Question for the FAQ? superstrut

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Question for the FAQ? superstrut

Postby GTCRSHR » Mon Sep 10, 2007 11:54 am

Sorry if this is in the wrong place, move /delete as appropriate

but...

I was trying to look for information on the superstrut yesterday, but couldnt really come up with what i was after,

and considering there are so many posts about superstrut wouldnt it be good for a FAQ ? 90% of people that own a superstrut car on here will have a question on it as some stage,

so why not something like,

What parts need to be replaced and why?

how much (roughly do the parts cost)

What symptoms do each part that is failing/failed produce ?

Genuine vs. BNT equivilent and why the later fails so eaily etc,

a detailed description on how to change each bit ? what tools are needed what to look out for etc

good idea? i am not clued up enough on the subject to do one otherwise i would be more than happy to put something together
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Postby Luke28 » Mon Sep 10, 2007 6:34 pm

sounds an alright idea to me...
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Postby Mr Revhead » Mon Sep 10, 2007 6:42 pm

yes good idea.

i can provide EPC pics of the components to any one wanting to write up how to do it (i personally havnt done it)

TGP one last longer as they are better. simple really... aftermarkets ones are made cheaply. even some a while ago that BNT had in toyota packaging... they wernt toyota ones.
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Postby soven » Mon Sep 10, 2007 9:01 pm

Recently changed one side of my celica's superstrut. (thanks Revhead for parts). Just going to write some stuff I found. Parts from Revhead is much much cheaper than from Toyota so do make the effort to contact him. Toyota quoted $640 for the figure8 and lower arm. Labour was $180.

Symptoms :
Loud knock when going over any bumps, even minor ones.

Diagnosis:
Jack car up and I can move the wheel forwards and back(parallel to car).
I can also hold the bottom of the strut and twist it. It should not have any play, if it does... the superstrut has problems.

Ended up changing the figure8 and the lower arm as those are the ones that go out. The banana arm is rarely the cause. I also changed the "collar" or banana arm bush?

Some gt4 owners have reported that they solved their knocking problem by just changing the collar which is a $16 part. To check whether it is the collar causing the problem, park on a flat land. Put it into neutral and then get out of the car and try to move the wheel. You should be able to see movement where the banana arm is bolted to the car.
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Postby Lloyd » Mon Sep 10, 2007 10:05 pm

Mr Revhead wrote:
TGP one last longer as they are better. simple really... aftermarkets ones are made cheaply. even some a while ago that BNT had in toyota packaging... they wernt toyota ones.


Have seen them at BNT also in TGP packaging, even sealed still with TGP part numbers on.
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Postby Mr Revhead » Mon Sep 10, 2007 11:25 pm

HRT wrote:
Mr Revhead wrote:
TGP one last longer as they are better. simple really... aftermarkets ones are made cheaply. even some a while ago that BNT had in toyota packaging... they wernt toyota ones.


Have seen them at BNT also in TGP packaging, even sealed still with TGP part numbers on.


correction, fake TGP packaging :wink:
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Postby rolla_fxgt » Tue Sep 11, 2007 10:53 am

Mr Revhead wrote:
HRT wrote:
Mr Revhead wrote:
TGP one last longer as they are better. simple really... aftermarkets ones are made cheaply. even some a while ago that BNT had in toyota packaging... they wernt toyota ones.


Have seen them at BNT also in TGP packaging, even sealed still with TGP part numbers on.


correction, fake TGP packaging :wink:


Shouldn't toyota be laying a can of legal wipass on them then?
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Postby Mr Revhead » Tue Sep 11, 2007 11:07 am

they are aware of it, and have been for some time.
as to what they are doing about it i have no idea.
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Postby GTCRSHR » Wed Sep 12, 2007 11:46 am

so does any one have any thing to add to this, or does every one just like putting use the seach after every post that gets asked
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Postby sergei » Wed Sep 12, 2007 11:47 am

Well if we going to have prices for AE101/111, might help as well to have for ST205/6...
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Postby GTCRSHR » Wed Sep 12, 2007 12:12 pm

Is there any difference between the Ae101/111 and st205/206 superstrut

either the parts or the way it works :?: part numbers would be good for both ae and st :?:
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Postby sergei » Wed Sep 12, 2007 12:14 pm

I am sure that dimensions would be different but will be same design.
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Postby GTCRSHR » Wed Sep 12, 2007 12:23 pm

is any one planning on changing/replacing their superstrut parts soon,? if so would be good to get some pictures of the various stages ... or if any one has pictures already ?
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Postby Punter » Wed Sep 12, 2007 2:39 pm

I have a few pics of when I did mine.
I pulled the whole subframe out as I was doing a bit of other work but they'll still be helpful.

It's not a hard job, and If you really need "paint by numbers" instructions then you probably shouldn't be touching suspension components.

That said, a simple write up with photos, symptoms and prices would be good.
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Postby GTCRSHR » Wed Sep 12, 2007 3:58 pm

Punter wrote:That said, a simple write up with photos, symptoms and prices would be good.


That would be great,

It sounds like its a peice of piss to replace the various components, but as all things - there are always little niggles that people come across and tricks that help get something out or in when it looks like it might not work,

or is it a case of pull the old one out and slot the new one in ? easy as pie?
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Postby sergei » Wed Sep 12, 2007 4:02 pm

What I found with superstrut bits, that sometimes some of the things will not come off easily, even under very heavy bashing...
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Postby GTCRSHR » Wed Sep 12, 2007 5:52 pm

sergei wrote:What I found with superstrut bits, that sometimes some of the things will not come off easily, even under very heavy bashing...


care to elaborate ?
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Postby Punter » Wed Sep 12, 2007 7:56 pm

Found that too, just kept getting a bigger hammer until it came apart.

For me it was the large joints on the front bottom arm, the one that connects to the bottom of the strut.
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