4AGE Tuning Options

[Cahuna]

After blowing the motor in the Corolla back in February I sourced a 2nd hand smallport as a direct replacement (thanks Escortman!) and it recently had its first outing at Tauranga Rally. Unfortunately either the new motor is a little down on power compared to the old one or I'm just getting used to the power that the car has. Either way I'm keen to get a bit more power out of the car without spending too much money.

So, I'm looking for cheap and simple things that I can do to give the motor a bit of a hurry-up. I've done a whole lot of reading to get ideas and I can't seem to find anywhere that can definitively say A works or B works so it is high time to turn to you, the Toyspeed gurus!

My thoughts are:
* New cams. Many people have said that bluetop cams drop straight in and give an improvement in torque. Is it worth the time/effort/money doing this or would I be better off spending a little more on some proper after-market cams (and if so, what would people recommend)?
* Is it worth spending money on adjustable cam wheels to tweak the timing on what is basically a standard motor?
* I already have a pod filter and extractors (and am working on a cold air box for it). Are there any other cheap/simple mods I can make?
* Is there much scope for improving torque by fiddling with the ignition timing (moving the dizzy)? Presumably if I get the above it would be worthwhile putting the car on a dyno to get everything timed correctly?
* Are there any other ideas for performance improvements? (eg: one site suggested using synthetic oil instead of mineral as it has lower friction - would this make a noticable difference?)

The aim is for more torque for minimal outlay, at this stage I'm more interested in keeping the standard computer etc and spending the money on entry fees Motor is a standard smallport 16v, budget realistically up to around $500-$600. More torque and/or a wider powerband would be the ideal outcome - outright power isn't important. And no I'm not expecting to build the worlds biggest hp 4AGE, I'm just looking for how to best spend my meagre budget to get a return.

Thoughts? Ideas?

[matt dunn]

I am not an expert by my thoughts would be,

Dont fit bluetop cams as that is a trick on the Bigport GZE's.

Camwheels maybe an advantage but only if you would be prepared to pay way more than your budget on getting them dialed in on a dyno.

Ignition timming may be your biggest gain,
but you will need to run good fuel to make the most of it as if your running the smallport ECU (which you should be) it will have a knock sensor,

Oil I cannot imagine making a noticeable difference.

Matt

[Cahuna]

Thanks for the advice Matt.

Yep I'm running the standard smallport computer and run the car on Mobil 98 octane for 99% of the time. Presumably to adjust the timing it is just a matter of playing with the dizzy (ie: is the computer going to compensate for any movement in the dizzy)? Yes the motor does have a knock sensor. And as long as I mark everything so I can put it back if I have problems it sounds like something even a mechanical noob like me can try!

Also another thought I had last night, do the smallports (from a Jap import) have an O2 sensor in the exhaust? And if they are supposed to will it make much of a difference if it is missing? Mine has never had one since I bought the (old) car.

[johntramp]

o2 sensor is for lowering emissions. i would be trying to make the car lighter if possible

[Cahuna]

o2 sensor is for lowering emissions. i would be trying to make the car lighter if possible

Damn, I guess that means I have to go back on my diet then... it will probably be the cheapest and easiest way to get 30kg out of the car

[RedMist]

Thanks for the advice Matt.

Also another thought I had last night, do the smallports (from a Jap import) have an O2 sensor in the exhaust? And if they are supposed to will it make much of a difference if it is missing? Mine has never had one since I bought the (old) car.

I dont know if the smallport does have a O2 sensor, however it should be an easy check. If its missing the ECU should bring up the sensor code. In addition most ECUs will go richen the mix and retard the ignition timing in order to ensure no engine damage is incurred during a sensor failure. As such, if its bringing up a code you should correct it, it can potentially give you substancially more power.
Considering your budget I'd be trying to make everything as good stock as you can. New leads, cap, plugs. There unfortunately isnt a hidden secret switch to double the power.

By the way the O2 sensor isnt for lowering emissions. Its for getting the mixture semi correct considering the fuel, weight of the car, use of throttle, age of engine, etc. By getting the mixture correct, and producing more power you may incidentally reduce emissions, but its certainly not the goal of introducing an O2 sensor into the equation.

[Caveman]

hey chris

smallports have o2 sensor, I think I have one here you can have however it may be difficults putting it on your custom exhaust, will need a flange and ill weld it on for you

500-600 can buy a silvertop 20V, ill probably get one of those or a blacktop WHEN i destroy my smallport. From what I have seen on dyno and from what ive driven, they are similar in peak power but 20v's seem to have a wider power band (average punch at low revs)

[Cahuna]

Awesome, I might just take you up on that offer Dylan

I have considered swapping to a 20v (there is a blacktop I can get for a pretty good price) but being a complete noob at wiring and other installation issues I've decided to steer clear of that for now... I don't want the car to be a monument for the next 6 months!

