Caldina GT-T modifying

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Postby gttNICK » Mon Apr 09, 2007 5:51 pm

slighty_sykotic wrote:What car was it?

Not being a dick now.

Really am interested... I find that pretty hard to believe.


It was a mk2 VW Golf
If you search the forums on VASK.org.nz you may be able to find it
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Postby solitaire » Mon Apr 09, 2007 6:09 pm

i owned a mkii golf 1.6litre and they wernt exactly cutting edge tech, great little cars but they had a similiar feel to a ae82 technology wise.

I reckon you could get respectable gains replacing the pod filter on a mkii, but i doubt the performance toyotas of the 90's would suffer the same bottleneck.
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Postby fivebob » Mon Apr 09, 2007 6:10 pm

gttNICK wrote:
slighty_sykotic wrote:What car was it?

Not being a dick now.

Really am interested... I find that pretty hard to believe.


It was a mk2 VW Golf
If you search the forums on VASK.org.nz you may be able to find it

lol, if you haven't noticed this thread is about a late 90's Turbo charged Toyota not an 80's NA VW Golf, which had a very poor performing engine to start with.

I never said a pod filter doesn't a make a difference on some cars, just that a pod filter produces no detectable power increase, on a Caldina GT-T
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Postby Dell'Orto » Mon Apr 09, 2007 7:05 pm

fivebob wrote:FWIW a pod filter produces no detectable power increase, according to my Blitz Power Meter


Not saying that you're wrong, but I've seen some very interesting/wildly wrong results from the Power Meters before.
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Postby fivebob » Mon Apr 09, 2007 7:16 pm

Mmm, Boost wrote:
fivebob wrote:FWIW a pod filter produces no detectable power increase, according to my Blitz Power Meter


Not saying that you're wrong, but I've seen some very interesting/wildly wrong results from the Power Meters before.

If you use them as a tool to get accurate power readings then maybe they might be out by a few Kw, but no more than the difference between two dynos. However if properly used they provide a very accurate way of determining changes in power produced. After all, they use the same principle as a rolling road dyno to get the readings.

If you do silly things like use them on a downhill(or uphill) run, in the wet, or switch it on when the vehicle is moving, then you can get very innaccurate results.

However if you use them in the way I do, which is doing several runs in both directions over a flat section of road (well it's flat according to the council engineers) and then averaging all runs, which in this case are within a couple of HP. then it's a very useful tool.
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Postby Santa'sBoostinSleigh » Mon Apr 09, 2007 10:05 pm

AJz wrote:THIS is how i have mine set up.

(note: the air temp sensor is still hanging in its original position, i plan to move this)

(correct me if im wrong) if you run the air temp sensor in the engine bay, its probably going to mess around with what the ecu sees the temp as vs what temp is actually going into the motor and therefore muck up the fueling/timing??


My BOV is basically done the same way
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however that was an old photo and its changed a bit since then

i run a K&N panel in the stock airbox and it seems fine
fivebob - have you got any pics of your extra air ducting? i wouldn't mind installing some myself at some stage
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Postby Burning Angel » Tue Apr 10, 2007 12:01 am

the air temp sens on the caldina gtt only measures air temp before the turbo(well the one were talking about) and as far as i know thats only for emissions purposes. the turbo is going to heat this air and also there will be variances in temp due to heatsoak in the interwarmer. these are picked up by this temp sensor here
Image
(pic thanks to fivebob)

the airbox sens prob only effects the performance in fuel consumption

my take on the whole gtt modifying thing from what ive seen on this forum and from personal experince is as follows.

*The engines are pretty good in stock form(260hp)
*pods dont do much but can improve higher rpm breathing in cold ambient temps(butt dyno)
*bovs go vrrrmm-psssht(thats all)
*guttting the cat seems to improve turbo response(eye to boost gauge dyno)
*boost increase: dont use a bleed valve or the like(on any car prone to spikng) use a decent ebc and dont exeed 15 pound in stock form.
* to go any higher you will likely need extra cooling(oil) and an ecu upgrade (and by ecu i mean soming like a linkplus or motec not a piggyback. power fc may be acceptable in some cases)
and you might say $2000 plus is alot of money to spend but the gains in performance are not just the peak figures everone likes to quote.
when tuned by a competent tuner an aftermarket ecu can extract more torque(and a broader spread) more throttle response, more driveability AND more peak power from even a stock engine.

this then leaves you in the position for injector upgrades, turbo, intercooler, cams and much more and not need to worry that the engine may be destroyed by incorect parameters.
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Postby fivebob » Tue Apr 10, 2007 2:27 am

Santa'sBoostinSleigh wrote:fivebob - have you got any pics of your extra air ducting? i wouldn't mind installing some myself at some stage

Nope, got no pics of that. It was added after that pic was taken. and it's all hidden anyway. Besides which it wouldn't be of much use unless you have the TRD front end, and remove the standard airbox resonator.
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Postby gttNICK » Tue Apr 10, 2007 1:24 pm

[/quote]
lol, if you haven't noticed this thread is about a late 90's Turbo charged Toyota not an 80's NA VW Golf, which had a very poor performing engine to start with.
[/quote]

Yes I did notice but since everyone was adding their 2cents on POD filters I thought I would add mine.

And the engine in the Mk2 Gti golf was a great performer, way ahead of their time. But yes it is not a 2L turbo, although I thought an engine like this would only amplify the effects...
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Postby solitaire » Tue Apr 10, 2007 3:43 pm

gttNICK wrote:And the engine in the Mk2 Gti golf was a great performer, way ahead of their time. But yes it is not a 2L turbo, although I thought an engine like this would only amplify the effects...

In what way? They where reliable but i would not call them ahead of their time...
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Postby AJz » Tue Apr 10, 2007 4:16 pm

enough with the flaming :roll:
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Postby solitaire » Tue Apr 10, 2007 4:18 pm

Im not flaming, we are comparing engines, ive made no personal attacks whatsoever.
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Postby Mr Revhead » Tue Apr 10, 2007 4:28 pm

i cant see any flaming

but i can see some offtopic.....

so lets stick to the topic please :D
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Postby solitaire » Tue Apr 10, 2007 5:31 pm

Mr Revhead wrote:but i can see some offtopic.....

Fair enough - Cant argue with that :D

I think the post author has had his questions answered,
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Postby gleem » Tue Apr 10, 2007 9:58 pm

blunt question here exhaust off the turbo 3" or 2.5"?
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Postby solitaire » Tue Apr 10, 2007 10:45 pm

http://www.aussie-speed.com/faq.htm

Read the first faq, in my opinion 3" is futureproof for you... but im not a techie...
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Postby Santa'sBoostinSleigh » Tue Apr 10, 2007 10:52 pm

im in need of a new rear muff actually, mines got holes like a damn sieve
any opinions/ideas on brand/price etc etc?
i *think* my current system is 2.5" but will need to check
and no i dont want a rice cannon :p
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Postby Chickenman » Tue Apr 10, 2007 11:12 pm

Image

I've heard these sound really nice.
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Postby Santa'sBoostinSleigh » Tue Apr 10, 2007 11:22 pm

milo ftw
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Postby AJz » Wed Apr 11, 2007 12:58 am

gleem wrote:blunt question here exhaust off the turbo 3" or 2.5"?


if you mean which is goin to be better in this situation id say you dont need more than a 2.5, some people will disagree with that though.

As for santa, ive got a sports muffler on the end and it sounds nice, just a low rumble but not annoying. Not sure of the brand, was from Magoo Mufflers.
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