clutches - non-asbestos vs metal

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clutches - non-asbestos vs metal

Postby barryogen » Thu Sep 27, 2007 11:04 am

Can someone tell me the dis/advantages and differences of the two?

Price seems to be minimally different, so if one is heaps better then I'll grab it.
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Postby Akane » Thu Sep 27, 2007 2:15 pm

By non-abestos I assume you're talking about Kevlar and Organic stuff.

I have used ceramic/metallic/whatever you call it. The shiney stuff on a puck, that stuff wears your flywheel and pressure plate down, but damn it grips.

I have a TRD "sports clutch" which is a round disc, been told it's a Kevlar material, when I ride that clutch (ie: to get up wildcard's driveway), it gives a burnt clutch smell, not good, wears quite fast too but doesn't wear the flywheel and clutch plate. Grippage is ok but I don't really do clutch dumps anymore.
No "stance", no "hellaflush", none of that bullshit. Nothing but no grip on full boost.
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Postby barryogen » Thu Sep 27, 2007 3:09 pm

Basically I don't know about clutches at all...
I had a read through this page.
http://www.cusco.co.jp/en/parts_product/products/twin_plate_clutch_system_and_m.html
Which gave me a rough idea about them, but I'm still just starting to learn.

I just figure that reading and buying the right one now is cheaper than buying one now and then buying the right one later.
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Postby AceSniper » Thu Sep 27, 2007 4:01 pm

pends how hard you want it to grip... and norm the tradeoff is wearing the flywheel an stuff.... with your TRD fly you will want Organic.. or better Kevlar

Also rember the better the clutch grips the worse off your engine and gearbox will be (spesh your 6speed)... Id rather change a clutch than buy gearbox's, flywheels an stuff
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Postby barryogen » Thu Sep 27, 2007 5:13 pm

AceSniper wrote:pends how hard you want it to grip... and norm the tradeoff is wearing the flywheel an stuff.... with your TRD fly you will want Organic.. or better Kevlar

Also rember the better the clutch grips the worse off your engine and gearbox will be (spesh your 6speed)... Id rather change a clutch than buy gearbox's, flywheels an stuff


Funnily enough that is pretty much where I had got to in my reading... I think that Revhead can probably take it from here, email sending in a few mins.
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Postby hsmidy » Thu Sep 27, 2007 7:31 pm

if you dont wanta $&#$% stuff just make sure you get a sprung clutch
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Postby AceSniper » Thu Sep 27, 2007 8:03 pm

hsmidy wrote:if you dont wanta $&#$% stuff just make sure you get a sprung clutch


thats not the only factor
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Postby TRD Man » Thu Sep 27, 2007 9:59 pm

Performance clutches should not necessarilly be hard on other gear if installed and used correctly.

The key to not burning out your TRD clutch is install the TRD pressure plate at the same time.

Since the very 1st 2zzge Corolla (Sportivo) was sold in Australia we supplied TOM'S flywheels together with TRD pressue & clutch plates to that market.
They reported smoother uptake and running and no adverse reports about wear.
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Postby AceSniper » Thu Sep 27, 2007 10:09 pm

your meaning TRD organic style....?
Im thinking harsher than that...

the 2zz uses the same clutch as a 212mm 4age eh? if so I know of some decent street options
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Postby hsmidy » Thu Sep 27, 2007 10:48 pm

AceSniper wrote:
hsmidy wrote:if you dont wanta $&#$% stuff just make sure you get a sprung clutch


thats not the only factor


yeah i know its not the only factor but it is a big one when it comes to saving ya driveline(especially if you like to dump the clutch etc)
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Postby matt dunn » Fri Sep 28, 2007 1:41 am

a wouldn't think a sprung clutch will have much effect when "dumping the clutch" as you reach the end of the travel of the springs pretty quick.

In my experience with sprung and unsprung, the difference is on cruise and over-run where the force of the crank rocks back and forth at high frequency as the engine drives the car and then the car drives the engine each time a cylinder fires.

I had a solid centre in my EVO for a bit and the noises that came from the gearbox on cruise and light over-run were enough for me to take it out in about 3 weeks and return to a std plate.
Sounded like an exhaust rattle, and the Evo rally guy's i talked to said they get the same in there rally cars with the sold centres and the chatter away and damage the cluster, so they were replacing them once a season.

I put a std plate in mine and the noise went away and never had a problem since.
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Postby solitaire » Fri Sep 28, 2007 1:50 pm

Akane wrote:(ie: to get up wildcard's driveway)
:lol: Which one?
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Postby barryogen » Fri Sep 28, 2007 2:09 pm

ok, well, I don't tend to dump the clutch, nor do I intend to do it in the future.

TRD clutch, pressure plate, and flywheel(and LSD if money allows) will all be going in at once, it just makes sense.

I guess what I'm after is the always elusive, as strong as possible, but still keeping as much stock feel as possible, and not likely to brake anything without some serious abuse.

From chatting to a few people, the TRD item(s) should give me what I'm after.

Thanks for the education guys.
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Postby Caveman » Wed Oct 03, 2007 10:35 am

Ive always found with organic clutch is after lots of ruff shifting on circuit/rally they tend to loose their grip lol. Much prefer ceramic puk clutch with heavy pressure plate for reliability and durability.
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Postby AceSniper » Wed Oct 03, 2007 12:37 pm

for the lsd you almost may aswell buy a bzr box put the lsd in yours and have a box incase yours gives up
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Postby barryogen » Wed Oct 03, 2007 1:05 pm

AceSniper wrote:for the lsd you almost may aswell buy a bzr box put the lsd in yours and have a box incase yours gives up


Yeah, I had read that the C160 and C60 are the same ratio etc... and it should bolt right up so to speak.

One thing that I don't understand is most things I have read about the swap, they mention that one is 12 disc (C160) and one is 8 Disc (C60)... what does that mean?

From reading it seems that the C160 is stronger too.

Actually, I'm not too sure I have my codes right for the GBs... might have to re-check.
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