1JZGTE base timing way out.Suggestions please.

[BlakeNZ]

hi, My soarer 1JZ has a base timing of 20-22 degrees, instead of the factory 10 degrees. This is causing detonation problems,and would have damaged the motor if i didn't have a knock link.With no distributer to adjust, and no crank angle sensor with adjustment available(like a nissan RB motor has), how can i fix this.??? I think that (possibly?)the mechanic got the bottom pulley wrongly positioned when they put a new cam belt on, but some people say if that was true, the engine's valve timing would be way out of whack and would hardly run.I have run diagnostics,and no fault codes are showing.Any suggestions appreciated.nb have swapped MAP sensor,air intake temp sensor,and turned boost cut defender to zero,with no improvement.Thanks for any help.or contact details of experienced toyota mechanics.Local toyota dealer would hardly know a JZ if it painted itself pink and danced in front of them , singing " pink 1JZ motors are here again"!They don't see many of them.

[MrOizo]

maybe just take the cambelt off and have a look for yourself?

only takes about 3 hours to take it all off, check and put together again.

[matt dunn]

It may be possible for the cam pulley to be in the wrong position but the cams still be in the correct place,

but I think the pulley should be keyed and only go one way?

Sounds like something like that would be the fault though.

[Lloyd]

Could just be that you're out one tooth. Have had cars in that are gutless in the revs but run fine and idle perfectly.

What setup do the 1JZs run? 6 coils and a cam angle sensor?

[matt dunn]

Could just be that you're out one tooth. Have had cars in that are gutless in the revs but run fine and idle perfectly.

What setup do the 1JZs run? 6 coils and a cam angle sensor?

6 Coils,
one crank shaft sensor that senses off the cam drive pully on the crank,
and two sensors on the inlet cam for sync.

[BlakeNZ]

the car isn't gutless. ran a 12.6 @180kmh at masterton on saturday.(stock ecu and turbos) i will take your advice and check the bottom pulley myself.

[KinLoud]

Are you running the factory computer?
How do you know the timing is 22 degrees?
You used a timing light I presume?
Did you jump the correct connectors in the diagnostic plug together? If you didn't then the timing will appear waay wrong!
Also check that the throttle is fully closed when you do this as this can cause the computer to change timing off the base timing even with the correct connectors in the diagnostic plug jumped.
Good luck.

Ken
Ham
021 408 863

[nite b]

Jeez! 12.6 is pretty sweet for a big old Soarer!
Is the detonation audible, or just showing on the knocklink?
Has the knocklink been wired into factory knock sensor or its own separate sensor?

[Jkendall95]

Sorry to revive an ancient thread, but I'm having a similar issue... Was there a resolution?

[BlakeNZ]

Sorry i missed this post.
yes, there was a resolution. I opened the bonnet on a very dark night, with no lights on, and i saw green static electricity arcing around down by the alternator and crank angle sensor. I installed a generic "earthing kit" running leads out from the battery earth to various points on the motor and body, and directly targeting one down into the problem area. Result: timing returned to normal.
Just take note of the post that mentions you need to jumper the correct two pins in the diagnostics box to correctly read base timing .