RWD 20v water system

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RWD 20v water system

Postby johntramp » Wed Jan 03, 2007 11:04 am

Is it a bad idea to run the water like this in RWD 20v 4age?
http://www.my-acoustic.com/Car/cooling/water/reroute_water.htm

problems I see are cooling the block before the head and having the thermostat in the middle of the circuit, rather than at the start.
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Postby spencer » Wed Jan 03, 2007 1:16 pm

the thermostat is still at the start the rwd pump draws through it then pumps into the block then out the intake side of head,
Last edited by spencer on Wed Jan 03, 2007 2:31 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby johntramp » Wed Jan 03, 2007 1:24 pm

I think that is still using the FWD pump. Does a RWD pump circulate in the opposite direction?

How have you set yours up by the way?
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Postby spencer » Wed Jan 03, 2007 2:40 pm

oh ok I dint check the link used to check that guys site abit, On one of my old setups I used the rwd pump and alternator bracket. I blocked off the water outlet? on the exhaust side of the head. made up a chamber to join the two water holes where the thermostat housing used to be, and made the outlet on the intake side of the head at the front (big oval hole above the water pump). also ran the rwd pipe that runs from the back of the thermostat housing to the back of the head for circulation when the thermostats closed. Ran this for around 1000km seemed fine had a big radiator just incase. im currently doing this to a friends ke70 race car with a black top which should get a trashing so will be interesting to see how it holds up in terms of not cooling the head correctly
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Postby matt dunn » Wed Jan 03, 2007 7:00 pm

ke70wagon20v wrote: im currently doing this to a friends ke70 race car with a black top which should get a trashing so will be interesting to see how it holds up in terms of not cooling the head correctly



That's the setup I looked at doing a while ago,
and am looking at doing it on my 7A build but are 50/50 on if is a good idea and will work properly in race application.

Would be good to hear you result.
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Postby spencer » Wed Jan 03, 2007 7:25 pm

you'll be boosted as well matt? this is n/a, I've wired it up, the cage and fuel system is in depends on how fast the money flows into it. but will let you know
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Postby johntramp » Wed Jan 03, 2007 9:34 pm

so do you have any comments on the way described in the link?
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Postby spencer » Wed Jan 03, 2007 10:31 pm

thats the nasty way to do things! he already has a hole in the firewall for the thermostat housing which is why hes done it that way. With the rwd bits and a small chamber to link the two holes in the back of the head you have a much nicer solution. revhead sorted me the rwd bits ages ago and im sure he can sort you out for a reasonable price
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Postby johntramp » Wed Jan 03, 2007 10:34 pm

I already have a hole in the firewall too :twisted:

is the only reason for changing the thermostat housing for firewall clearance?

can you please explain the difference between fwd and rwd water pumps etc.?

cheers
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Postby Meadzy » Wed Jan 03, 2007 10:47 pm

johntramp wrote:I already have a hole in the firewall too :twisted:

is the only reason for changing the thermostat housing for firewall clearance?

can you please explain the difference between fwd and rwd water pumps etc.?

cheers


same that housing sticks out freakn far :evil:
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Postby spencer » Thu Jan 04, 2007 9:39 am

yep that housing is a bitch! After having a car with a hole in the firewall I changed it around to get around this (with dizzy relocation aswell). The rwd pump has the thermostat housing on the back of it and draws in water from the bottom drivers side of the radiator so you can use a ae85/6 radiator it just tidies everything up alot. I guess the only reason for changing for you would be to get rid of the plumbing that I guess you have running over the exaust manifold??
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Postby johntramp » Thu Jan 04, 2007 11:40 am

ok. so that way you don't need to cut that pipe under the #1 intake port either
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Postby spencer » Thu Jan 04, 2007 1:11 pm

oh yea it will completely foul the rwd pump, you need to mod it so its sits nicely as your outlet to the top of the radiator
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Postby thaphatty » Fri Jan 05, 2007 9:30 am

this so should be in the frequently asked questions thing.
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Postby johntramp » Fri Jan 05, 2007 11:57 am

yeah, i am still confused... there are so many people saying to do different things.
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Postby spencer » Sat Jan 06, 2007 4:54 pm

I know I havnt explained it that well :D but if you read above its all there its the cleanest way to do things as your basically running the rwd bluetop setup. its just up in the air if your cooling the head properly but alot of people run it and its fine so far!
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Postby johntramp » Sat Jan 06, 2007 6:41 pm

As I have cut out the firewall there is no point in making a plate to cover the thermostat, is there? I have looped the outlet by the exhaust port with the intake into the thermostat.

Will there be any problems with just plumbing the radiator before the water pump and leaving it as that? Using the 20v pump and the thermostat at the back of the head.
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Postby matt dunn » Tue Jan 09, 2007 12:51 am

If you actually look at the water ports in the head and particulary the one that loops from the back of the water pump,

it come from the back of the water pump, right along the side of the head to the thermostat housing and out to the radiator, then back into the exh side of the head.

So all you are really doing is moving where the radiator is in the system,
And there is a mod you can do in the head to do away with all the external fittings on the back of the head.

There was a good website with good pics of it but I can't find it at the moment.

Matt
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Postby johntramp » Tue Jan 09, 2007 1:21 am

somewhat similar to this 4AF ?

Image

so I would need to put a thermostat in before the water pump and make some bypass as well.

How bad actually is it to not run a thermostat? Can it do any damage?
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