Replacing rear pads - ae101

[20v_rollaboy]

Hey there, Ive tried replacing my rear pads but with no success:(

Taken complete brake assembly off, and can get old pads out. When i try and push the "round thingy" back into the cavity, it just wont budge. Ive tried taking the handbrake spring off aswell, but that didnt help at all.


Anyone have any suggestions??

[Leon]

You may find that they wind in (as in rotate), rather than push in.

[20v_rollaboy]

Oh really? I didnt know that. Will have to try after work on friday.

Clockwise or anti-clockwise??

[andyztouring]

2 ways of pushing the piston back in,release the brake bleeder and push the piston back in or use a disc braker spreader to push piston back in. (disc brake spreader on special at supercheap now,$11)

[20v_rollaboy]

Yes, Ive removed bleeding nipple and brake line and drained all fluid out, but still wasnt able to push it in. I didnt try turning it though...

[andyztouring]

Turning it wont push it back in.Not very likely its threaded is it ?

[20v_rollaboy]

No, didnt seem to be a thread on it, but its been suggested so I`ll give it a try, as nothing else works.

Might it be siezed? Handbrake works fine though, and when I move the handbrake lever on the caliper, the piston moves in and out about 10mm, but wont go back in completely.

[andyztouring]

It can take a lot of pressure to push the piston back in,I`ve always used a disc brake spreader,saves a lot of swearing etc

[20v_rollaboy]

Will pick one up tomorrow then. Lots of swearing was involved as I had to put old pads back in

Supacheap FTW

[big_boy]

No, didnt seem to be a thread on it, but its been suggested so I`ll give it a try, as nothing else works.

Might it be siezed? Handbrake works fine though, and when I move the handbrake lever on the caliper, the piston moves in and out about 10mm, but wont go back in completely.

dont do this ^^ you never press the break peddel or move the hand break while the pads & disks ant propley in place (1) it pulls all the crap from the edges of the piston you never use in to it (2) you can push it out 2 far especcaly on the hand break were it pushes on an angle & you will cock the piston slightly & it will become a right c**t to get back in or out & will stuff your seals

also you wont see the thread ect but if its a screw type it will have a way of showing this like we notches to use a winding tool on or a slot etc

[sergei]

DO NOT PUSH IT IN!!!
I have seen it done numerous times, and the results of it (seized callipers), on AE the rear brake callipers have thread inside to accommodate self adjusting handbrake mechanism. If you tried to push it in with either - vice, hammer, press, I would suggest to disassemble the calliper and see if the actual mechanism is not damaged, I also would suggest looking in the manual how to disassemble it properly (and replace seals while at it). The screw inside should be lubricated by special grease (which comes with the seal kit).

Anyway just screw it in - if you notice, the calliper has lugs just for that (if you compare it to the front ones you will see the difference).

[AceSniper]

should screw back in

pushing it will fuk it, they are setup like this for the handbrake, not the same as the fronts

[Bling]

explains why I occasionally get pulled up with WOF for unbalanced rear brakes I pushed mine back in, just thought that was the go....

is it ok to push the fronts in tho?

and likely cost to get rear calipers rebuilt? I'm keen but don't have manual / balls to fix my own brakes

[20v_rollaboy]

I didnt put it in the vice or press. Just tried pushing it in by hand.

I didnt pull it out either, just noticed that it moved with the handbrake lever.

Thanks everyone for the replies, now I know what to do


PS: bleeding brakes- rear passenger*rear driver*front passenger*front driver??

[big_boy]

is it ok to push the fronts in tho?

fronts are made to be pushed. its the hand break adjuster the needs the screw system

and likely cost to get rear calipers rebuilt? I'm keen but don't have manual / balls to fix my own brakes

well as a gess it was $45 a side for seal kits for my supra rears & it took me arround an 1-1/2hrs a side but i was changeing lines ect as well i would say if you took them off & took them in it would be about 1-2hrs labour max

[Bling]

sweet cheers for that.

[Bumpy]

I had the same problem with my Glanza. Didnt know you had to screw the rear pistons back in.

Just went to repco and got the tool, look like an aluminium rubix cube with knobs off it. And use your small 3/8" drive socket set to turn it in.

[darkwolf]

PS: bleeding brakes- rear passenger*rear driver*front passenger*front driver??

Far as I remember it's the furthest to closest from the brake booster. So if your brake booster is in front of the drivers wheel then it's
RP->RD->FP->FD.

Otherwise

RD->RP->FD->FP.

Assuming that nobody has an ae with a brake booster in the boot...