200km/h :wink:


Ok, then at 200 then instead of 180. But were all the speedos reading exaclty 200?

As they stop at 180 it's a bit hard to say. But they all had the needle pointing to about the same place. Not that I really take much notice of the speedo at that point, once it's past 180 it's useless.
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Postby sergei » Fri Nov 10, 2006 11:37 pm

slighty_sykotic wrote:Your ae101 is getting to 8800 on a digital meter? 8O

Mine would cut at 8300ish on the tacho, which i believe is roughly what its meant to be.
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Mine's ECU ;)
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Postby mr2--mad » Sat Nov 11, 2006 8:03 am

Yeah what fivebob said :!: who wants there 5 spd car to top out in fourth?
Now I have a CLEAR idea of where all the wires go. I have figure out how to attach them to the I/C and tap the VC wire correctly.
PLAN A, First Im off to the wreckers to get 5) lengths of loom wire.
Wire 1) to solder to the VC +5V(without cutting it),then solder the other end to pin 14 .
Wire 2) and Wire 3) attach to the chassis ,then solder each wire to pins 2 and 7 .
Then cut the SPD wire, put a strip connector on the ecu end and attach wire 4)then solder other end to pin 12 ,Put a strip connector on the speedo end and attach wire 5) solder the other end to pin 1 .simple .
PLAN B, wait till monday and get a computer tech to do it (I have a feeling he/she would do it totally different) Does anyone here have the tools, knowledge and power?
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Postby tex » Sat Nov 11, 2006 11:58 pm

Buy the IC get someone to solder some wires onto the pins. You don't need special "loom" wire and shrink the whole lot in some heat shrink so no wires touch etc. Find the right connection on the ecu and cut and use channel lock connectors to attach if you can't solder.

If you really do ghet stuck, juts PM and I will just send you a chip, prewired with channel lock connectors.

It's not rocket science.

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Postby sergei » Sun Nov 12, 2006 12:00 am

I would suggest you to spend extra $5 and get one of those little boards and solder chip on it. The pins on the chip are fragile, couple of bends and they are gone..
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Postby mr2--mad » Sun Nov 12, 2006 4:32 pm

Well, I just got back from the track and Im happy to report it worked! A for awesome. Definatly no speed cut , I saw 230 an then ran out of track sweet,....But the engine light on the dash was on the whole time.Which is a tiny bit of worry.Is this to be expected? ,or are one of my joins not joined?? heres my messy wiring and soldering . Thanks heaps to all those involved :D


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Postby sk1dlet » Sun Nov 12, 2006 6:21 pm

from what ive heard thats normal after installing a speed cut
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Postby mr2_t » Mon Nov 13, 2006 2:38 pm

191.8, GPS verified on the Puke' back straight a month or two ago - most annoying.

Must pay a visit to DSE

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Postby Alex B » Mon Nov 13, 2006 2:55 pm

I thought the light only came on if it was getting no speed signal at all?
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Postby RomanV » Mon Nov 13, 2006 3:19 pm

sk1dlet wrote:from what ive heard that makes you fail a WOF


Fixed.
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Postby sergei » Mon Nov 13, 2006 4:33 pm

That is not normal after installing properly speed cut. And engine light will not fail WOF. On other hand ABS/SRS light will.
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Postby mr2--mad » Mon Nov 13, 2006 5:00 pm

Well I took the speed ut out today and went for kane and no sign of the engine light , so I didnt damage the ecu. My solders were utter crap!.I got my iron from noahs ark, I attached my test probe light to my earth and touched the +5v on the chip board(not the chip) before I installed the chip.So I had earth and 5V to it.If sergei is correct tan one of my
solders on the spd wire must have been bad (for the engine light to come on) I need more testing time (Ihate working nights) to be continued
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