Rust kill now with pics....

[FST4RD]

In a vain attempt i suppose you would call it i'm trying to sort out all the rust in my AW11 before is starts to go through the metal completly. Basically just finding the surface rust (luckily it's only that for the mean time) and the sanding or using my dremel to buff it back to nice shiny metal and then spraying it with the orangey anti corrosive stuff. don't care to much for the paint and dots of this orange stuff all over the show.
But it says on the can Rust kill action?
What exactly does this mean? does it mean that if i don't get all the rust that it will take care of the rest? the can doesn't exactly elaborate...
I just want to get rid of the rust for now so that I can drive it with a bit of piece of mind that it's not going to rerust where i have done until i got the money for a bare metal respray and then get it properly rust proffed.

[Mr Revhead]

safest way is to remove all traces of rust.

with AW11s, surface rust is often what shows after its started rusting from the inside out

[Bling]

go to spray store on St Asaph St i think it is, get a starter kit of POR15 and use that instead of a spray can. I'd trust it a LOT more

[FST4RD]

Yeah i know... I discovered that it seems to be rusting where there are double layers of metal....
I'm no rocket scientist but even i know this would be a weak point....
It's no bubling yet so fingers crossed I can get all the rust before it disolves back into the earth from where it came

[FST4RD]

go to spray store on St Asaph St i think it is, get a starter kit of POR15 and use that instead of a spray can. I'd trust it a LOT more

Yeah i read about this stuff.... can't get it off unless you sand the stuff off, not even paint stripper or anything will get it off.... kinda want to paint the car eventually....

[Dell'Orto]

You can paint over the top of POR15. Its awesome stuff.

[FST4RD]

Anyone got a price for POR15?
So i take it you still got to grind back to shiny bare metal and then put this stuff on top and the rust shouldn't come through again?

[Trls250s]

Dont get rid of the rust, its whats holding your toyota together.

AW11, KExx, AE8x

[Dell'Orto]

Anyone got a price for POR15?
So i take it you still got to grind back to shiny bare metal and then put this stuff on top and the rust shouldn't come through again?

Trade price was $40 odd + for 500ml of gray, 1 litre is about $50+. Nope, just wire brush off the loose rust and paint over it.
Paint Over Rust

[Rick]

Nope, just wire brush off the loose rust and paint over it.
Paint Over Rust ;)

Not 100% correct, you can just paint over the rust, but for better results you can get a POR15 kit, or buy separately "Metal Ready" which neutralizes any rust and allows better adhesion of POR15. But I personally like removing rust completely by cutting it out and welding in new panels..

[FST4RD]

Painting over the rust... seems to easy... neutrilising it seems like a bloody good idea.

Will painting it over non rusted areas like in the boot where water flicks up and starting to get some surface rusting prevent the begining of rust?

[Caveman]

POR15 is good. Its ultra tough, which is its good point but...

but unless you 100% seal the rust effected area its usless

You need to take off all the paint around the area so your going over bare metal and rust. The cyanide hardener in the POR15 contracts as it sets and it can pull the original paint from the metal allowing water to get in under the paint.

Its really good for straight over metal and rust. Do many thin coats so the contraction is less obvious.

With an aw11 you want to check under the side skirts, under the panels each side of the engine lid and behind the drivers side front quarter panel to name a few common rust spots.

[FST4RD]

Right so ideally the thing to do would be take the whole car back to bare metal and then cover the car from head to toe in the stuff and fingers crossed you would then have a relitively rust free car...

[Caveman]

Right so ideally the thing to do would be take the whole car back to bare metal and then cover the car from head to toe in the stuff and fingers crossed you would then have a relitively rust free car...

I know motorsport competitors that do this. You can pre-treat the whole car with various acid baths then dip into zinc phosphate for ultimate paint adhesion. The respray the car and itll be 100%.

Although people who do this spend a lot of money...

I wish I had that much money

[Bling]

Anyone got a price for POR15?
So i take it you still got to grind back to shiny bare metal and then put this stuff on top and the rust shouldn't come through again?

as I said earlier

Go to spray store, get a POR15 starter kit, its around $25 I THINK, they give you instructions and you get everything you need.

actually, get a SUPER starter kit, its around $30 and has:

* 250mls of Marine Clean
* 250mls of Metal Ready
* 100mls POR 15 Rust Preventive Paint
* 2 Brushes
* Pair of Gloves
* Detail instructions to do the job right.

I did patches of the underside of my KP, the whole floor, engine bay patches etc and am impressed its holding. Backyard job ftw

[RED TOP MR 2]

check where the door meet the front guard, acutually may pay to them off.they rust out the a pillars good.was $200 to get mine welded up

[FST4RD]

The front of the car seems pretty fine, going to remove the front guards and bumper to make sure. Also under the side skirts is good! No rust However this car was stored in a car port with the rear end sticking out which leads me to believe why the front is mostly fine and back has more rust... here's a couple pics with the rear light, bumper etc removed.



It's not the end of the world, i can imagine with a decent grind weld and POR15 should be fine....

[hoppy]

I was always told...... "Doing a job? then do it well."
If you intend to keep it; cut and weld in new metal. treat the surrounding area with a quality rustkill. most of the stuff available turns rust into magnetite, a stable iron oxide. It pays to get rid of any remaining scale and neutralise first though and seal the area well after treatment.

Rust protectants? Prolan ( a lanolin product; and local ), LPS3 (my preference) or the good old "Fishoiline"(before they took the stink out)