building a 4agte

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building a 4agte

Postby gasman » Wed Mar 21, 2007 10:34 pm

going to build a 4agte with after market rods and pistons.

should i get 0.5 oversize incase my walls are all out of wack and need to be bored out and honed? and how much would it cost for a bore and hone?

would like to put the engine back together my self with the help of a mate so is just pretty much mach the parts and torque it up? going to rebuid with arp rod bolts and head studs btw

and in terms of intercooler piping whats more expensive aluminum or steel?
i got a DC tig but not to flash at it atm, but thats sure to change. and what about the efficiency between aluminum and steel?

has anyone ever thought of anodising the intercooler inside and out black for better heat dissipation?
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Postby IH8TEC » Wed Mar 21, 2007 10:55 pm

about the oversized pistons etc. definately get a hone with new pistons, and if it needs to be bored out, then get that.

as for prices, call some motor machinists, in terms or prices for alloy etc, call some metal places, like tube bending.

i've got oversized pistons in mine. but if i stuff the engine and want to use this block agian, i'll have to get custom pistons to go oversize more as toyota only make 4agze pistons to .5mm over
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Previous Car: 1988 Toyota Levin 4agte
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Postby l1ttle_d3vil » Wed Mar 21, 2007 11:18 pm

as for the i/c piping, check this out...got a little bit of info regarding the trade-offs between alloy and steel...

viewtopic.php?t=53847
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Postby Cakky » Thu Mar 22, 2007 12:04 am

jeepers justin give me a chance to catch up would ya :P

sell me your trumpets? :lol:
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Postby gasman » Thu Mar 22, 2007 5:48 am

Cakky wrote:jeepers justin give me a chance to catch up would ya :P

sell me your trumpets? :lol:


yea sure wont be until prob novembet once i get all the parts together.
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Postby flygt4 » Thu Mar 22, 2007 7:53 am

any particular reason you want to use aftermarket pistons?
the standard ones are pretty solid, and have been known to make up to 300kw.the rods are pretty massive too.
i have standard gze pistons and silvertop rods, with arp fasteners and a trd headgasket and its taken some serious abuse for 2 years now.

if you're preparing one for track work, i would be looking at the oil system of the 4age first. most common failure seem to be run bearings.
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Postby gasman » Thu Mar 22, 2007 2:14 pm

well i would like to run aftermarket rods and pistons for the just in case factor but if i cant gather up enough cash then ill just go with the gze rods and pistons.

if i did run the gze pistons would i need to get the valve pockets cut or just leave it.

how much for gze rods and pistons new from toyota anyone know?

not preping exclusively for track just aiming for over 200kw. what can be done to the oil system other than going with a dry sump?
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Postby IH8TEC » Thu Mar 22, 2007 4:27 pm

gasman wrote:well i would like to run aftermarket rods and pistons for the just in case factor but if i cant gather up enough cash then ill just go with the gze rods and pistons.

if i did run the gze pistons would i need to get the valve pockets cut or just leave it.

how much for gze rods and pistons new from toyota anyone know?

not preping exclusively for track just aiming for over 200kw. what can be done to the oil system other than going with a dry sump?


for 200kw you wont need aftermarket. ir using a 20v head it just becomes an interfearance engine.

pistons are about 90-110 each i think,

oil system you can shim the oil pump so it creates more pressure, but dont really need to, good thing to add would be an engine oil cooler with a remote filter if you wanted. absolutely no need to dry sump it.
Current Rides: 1994 Hiace Custom
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Sold to a muppit who wrecked it
Hmm
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Postby gasman » Thu Mar 22, 2007 4:58 pm

i emailed acl performance about their 20v forged pistons with 8.5:1 ratio

http://www.aclperformance.com.au/Toyota ... istons.htm

and they say the black top is an interference engine anyway so im a bit confused over that.

if i had an interference engine to start off with that wouldnt be a big fuss but im just trying to avoid it if i can.

