4age sump ke30

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4age sump ke30

Postby repowered » Mon Jan 08, 2007 8:21 pm

heyas

going to replace my 4age sump gasket as its weeping abit, (silly for not doing it before putting motor in ke30)

can you get the sump off past the ke30 cross member without jacking the motor up or taking it out, dont really want to take it out.

what else is involved ... im guessing just clean the faces up and use bit of goo ??

took her to wellington in the weekend and went mint as, just need better diff ratio - 4 grand at 110 km/h
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Postby l1ttle_d3vil » Mon Jan 08, 2007 9:32 pm

they dont have sump gaskets from what i've read on here, just gota put some good goo stuff in there. make sure its decent stuff though.

not sure on the sump / xmember clearance though sorry...depends if once you've taken the bolts off whether the sump has to drop down or if it'll slide straight out.
IIRC you have to drop the sump down a bit before you can pull it out so you may need a bit of room. someone else can confirm though...
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Postby spencer » Mon Jan 08, 2007 9:36 pm

I'd take it out, Also can reccomend the toyota goo it seals alot better than other brands Ive used, but Its a bitch to get off!
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Postby l1ttle_d3vil » Mon Jan 08, 2007 9:40 pm

borrow a steelo from your mums kitchen and go hard around it with that for a couple of minutes. got all the goo off mint as and cleaned it up quite nicely at the same time when I done it,and it got into all the grooves etc.
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Postby 2LTR Rona » Tue Jan 09, 2007 12:56 am

or a wire wheel on a bench grinder works well too, done that a number of times with excellent results each time
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Postby repowered » Tue Jan 09, 2007 8:42 pm

cheers for that guys, whats the toyota goo worth? how thick do you need to put it on?

mmm looks like it could be a bit of a bitch, might try jack the engine up and pack some wood blocks in the mounts and see if that give me enough room.

steelo sounds like the go :)
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Postby repowered » Sat Feb 10, 2007 7:58 pm

found the leak was in the sump but found gearbox oil leaking from the rear output shaft seal of the gearbox,

its developed and gravelly noise when decelerating- im guessing its the that rear bearing as well? they easy enough to replace? (bearing and seal)

whats involved?
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Postby repowered » Mon Feb 19, 2007 9:54 am

that steelo worked pretty well !!

didnt use toyota gasket goo as they told me it was $119 so i said seeya later pretty quick, we shall see how the $30 stuff holds up, should have tried to score some from work.

sump cleared the xmember okay but had to remove those 2 gearbox braces and jack up the motor about 30mm

anyone replaced t50 output seals / bearing?? whats involved
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Postby 2LTR Rona » Mon Feb 19, 2007 12:13 pm

the T50's have to be the easiest box ever to work on.

Take off the shifter / rear tail housing section, remove the small plate on the top holding 3 springs & ball bearings in, lay it on its side, remove about 8 bolts & lift one half of the casing off (might need a little tap with a soft faced hammer if sealant has been used)

It has 3 shafts, input shaft, lay shaft & main shaft. once open its becomes pretty easy as to whats what, bearings are pressed on & there are a couple of cir clips holding things together as well.

if you start pulling it apart lay everything down on a bench in the order you took it off, otherwise you end up with this....

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Postby repowered » Mon Feb 19, 2007 8:07 pm

2LTR Rona wrote:the T50's have to be the easiest box ever to work on.

Take off the shifter / rear tail housing section, remove the small plate on the top holding 3 springs & ball bearings in, lay it on its side, remove about 8 bolts & lift one half of the casing off (might need a little tap with a soft faced hammer if sealant has been used)

It has 3 shafts, input shaft, lay shaft & main shaft. once open its becomes pretty easy as to whats what, bearings are pressed on & there are a couple of cir clips holding things together as well.

if you start pulling it apart lay everything down on a bench in the order you took it off, otherwise you end up with this....


hehe yea that looks like a bin load of fun!

so its a gearbox out job? cant be done in the car?
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Postby 2LTR Rona » Tue Feb 20, 2007 9:31 am

gearbox out, no two ways about it.

Dont forget to drain oil first though :wink:
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Postby Volodkovich » Thu Feb 22, 2007 1:05 am

I have to replace a couple bearings in my t50 too, any one know the rough prices on them(specifically the input shaft bearing) ? Is it best to go toyota oem bearings or just get ones from a bearing shop (i.e. are they a standard size?)
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Postby 2LTR Rona » Thu Feb 22, 2007 9:08 am

Volodkovich wrote:I have to replace a couple bearings in my t50 too, any one know the rough prices on them(specifically the input shaft bearing) ? Is it best to go toyota oem bearings or just get ones from a bearing shop (i.e. are they a standard size?)


Have a read of this

viewtopic.php?t=44317

Personally & this is purely personal preference here, I would go OEM, but thats just me
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Postby repowered » Fri Feb 23, 2007 10:07 pm

sweet yea , revhead soudns like the go to man for these,
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Postby repowered » Sun Feb 25, 2007 11:27 am

whipped out the gearbox yesterday, looks like i can replace the rear seal easily enough.

it was getting a bit hard to get into gears like 2nd and 3rd. would like give it a recon.

Never worked on a gearbox before, wish i had a manual? anyone got a t50 manual they want to scan afew pages out of? or is it easy enough without if you lay it all out like 2LT said?
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Postby l1ttle_d3vil » Sun Feb 25, 2007 4:08 pm

ive done it before without a manual, just make sure you pull everything to bits real slowly and check which way it goes back in.

there are HEAPS of little bits, clips, bearings etc etc which fall out when you pull it to bits, so make sure you know how they go back together. good idea to take pictures too.
otherwise if you get really stuck ive got a t50 here i can pull apart, if you need to confirm how something goes back in.

like 2LTR RONA said, they are simple boxes to work on - just make sure you have everything in order. if you do that you can't go wrong really.
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Postby repowered » Sun Feb 25, 2007 8:42 pm

l1ttle_d3vil wrote:ive done it before without a manual, just make sure you pull everything to bits real slowly and check which way it goes back in.

there are HEAPS of little bits, clips, bearings etc etc which fall out when you pull it to bits, so make sure you know how they go back together. good idea to take pictures too.
otherwise if you get really stuck ive got a t50 here i can pull apart, if you need to confirm how something goes back in.

like 2LTR RONA said, they are simple boxes to work on - just make sure you have everything in order. if you do that you can't go wrong really.


yea it wasnt that hard, i opened it up and all was pretty mint, the syncos were good az, 3rd gear ones had a tiny bur on them. decided to save money and time and put it back together. decided it must be my clutch pedal setup not disegaging clutch 100% that causing it to be hard to get into gear, which makes sence.

i'll have to think about how to fix that. mod pedal box more maybe.

i did manage to break the springy bits on the clutch fork that sits on that pivot point ball, so i'll have to find another fork i guess or try make somthing up. :x
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