Track Alignment Settings

[BigDon]

Has anyone else got an ae111 track car or can offer some comments on the following wheel alignment specs:

Rear camber: -1.5 degrees
Rear toe: 1mm toe out both sides, total toe out =2mm
Front camber: -2.0 degrees
Front toe: 1.5mm toe out both sides, total toe out = 3mm
Caster: +2-4 degrees postive

When you talk about toe you talk about each side and total is this the same for camber, so if you had -2 degree negative camber would you expect this to mean -1+-1 each side or -2 each side.

Suspension set up is:

TRD front sway bar 28mm, 57% higher spring rate
TRD front sway bar 19.1mm, 27% higher spring rate
TRD coilovers with 78.4NM front springs and 58.8NM rear springs
Eccentirc camber bolts in the rear
TRD 3 way front brace
Cusco 4 point under body brace

Wheels and tyres if it matters:

Drys: Advanti CPO35's 15X6.5, Dunlop DZO2G's 205/50/15

Wets: Speedline 16X7's, Goodyear F!-GSD3 205/45/16

[ChaosAD]

Ive found that toeout on the rear is no good for road/rally etc as the back is too unstable on the bumpy roads. Would be all good on a smooth track though.

[KinLoud]

What sort of driving will the car be doing? Track/street/rally (gravel)/rally (tarmac)
Who recommended toe out front and back? - Some people setup their car like this to "get better turn in" My comment would be that there would have to be some big problems in other areas for toe out to improve your handling.

Presuming your suspension spring rates and swaybar rates are a good combination I would guess a AE111 setup for the track might like:
Front toe in (toe is measured in total toe) 2mm
Rear toe in 2mm
Front camber -3 degrees (measured per side not total)
Rear camber - 1.5 degrees
Front castor - as much as you can manage... 6 to 8 degrees could work well.
If you balance the car properly with spring rate and swaybar you won't need toe out to make it turn in.

A big increase in front swaybar compared to rear could create understeer. It's all about balance not size.

Ken
Ham
021 408 863

[diss7]

Unless I'm blind, you havn't mentioned a rear tower brace...

If not there, get one.

[BigDon]

Car spends its time at manfield but it will do some road work when the cage is in. Interesting comment about the toe, from what Ive read toe out is the way to go for turn in, what does toe in give you? apart from taking off some straight line speed as any toe in/out does...doesnt it?

I dont have a rear brace, no one makes one for the car and I have been told it will be of little to no benefit plus plan on getting a cage shortly.

[diss7]

You're right about the cage, but saying that IMO still worthwile having one.

In my siliva it still makes a difference having the rear brace ( I have a half cage)

I understand it as the the cage is bracing the body, the strut brace is holding the coilovers.

Maybe apples and oranges.

And to answer your question, when you talk suspension, you're talking about one wheel. ie -2degrees rear camber is per wheel.

[strx7]

you can incorperate a rear brace into the cage at the bottom of the rear stays, depending on car it can also double as a harness mounting bar

[ChaosAD]

bigdon: did you read about the toeout on the whiteline site?

They reccmended toe out on the rear in the alignment specs I got with my handling kit (ae82)

[BigDon]

Chaos AD: Yeah I did read about the toe out on the whiteline site, Im figuring that as both cars are FWD there should be some similarity in alignment settings/behaviour.... or not?

I would put a rear brace on it if I could buy one off the shelf for the car. In your siliva it probably makes a big difference due to RWD and more flex in the back. Where the rear struts are in the levin there is a natural brace from tower to tower due to the rear structure of the car and it having a proper boot (rather than hatch) but yeah if I could get one I woudl have one lol.

Does anyone perhaps have a link to some info so I can have a read up and stop being a novice?