for the oil cooler im going to get one anyway because im going to run the oil feed from it.
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Postby RedMist » Thu Mar 22, 2007 5:59 pm

gasman wrote:i emailed acl performance about their 20v forged pistons with 8.5:1 ratio

http://www.aclperformance.com.au/Toyota ... istons.htm



Am I going blind... or do those pistons have a massive skirt!
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Postby AceSniper » Thu Mar 22, 2007 6:59 pm

yea always wonderd about the skirt on them... haha
but also look at the weight... ud think they would be heavyer
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Postby gasman » Thu Mar 22, 2007 10:30 pm

from what i can gather 440cc injectors would be good for approx 200kw on standard fuel pressure so how much more could i get out if it if i get a FPR to up the pressure.

how about running an extra injector?
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Postby matt dunn » Thu Mar 22, 2007 11:29 pm

RedMist wrote:
gasman wrote:i emailed acl performance about their 20v forged pistons with 8.5:1 ratio

http://www.aclperformance.com.au/Toyota ... istons.htm



Am I going blind... or do those pistons have a massive skirt!


The picture is stretched,
Click on the picture to enlarge it and it comes right.
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Postby bluemaumau » Fri Mar 23, 2007 12:50 am

what sort of power do you want?

if 200kw id just buy a small port and chuck ze pistons in it + all trubo mods
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Postby flygt4 » Fri Mar 23, 2007 8:07 am

gasman wrote:from what i can gather 440cc injectors would be good for approx 200kw on standard fuel pressure so how much more could i get out if it if i get a FPR to up the pressure.

how about running an extra injector?


440's seem to be good to about 180kw atw. dont muck about and get 550's or aftermarket on es to start with.
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Postby RedMist » Fri Mar 23, 2007 9:29 am

matt dunn wrote:
RedMist wrote:
gasman wrote:i emailed acl performance about their 20v forged pistons with 8.5:1 ratio

http://www.aclperformance.com.au/Toyota ... istons.htm



Am I going blind... or do those pistons have a massive skirt!


The picture is stretched,
Click on the picture to enlarge it and it comes right.


Still looks like a big skirt for a racing piston. Could still be skewed, as the deck height looks massive as well.
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Postby matt dunn » Fri Mar 23, 2007 9:55 pm

IH8TEC wrote:oil system you can shim the oil pump so it creates more pressure, absolutely no need to dry sump it.


are you meaning the pressure relief valve?
If there is not enough pressure to open the valve ( which is more than enough pressure to stop run bearings)
how can shimming the valve give you more pressure?

An dry sumping is an overkill for most things,
well built baffles in the sump are a better idea,
and a must on circuit cars.

RedMist wrote:
Still looks like a big skirt for a racing piston. Could still be skewed, as the deck height looks massive as well.


I suppose it is for a race piston, as they are usuallu quite short.
look like a copy of the standard size one's.
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Postby gasman » Fri Mar 23, 2007 11:14 pm

so how hard is it to put a bare engine block and parts back together? cant be too hard can it?
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Postby Santa'sBoostinSleigh » Fri Mar 23, 2007 11:55 pm

gasman wrote:so how hard is it to put a bare engine block and parts back together? cant be too hard can it?

*generally* if you have to ask something like that, then its not a good idea to attempt it yourself
if youre going to all the trouble of using flashy parts, and turboing an N/A engine, dont combine it with the 'she'll be right mate' attitude or else youre likely to end up with a worthless lump of used-to-be-an-expensive-engine
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Postby gasman » Sat Mar 24, 2007 12:03 am

Santa'sBoostinSleigh wrote:
gasman wrote:so how hard is it to put a bare engine block and parts back together? cant be too hard can it?

*generally* if you have to ask something like that, then its not a good idea to attempt it yourself
if youre going to all the trouble of using flashy parts, and turboing an N/A engine, dont combine it with the 'she'll be right mate' attitude or else youre likely to end up with a worthless lump of used-to-be-an-expensive-engine


well im prob not that hopeless. just never done a car engine before
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