heat treating of suspension parts

The place for all technical car discussions. If you haven't already, read our Disclaimer first!

Moderator: The Mod Squad

Postby blitza » Thu May 10, 2007 12:11 pm

ummmm, so here i go bursting into print,

If all you are doing is welding mild steel to mild steel, I wouldn't bother with stress relieving them, unless you distort them heaps (althou it would only cost you about $25 at heat treatments anyway)

If you are welding cromolly to, um anything then i would heat treat or it will crack. I made some braces for someone's 'track' car (it only ever ran on three...) out of cromo and mild steel, tacked everything on the car, then finished the welding on the bench, all was distorted to hell, but after 'normalizing' everything was back about where it should have been.

Suspension arms we made for a certain #1 datsun out of 4130 tube, tig'd, normalized, fitted, and then the wheelalignment guy put a mother of a load on them, and they're still fine.

If you got anything usefull out of that you're doing good. I'd just mig them.
MAD Industries Limited
'97 GTT auto, -under rebuild, again.
the faster you go, the quicker you get there...
User avatar
blitza
Toyspeed Member
 
Posts: 415
Joined: Mon Nov 10, 2003 8:38 pm
Location: Waitakere City

Postby vvega » Thu May 10, 2007 7:04 pm

as for normalising heat teh parts up till there cherry and then cover them in lime (i mean liek at least 100mm bigger that teh object in all directions) BTW for what you just did...mig is far better than tig...less heat issues and distortion
vvega
 

Postby Distrb » Thu May 10, 2007 7:06 pm

frost wrote:did you get those struts from christchurch? on TM, if so :evil: i was wanting those and asked for the buynow but someone clicked b4 i did.


no he didnt
www.hccc.org.nz 1986 Fx-Gt; 1999 Altezza
User avatar
Distrb
Regular Poster
 
Posts: 4756
Joined: Thu Jan 23, 2003 4:23 pm
Location: Wellington

Postby Mr Revhead » Thu May 10, 2007 9:28 pm

yeah got them local.

mig has crossed my mind due to ease of it. it maybe that using actually getting a tig in there isnt practical

tomorow is cutting and measuring day, so ill know then!
Being the subject of E-whinges since 2004 8)

http://www.centralmotorsport.org.nz/home

Image
User avatar
Mr Revhead
SECURITY!
 
Posts: 24635
Joined: Tue Jan 20, 2004 4:06 pm
Location: Nelson

Postby Dell'Orto » Thu May 10, 2007 10:50 pm

Mr Revhead wrote:tomorow is cutting and measuring day, so ill know then!


Shouldn't that be the other way round??? :lol:
1988 KE70 Wagon - Slowly rusting
1990 NA6 MX-5 - because reasons
2018 Ranger - Because workcar
1997 FD3S RX-7 Type R - all brap, all the time
OMG so shiny!

Quint wrote:Not just cock, large cock.
User avatar
Dell'Orto
** Moderator **
 
Posts: 17494
Joined: Tue Jul 08, 2003 5:07 am
Location: Straight out the ghetto, Lower Hutt

Postby Mr Revhead » Thu May 10, 2007 10:58 pm

actually no, i need to cut the donor arm up to measure the donor section so i can calculate the length i cut the ke70 arm too :P
Being the subject of E-whinges since 2004 8)

http://www.centralmotorsport.org.nz/home

Image
User avatar
Mr Revhead
SECURITY!
 
Posts: 24635
Joined: Tue Jan 20, 2004 4:06 pm
Location: Nelson

Postby Logan » Fri May 11, 2007 9:27 am

.
.
.
Last edited by Logan on Fri May 11, 2007 5:38 pm, edited 1 time in total.
SR Sold. Onto Other Things
Logan
Toyspeed Member
 
Posts: 889
Joined: Wed Jun 12, 2002 10:22 am
Location: Christchurch

Postby vvega » Fri May 11, 2007 5:11 pm

i woudl have thought overlap wuld hae been a requirement
vvega
 

Previous

Return to Tech Questions

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: Google [Bot] and 11 guests