Stupid handbrake light

[Roydon]

Hey guys, Ive been searching for a few days but had no luck.
I recently replaced the o ring on the number 4 injector of my Map sensored 4agze, i also fixed an exhaust leak as a tempory fix at the same time.

Now my handbrake light is stuck on and when i go to accelerate theres a spluttering sound between 1500 and 2500 rpm, the actual brakes arent engaged and the Pads and fluids were replaced when i upgraded the brakes so i know there fine, It isnt the handbrake sensor either as ive checked that.

Any help would be good thanks

[Barks]

I'll be up your ways to see Robert about the gold shed in the next couple of days Royden, you want I take a look?

[big_boy]

my gess is your low on break fluid or have damadged the sensour on the resuvour

[Brick]

my gess is your low on break fluid or have damadged the sensour on the resuvour

id say that will be it to

[Roydon]

Yeah that would be great Steve. Il be out there all week.
I dont think it is the resevouir because its all new fluids?
But il check again

[flygt4]

toyota uses the handbrake light as a general brake warning light, so if ur low on fluid, or if the sensor is damaged, itll stay on. could also be a dicky switch at the handbrake, but its less likely than the other two

[stalker]

Did ya use the right DOT fluid when u replaced everything???

I just remember i had a problem sim to yours and it managed to bugger up the sensor cause the liquid was to thin to reg
(just a guess anyways)

[Roydon]

Cheers guys, but what about the spluttering and near stalling when acellerating. It sounds as if the handbrake is on?, (its not though)

[stalker]

Have you changed the battery at all...cause if you have u may need to reset ur ECU. (from memory it goes something like: connect battery for 10min, remove for 10min, then repeat process,then run car for 10-15min without touching anything).

If not, then have u looked to see if the plugs have oiled up and need a clean (or replacing)???

[slighty_sykotic]

Have you changed the battery at all...cause if you have u may need to reset ur ECU. (from memory it goes something like: connect battery for 10min, remove for 10min, then repeat process,then run car for 10-15min without touching anything).

If not, then have u looked to see if the plugs have oiled up and need a clean (or replacing)???

What the hell?

Changing battery would do exactly what to an ecu? And if in fact it DID need resetting (which is bullshit as far as im concerned), wouldnt you putting in a new battery do that....... Seeing as how you would have to remove the old one before you put the new one in?

And yeah, i agree with the above, you have hit the brake fluid sensor when you did the injector o rings (its close enough to hit with your hand). I would say you have stuffed something else up, its got nothing to do with the brake light on. Check for vacuum leaks, and yeah, it wouldn't hurt to check the ignition systems, plugs etc.

--Sykotic

[Roydon]

Thanks, i was leaning towards a vaccum leak somewhere so ima look for that and that sensor

[stalker]

Have you changed the battery at all...cause if you have u may need to reset ur ECU. (from memory it goes something like: connect battery for 10min, remove for 10min, then repeat process,then run car for 10-15min without touching anything).

If not, then have u looked to see if the plugs have oiled up and need a clean (or replacing)???

What the hell?

Changing battery would do exactly what to an ecu? And if in fact it DID need resetting (which is bullshit as far as im concerned), wouldnt you putting in a new battery do that....... Seeing as how you would have to remove the old one before you put the new one in?

And yeah, i agree with the above, you have hit the brake fluid sensor when you did the injector o rings (its close enough to hit with your hand). I would say you have stuffed something else up, its got nothing to do with the brake light on. Check for vacuum leaks, and yeah, it wouldn't hurt to check the ignition systems, plugs etc.

--Sykotic

It happens!!!
i did it with my evo, i had to reset the ECU, otherwise it kept dropping the revs at idol.
I used to play with repo'd cars all the time and lots had that problem. (unless i am the only one that has ever had that problem???)

[slighty_sykotic]

Have you changed the battery at all...cause if you have u may need to reset ur ECU. (from memory it goes something like: connect battery for 10min, remove for 10min, then repeat process,then run car for 10-15min without touching anything).

If not, then have u looked to see if the plugs have oiled up and need a clean (or replacing)???

What the hell?

Changing battery would do exactly what to an ecu? And if in fact it DID need resetting (which is bullshit as far as im concerned), wouldnt you putting in a new battery do that....... Seeing as how you would have to remove the old one before you put the new one in?