RedMist, I'm not getting the check engine light coming on when the car is running but that isn't to say that the check engine light is necessarily hooked up to the computer correctly (long story... ) I guess that is something else I should check. Hadn't really considered plug leads etc - I thought that they either worked or not. Might just invest in some new ones as the ones on there at the moment certainly aren't new.

And oh for one of those 'double my power please' switches... I think it's also known as 'adjustable boost'??

[Caveman]

Awesome, I might just take you up on that offer Dylan

I have considered swapping to a 20v (there is a blacktop I can get for a pretty good price) but being a complete noob at wiring and other installation issues I've decided to steer clear of that for now... I don't want the car to be a monument for the next 6 months!

RedMist, I'm not getting the check engine light coming on when the car is running but that isn't to say that the check engine light is necessarily hooked up to the computer correctly (long story... ) I guess that is something else I should check. Hadn't really considered plug leads etc - I thought that they either worked or not. Might just invest in some new ones as the ones on there at the moment certainly aren't new.

And oh for one of those 'double my power please' switches... I think it's also known as 'adjustable boost'??

no problem youll have to tell me more about this blacktop, send me pm please if budget allows im going to have to buy it

[pc]

Will a raise in compression give more torque in a red top? it did in my bluetop. I would suggest dynoing your engine so that you can then dyno again after making changes and see what the differences are.

I don't think anything noticable can be done for $500 - $600... a lighter flywheel maybe? lightening the car would be the best hp/dollar return.

[KinLoud]

You don't necessarily need a dyno to check changes/improvements.

You can drive it in a quiet stretch of straight road in say 2nd gear, at 2000rpm stamp on the gas and then get a passenger (if there is a seat for them) to time from 3000 to 7000rpm. Get them to practise the timing so it is as consistent as possible... or even video it so you can check the timing later at home.
Time 4 runs (2 each way) on the same stretch of road starting at the same point each time to avoid problems with uphill/downhill stretches
Make the change to engine/timing/intake etc. then repeat the process on the same stretch of road.
Try to keep everything as much the same each time as you can:
- same tyres
- same weight (within 5kgs I guess)
- same amount of engine warmup
- repeat the process as soon as you can after the changes are made so weather (temp, pressure, humdity, wind) is the same or very similar.
- only change one thing at a time so you know if it was worse or better.

I have done this on my racecar a couple of years ago.
e.g. replace radiator fan with electric fan average time from 3000rpm to 7000rpm went from 4.5 seconds to 4.3 seconds. Well worth the free horsepower!
New intake and filter had a similar result. 4.3 to 4.1 seconds. The standard intake and filter on my AA63 carina was pretty crap... don't expect the same sort of results from a newer car.

Ken
Ham
021 408 863

[escortman]

hey yeh when it was in the car it did have a oxy sensor in the exhaust

[Cahuna]

Ahh KinLoud, that brings back a whole lot of childhood memories... Sitting next to Dad while he tuned the old Escort, hours of accelerating, stopping, moving the timing or changing a jet in the carb, accelerating, stopping etc etc... Then there was his method of working out whether the car was running too rich or too lean - put the jets in, drive to within 3km of our racing venue, stop and look at the colour of the exhaust, work out if it was too rich or lean and change jets appropriately!

[Mr Revhead]

as mentioned dont fit bigport cams
has been dyno proven to loose power.

dont run a stock blacktop... it wont last!

[bluemaumau]

what about bigport cams into ae101 gzes(smallport)

[Mr Revhead]

s/c appears to be different
a lot of ppl have done it for claimed gains
never seen any dyno plots though

[AceSniper]

some mild/rally cams are decent at bringing more torque through quite a wide rpm range, you would have to talk to franklin/csl/kiwicams/kelford see what they have to say, depends what will run on the stock ecu... if you go that way look at a .5mm HG to raise comp

[big_boy]

Then there was his method of working out whether the car was running too rich or too lean - put the jets in, drive to within 3km of our racing venue, stop and look at the colour of the exhaust, work out if it was too rich or lean and change jets appropriately!

that dousent work the same any more dew to the lack of lead in out petrol

also O2 sensor i have found dousent bring up check engin light on most toyotas but it douse show up in a dignastocs scan

[matt dunn]

Then there was his method of working out whether the car was running too rich or too lean - put the jets in, drive to within 3km of our racing venue, stop and look at the colour of the exhaust, work out if it was too rich or lean and change jets appropriately!

that dousent work the same any more dew to the lack of lead in out petrol

also O2 sensor i have found dousent bring up check engin light on most toyotas but it douse show up in a dignastocs scan

Almost no cars will bring up a check light for a faulty O2 sensor,
they will just log a code,

unless the heater circuit fails and is monitored.

Maybe less than 10% of Pre 2001 models.

[big_boy]

i relise that matt that was a responce to that talkling about haveing a O2 sensour witch i for got to quote

RedMist, I'm not getting the check engine light coming on when the car is running but that isn't to say that the check engine light is necessarily hooked up to the computer correctly (long story... ) I guess that is something else I should check.