bleeding rwd 20v water system

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bleeding rwd 20v water system

Postby johntramp » Mon Dec 25, 2006 6:39 pm

hey, i am having trouble getting rid of air pockets by the entrance to the thermostat. I have the water pipes coming along the LHS of the motor over the extractors. is there any tricks i can try to get rid of these air bubbles?

cheers
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Postby matt dunn » Mon Dec 25, 2006 10:52 pm

I usually have trouble bleeding mine but I worked out a system that works on my RWD 20V setup.

I put the hose in the radiator and leave it running in there,
not to slow or too fast,
then I remove the temp sensor from the back of the head/thermostat housing until I get a straight flow of water with no bubbles,
then screw it back in and remove the hose.

After that I just run it till the radiator fan has cycled on then off,
topping it up as required,
and when the fan switches off,
I put the radiator cap on and job done.

Matt
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Postby johntramp » Tue Dec 26, 2006 12:00 am

that sounds like it should work...

problem being I have removed that plug (red) which I think you are referring to, and i don't think I could get that out with the engine in the car. would it work if i removed this blue plug? the thermostat would have to be open tho wouldn't it

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Postby matt dunn » Tue Dec 26, 2006 1:13 am

I actually bleed mine at the one you have not pictured,
the one that is for the gauge,
as it's easy to get too and I dont use it so there is a bung in mine.

The top one circuled in blue would work as good or better though.

the problem is filling the radiator with the thermostat closed, you get air stuck on the engine side of the thermostat, not the radiator side.

Matt
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Postby johntramp » Tue Dec 26, 2006 1:28 am

I can hear the air in the hose when I squeeze it with the thermostat closed, so I thought it would be on the radiator side. I may have to let the engine heat up a few minutes to open the stat before I try bleed it.

I will let you know how it goes

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Postby matt dunn » Tue Dec 26, 2006 1:43 am

The problem I get is there is cold water on the radiator side of the thermostat and air on the engine side so it wont heat up and open and it doesn't bleed.

It will self bleed when it gets up to temp,
as long as you get enough water to the thermostat to get it to open.

Matt
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Postby johntramp » Tue Dec 26, 2006 1:48 am

Maybe that is the same as what is happening to me. I do find that the 2 pipes have quite different temperatures, which could mean there is no circulation...
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Postby sergei » Tue Dec 26, 2006 6:02 am

Why don't you guys T a hose off heater hose and use a ball valve (or other contraption of some sort) to bleed the system?
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Postby johntramp » Tue Dec 26, 2006 10:03 am

I may need to do something like that if I can't get the bubbles out any other way.
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Postby frost » Tue Dec 26, 2006 9:45 pm

I'm having the same trouble with my ae85/20v. on the bypass side its very hot but on the other side its only worm and u can still hold on to it. i tested the thermostat if its good and it was. i also have the heater going too but the same problem there too. one side is very hot but the other is worm. the fan wont cycle over for some reason.

johntramp do have the heater hooked up? it was a surprise to see other people have the same problem. i was thinking it was only my system.

i run remote thermostat and have taken off the back 20v water block but kept the same water flow as factory. and also running twin core rad. anyone know at what temp the blacktop fan is ment to switch on?? 95?? 100??
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Postby johntramp » Wed Dec 27, 2006 1:50 am

frost wrote: johntramp do have the heater hooked up?


No, heaters are for pussies :wink:, at least until winter...

I have still not tried removing a sensor to try bleed the system.
So have you made the motor fit without touching the firewall?
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Postby johntramp » Wed Dec 27, 2006 8:54 am

frost, i think this is what you are after

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