And yeah, i agree with the above, you have hit the brake fluid sensor when you did the injector o rings (its close enough to hit with your hand). I would say you have stuffed something else up, its got nothing to do with the brake light on. Check for vacuum leaks, and yeah, it wouldn't hurt to check the ignition systems, plugs etc.

--Sykotic

It happens!!!
i did it with my evo, i had to reset the ECU, otherwise it kept dropping the revs at idol.
I used to play with repo'd cars all the time and lots had that problem. (unless i am the only one that has ever had that problem???)

Mitzi ecu probably, but no-one has showed me how a 4age is affected by that yet.

Yours prob right with some cars, but not a 4age in this case

--Sykotic

[stalker]

ahhh, thats good...i was starting to worry that i had royally f***ed something up then

[big_boy]

as far as i know matt dunn will probly conform this if he see`s this but all toyota ECU`s reset after 10 seconds of the battrie being disconected some car makers like mitzi ect have a capasitor that will hole the ECU alive for up to 10 minuits & then need to be recharged be fore the ECU will go & they have some stupid long drawen out ways of doing this insted of as soon as the battrie is on but i dont know of any toyota like this

[Roydon]

Wicked lights off now cheers Steve! Now i just have to sort out the mess that is my vacum lines before i turbo that sucker

[frost]

yea ive also been told to reset the bzr ecu. when i got it. what i was told was if its a import from japan then its been running on the japan fuel and has to be reset to run on NZ fuels. and another thing was on my ae86 with B.T running blitz access ecu they also mention reseting ecu by unplugging it for 5 minutes. but that off topic.

could it being throwing u fault codes via brake light??
does it have a sensor on the brake pads to tell u they are getting worn out??

[slighty_sykotic]

yea ive also been told to reset the bzr ecu. when i got it. what i was told was if its a import from japan then its been running on the japan fuel and has to be reset to run on NZ fuels. and another thing was on my ae86 with B.T running blitz access ecu they also mention reseting ecu by unplugging it for 5 minutes. but that off topic.

could it being throwing u fault codes via brake light??
does it have a sensor on the brake pads to tell u they are getting worn out??

umm.. read? He fixed the light. Its a brake system warning light.

and a 4age will not change $&#$% all if you reset it. prehaps reset timing tables, but that will change slowly back to normal if it doesnt knock.

--Sykotic

[frost]

oops didnt see that post.

well what have u got in the way of prof besides your self saying "will not change $&#$% all if you reset it"
have u had after market plug n go ecu's on a 4age before? or even seen just what a stock ecu does after it has had time to calibrate a/f air temp, . after a few minutes of running after reset. or did you think that was due to your kickas tuning skill.
if it does nothing why the hell word they have it anyway. did you think about that. for shits and giggles maybe!!
well i have and its clear to me its what they want u to do if you are changing to a different fuel mix. its not just Toyota, honda does the same thing for there 16v. also as said above mitsi too.
please correct me if im off the rocker.

[slighty_sykotic]

oops didnt see that post.

well what have u got in the way of prof besides your self saying "will not change $&#$% all if you reset it"
have u had after market plug n go ecu's on a 4age before? or even seen just what a stock ecu does after it has had time to calibrate a/f air temp, . after a few minutes of running after reset. or did you think that was due to your kickas tuning skill.
if it does nothing why the hell word they have it anyway. did you think about that. for shits and giggles maybe!!
well i have and its clear to me its what they want u to do if you are changing to a different fuel mix. its not just Toyota, honda does the same thing for there 16v. also as said above mitsi too.
please correct me if im off the rocker.

Im not talking about aftermarket ecus.

Nor hondas. Nor mitzi

Im talking about an 20v 4age ecu FACTORY.

They have two tables that can be modified as far as anyone can prove.

timing table which will be modified if knock is detected, the ecu will then slowly return to normal until knock is detected again. Making an endless loop, also making reset pointless.

The second is a/f ratio, modifed by the oxygen sensor, again, it will default to a preset before slowly being modified. And remember this is ONLY used on very light throttle opening, so it can almost be disgraded here, as its used when crusing.

--Sykotic