1s to 3s swap

[SUBARUCONVERT]

thanks, do any of the other S engines share the same crank length as a 3s? posible to make a 10mm spacer ring to go between crank and flywheel and use a longer flywheel bolt?

[KinLoud]

Just PM'd a reply to pies. Reposting here to share all my hard won knowledge on this topic.

I found a 1S powered carina and used the engine crossmember and mounts.
I got the exhaust extractors made - $850 by ActionDan. Cheaper version by him could have saved $200 on this. There is no factory rwd exhaust for gen3 3sge. Altezza (gen4 3sge) has different spacing and port size/shape for the exhaust manifold. I made a big heat shield that fits between extractors and block so I don't cook starter motor, oil cooler, clutch slave, cooling hoses.
gen 3 and earlier has distibutor trying to fit where firewall is - no problem on a racecar, I cut a big hole and made a box that intrudes into the cabin. This box also accomodates the water outlet from the back of the head.
Intake manifold - any fwd 3sge has the throttle body trying to be exactly where the seam near the top of the firewall is. I blanked the intake off where the trottlebody bolts on and welded part of a v6 camry intake 1/2 way down the main intake plenum. Also the intake curls over the top of the cam cover so I had to cut a hole in the bonnet and attach a larde "bump" due to this.
I now run a custom intake that has the intake more similar to an altezza one (couldn't use an actual altezza one due to different intake port size and spacing).
I use factory 3sge computer with the loom spliced into the body loom.
Sump - due to gen3 3sge sump engine has to sit about 20mm higher than factory 1S motor. I made spacer plates that bolt onto the crossmember.
Sump is set up for fwd - I got the steel part of the sump rewelded so bottom of sump was level with engine mounted upright. This gave a bit more capacity. I also had to cut and extend the oil pickup to match. I remarked the dipstick to give correct reading with engine mounted upright.
With the engine mounted upright the oil doesn't drain out of the head when turning to the right. I have used an accusump to reduce the chance of killing bearings due to no oil pressure in this situation.
Starter motor - need to buy adapter from Fraser Cars, buy and modify the 1G starter motor. The starter wants to be in the same place as a lot of the coolant pipes and hoses down the side of the engine! quite a bit of shagging around to adapt and make this all work (god, I'd forgotten how fiddly this was, took about 2 weeks of thinking and 1 week of stuffing around but it all works!

Cost - approx $2500. This doesn't include motor, loom, computer (these cost me nothing after selling parts off donor car) bellhousing, gearbox, new clutch components, crossmembers, mounts.
$1100 on exhaust (extractors $850, exhaust pipe and muffler etc $250)
$500 for accusump (accusump $300, hoses, adapters, valve $200)
$350 for various welding (aluminium, tags on exhuast, baffle plate in sump) plus lots of freebie welding.
$550 ish for lots of random stuff.

Not included in the $2500
Gen3 3sge motor, loom, computer worth maybe $800
Crossmembers maybe $100
Starter motor setup $100 ish
Intake bits and new throttle cable $100
Gearbox - you already have
Bellhousing mods - $100
Radiator $100
Hoses and pipes for cooling $150


My strong reccomendation - buy an altezza motor, loom, computer, intake and exhaust. This will probably work out about $1000 cheaper!
It would also need the least fiddling around!

Ken
Ham
021 408 863

[sergei]

slight off-topic but who is the agent for accusump system in NZ?

[KinLoud]

I bought mine from cardwells. I got the biggest one (accusump!) I think.

Ken
Ham
021 408 863