Matty104 wrote:i'd be in heaven if i got 500 km i think
likewise around town...
I managed over 500km on a tank driving from Christchurch to Motueka (plus other driving) with a boot / back seat full of piss, food and camping gear with a mate. So it is possible
if you have free time 12mm spanner/socket with ratchet, jack, some safety equipment (jack stands, stumps bricks, concrete blocks), and butane torch, you can try and clean your oxygen sensor.
Remove sensor (pretty straight forward). But it in some kind of vice (vice the flange of the sensor not the body of it). Heat the sensing area with the butane torch until it is bright red hot and keep it like that for 2-5min. let it cool down, all the crap on it should flake off by that time.
Put it back in, reset ECU and measure OX1 voltage. Should fluctuate between ~1V (+/- 200mV) and 0V about 8 times in 10 seconds or more. Fluctuations are the result of the ECU constantly adjusting mixture. It does in error and trial way as these sensor have quiet steep hysteresis.
If the voltage is not fluctuating and is stuck at 1V it means that something causing ECU into overfueling. ECU can only compensate maximum 20% of the fuel correction from factory map. If it is stuck at 1V it will clog again after a while. If ECU is out of that 20% range it will run in open loop (like it does under full throttle, or low coolant temp).
The cause of that could be something simple like stuck thermostat, or faulty water temp sensor (unlikely, but possible), or wrong timing (too much advance - causing detonation - which causes ECU to overfuel and retard ignition), cam timing - either cam/crank shaft jumped a tooth or somebody did not install it right in first place (with one tooth out on exhaust cam, it will still run fine, but will be slightly under powered and cause all sorts of issues, because the camshaft and ignition timing runs off that shaft). Even wrongly set Throttle sensor can cause ECU going into open loop.
wow thats alot of info to take in , kind of understand, i will have a go at resetting the codes at some stage and try elominate that and get back to you , and then get on to cleaning the oxy sensor
just reset the error codes and went for a drive around the block then tested again and had no error codes, so will get round to cleaning that oxy sensor early next week, and add injector cleaner at the same time
about 2.5 to 3 kms in the morning before its at that level, just had a quik look under the car and from what i could reach the wires that go to the oxy sensor seemd to b just hanging and the grommets that connect it to the body (or what ever they secure to) wernt connected to anything,planning on doing the sensor tomorow morning,
just while im here , im lowering my car with adjustables, where would the lowest part of the body be that they measure from? the rails that run down kindof under the seats, or the rails that you lift up with the jack?
hey guys, just cleand the oxy sensor , reset everything , drove round and did the voltage and codes again and its still all exactly the same,, no codes , 2v accross vf1 and 0 accross ox1
from completely empty to completely full is about 70.5L on a ST205.
My first fill up was 69.8L, I barely made it to gas station. My ST205 consumes about 12L/100Km btw. My AE101 does about 8-9L/100Km with similar driving.
My ST165 does 15-25L/100Kms (err did, now it is in the garage with wiring sticking out like guts from samurai who just committed sepuku), but it has (had) got a bit more power.
Back on the topic. If you are measuring right, (Voltmeter set to right voltage range ie 2.0V max) if the OX1 voltage is 0 all the time it means your oxygen sensor is dead. Before dishing out $340 for a new one just make sure you are measuring right and there is no fault in your wiring. Remember how you cleaned it? You can test it at same time, while heating up measure the voltage across white and blue wires on the oxygen sensor it should read approx 1V constantly (or -1V depending on polarity).
the volt meter was a automatic one so it should adjust to whatever i connect it to shouldn't it? is a pretty expensive one.
i will have a go cleaning and testing it again when i have some spare time,
i assume when you say test it while heating it, it (the wires) doesn't need to be connected to the car?
was fun though.
that is on 1 full tank to get to Wellington - when I was poor student.
