Toyspeed.org.nz Message Board

by **bluemaumau** » Wed Feb 21, 2007 11:23 pm

ok the gze is all hooked up, and i havent had time to cheack absolutely everything (spark etc)

but it should be sweet because it was fine before

anyway, i crank it over a few times and then the afm seems to fart air out.

what is causing that?

no grip · by **Akane** » Wed Feb 21, 2007 11:26 pm

Bad cam timing can cause that. Seen an EVO with flames shooting out of the intake because the cam markings are suppose to point to each other instead of upwards.

by **bluemaumau** » Wed Feb 21, 2007 11:27 pm

hmm, i did change the cams....

any thing else?

by **Lloyd** » Wed Feb 21, 2007 11:44 pm

Start with that, if its wrong then fix it and come back. Cams in the wrong place could mean the piston is coming up with the inlet valves a little bit open and giving the problem you're speaking of

by **bluemaumau** » Wed Feb 21, 2007 11:51 pm

yea i could but a list of things to check when i get home tommorrow would be helpful :wink:

never really had to diagnose a problem like this before! :evil:

no grip · by **Akane** » Thu Feb 22, 2007 12:37 am

You're as bad as me, making excuses.
"Shxt I better work on the MR2", then I can make up a long list of excuse not to go do it, and end up spending the day just sitting around.

Just go fix it damnit it'll take 1hr at most to check. Even less on your FF

by **bluemaumau** » Thu Feb 22, 2007 8:23 pm

cams at tdc
crank at tdc
cavity on inlet cam visible thru oil cap

cas is my problem i think, how the $&#$% do i align it!

by **bluemaumau** » Thu Feb 22, 2007 8:55 pm

pics

this pic shows dilled hole in rotating part, groove in housing and drilled hole in housing

this pic shows the other hole in the housing!

so if the hole in the rotationg part is my alignment reference which of the three marks on the housing does it align with!?

cheers

by **andyztouring** » Thu Feb 22, 2007 9:50 pm

Did you line the marks on the cam cogs with the notches on the cam cover mounting plate,and have the dots lining up in a straight line with the cam cog bolts?Both dots should be in the centre from memory,then put the dizzy in about to fire on No1.

by **bluemaumau** » Thu Feb 22, 2007 10:12 pm

its a cas not a dizzy, and all the cambelt is all timed perfectly

by **bluemaumau** » Fri Feb 23, 2007 10:14 am

ok i figured out the above, its the drilled hole on the gear aligned witht he groove.

i have turned over the car but i now have a new problem,

the best way to describe it is anti-lag

revs go from 1.5rpm - .7rpm -1.5rpm - etc -etc

boost is going from 10vaccum to 15 vaccum etc etc]

is this a new problem or could the cas be out one tooth possibly?

by **bluemaumau** » Fri Feb 23, 2007 12:14 pm

ok theres a slotted bracket on the cas if your move this up and down it affects the way the car runs.

ive got it to rev smoothly but

it revs smoothly at 2000rpm, wtf?

has anybody had any problems like this when removing cas, installing bluetop cams?

could it be a vaccum leak?

anyone?

by **slighty_sykotic** » Fri Feb 23, 2007 3:35 pm

bluemaumau wrote:ok theres a slotted bracket on the cas if your move this up and down it affects the way the car runs.

ive got it to rev smoothly but

it revs smoothly at 2000rpm, wtf?

has anybody had any problems like this when removing cas, installing bluetop cams?

could it be a vaccum leak?

anyone?

That is how you set the timing, but moving it around in that slot with a timming light on the crank pulley.

It could be a vaccum leak, or it could just be cold... my old 4age 20v ST used to idle at about 1900 until it was warm, then it would drop down to around 1000.

--Sykotic

by **bluemaumau** » Fri Feb 23, 2007 5:22 pm

ok cheers for that, the car would run at 1500-1200 when cold before i added the cams, surely that wouldnt effect it that much?

Website · by **Rick** » Fri Feb 23, 2007 5:36 pm

Did you check the valve clearances when you did the cams?

by **bluemaumau** » Fri Feb 23, 2007 5:37 pm

negative

by **Crampy** » Fri Feb 23, 2007 9:49 pm

bluemaumau wrote:ok theres a slotted bracket on the cas if your move this up and down it affects the way the car runs.

ive got it to rev smoothly but

it revs smoothly at 2000rpm, wtf?

has anybody had any problems like this when removing cas, installing bluetop cams?

could it be a vaccum leak?

anyone?

Well, I'll have a guess...
Going by the pics you put up of your vacuum lines on another post, It might be your cold start mechanism. My MR2 would pulse the revs like a bitch when my cold start f*cked out (like you have described). The mechanic disabled it, but it meant it wouldn't idle when cold. I had to give it a bit of throttle until it had warmed up a bit and could sustain a decent idle.
So, if the cam timing and everything is sweet, like you say, you might even want to look into this.
Run it for a while, or with a bit of throttle and see if it evens out.

by **bluemaumau** » Sat Feb 24, 2007 10:37 am

ok cheers so should i try didsabling it?, i was thinking it must having something to do with that

by **Crampy** » Sat Feb 24, 2007 11:26 am

bluemaumau wrote:ok cheers so should i try didsabling it?, i was thinking it must having something to do with that

Make sure you check for vacuum leaks too.

My cold start was disabled ans it ran sweet after that. It stopped the pulsing idle.
The mechanic told me the part the water goes through it what stuffs up. It's supposed ot close a valve off when it heats up. They fail to close when the car warms up, so the cold start valve stays open. The car idle then hunts, because of opposing signals it's getting. Water temp sensor says it's hot, but cold start is still open, so has the idle up.

He took the valve bit apart and disabled it completely and then took the water lines off it and just joined the two together.

by **bluemaumau** » Thu Mar 01, 2007 7:39 pm

okay ive got the ign timing all good, timing all good and as far as i know there are no leaks.

:evil:

would my tps cause this?

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