caldina gtt manifold warping problem

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caldina gtt manifold warping problem

Postby gleem » Mon Feb 12, 2007 9:26 pm

Hi all just wondering for the people that have had this porblem or know people who did at what kms your manifold decide to shit itself. If the manifold + turbo hasnt been fixed is there anyway you stop the manifold from warping in the future? Going to take the heat cover off and have a look when i get time to see if mines been done, It's done 125,000kms so im hoping its been fixed in japan. Is the general concensis that it does happen on most or is it just a few that will experience this problem?

This is the thing i should of done before buying the car but after buying my gtt and reading the forums i found out about the problem :evil:
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Postby gleem » Tue Feb 13, 2007 8:04 pm

bump, surley there are more people out there that know roughly when this problem happens.. tried un bolting the heat shield but its too dam tight crc'd it and hopefully it will loosen things up for tomorrow.
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Postby evil_si » Wed Feb 14, 2007 9:23 pm

seems to happen to a few of them, becoming more common now as the cars are getting more popular and more kms on them

they missed out a bolt hole on the casting of the manifold some believe this is the reason.
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Postby gleem » Thu Feb 15, 2007 3:08 pm

and how much did that cost to do wildcat, im thinking about the bracket idea as i cant afford $1600 for a new turbo and manifold and they seem to go around the same kms that i have :(
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Postby gleem » Thu Feb 15, 2007 5:12 pm

also my turbo has some numbers engraved on it which may mean when the tubo was replaced i can make out a 3 and a 7 so it could mean it was replaced in 2003, does anyone else have any numbers on theres?
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Postby 99gtt » Thu Feb 15, 2007 9:22 pm

gleem wrote:also my turbo has some numbers engraved on it which may mean when the tubo was replaced i can make out a 3 and a 7 so it could mean it was replaced in 2003, does anyone else have any numbers on theres?
I doubt that your turbo would have been changed as the japs dont do enough k's in there cars , so dont encounter the problems. I can make you a bracket up for about $70
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Postby Phothog » Thu Feb 15, 2007 9:30 pm

gleem wrote:also my turbo has some numbers engraved on it which may mean when the tubo was replaced i can make out a 3 and a 7 so it could mean it was replaced in 2003, does anyone else have any numbers on theres?


Where are the numbers engraved on the turbo...?
most places that rebuild turbo stamp a number onto the compressor cover... so they can tell if it is one they have done in the past...
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Postby gleem » Thu Feb 15, 2007 9:33 pm

i'll take a photo off the numbers tomorrow, i wish i could find out myself but i have soaked the nuts in crc and snaped a socket trying to get it off.

and 99gtt my car was imported with 120,000 on the clock
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Postby Boosted_162 » Fri Feb 16, 2007 12:40 am

Phothog wrote:
gleem wrote:also my turbo has some numbers engraved on it which may mean when the tubo was replaced i can make out a 3 and a 7 so it could mean it was replaced in 2003, does anyone else have any numbers on theres?


Where are the numbers engraved on the turbo...?
most places that rebuild turbo stamp a number onto the compressor cover... so they can tell if it is one they have done in the past...


Is that what the numbers are about? I have some on my CT26...
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Postby Steve123 » Fri Feb 16, 2007 1:01 am

I think they will all do it eventually.

Ive seen them go at 80-90k, Ive done 2 both under 100k.

I fitted a replacment motor to one also. The old motor and the new one both had blown gaskets so they were warped but not yet causing a problem
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Postby Phothog » Fri Feb 16, 2007 8:35 am

Boosted_162 wrote:
Phothog wrote:
gleem wrote:also my turbo has some numbers engraved on it which may mean when the tubo was replaced i can make out a 3 and a 7 so it could mean it was replaced in 2003, does anyone else have any numbers on theres?


Where are the numbers engraved on the turbo...?
most places that rebuild turbo stamp a number onto the compressor cover... so they can tell if it is one they have done in the past...


Is that what the numbers are about? I have some on my CT26...


most companys stamp numbers in for record/warranty purposes
all of Alltech have a 5 digt number stamped into the compressor cover..
those numbers can tell you when the turbo was rebuilt & what was used.

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Postby Wildcard » Fri Feb 16, 2007 7:02 pm

I got the bracket added to my manifold and the whole thing planed flat again for $170.
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Postby gttNICK » Thu Oct 04, 2007 11:21 am

Sorry to dredge up an old post... but I am having a few issues with the manifold.

It was repaired a few months ago. It had damaged two of the studs and broke the thread in the associated holes in the head. They helicoiled the damaged thread, replaced the studs and planed the manifold flat. All was well for a few months but the same old noises are back when it is cold.

I took it back to them and they agreed to cover it as they had already taken money off me for it. They can't diagnose it without taking the manifold off again. But if they do and the problem is the helicoil didn't take, then it will not go back on again without a new head. The warranty does not cover the helicoil because it is not their parts.

So I am stuck between a rock and a hard place. Is the noise likely to be that the manifold has just warped again and the helicoils are sweet? Who knows... And if it was and they plain in flat again, what is to stop it happening again and again? Surely the manifold gets a bit thinner every time it is plained, making it more susceptible to warp??

Please offer your thoughts. And does anyone have a head lying around?
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Postby Mr Revhead » Thu Oct 04, 2007 11:26 am

yes if they just planned it, its quite likely the manifold.
but it could also be the helicoil.

planning the manifold and refitting is just a temporary band aid
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Postby mr_monkey » Thu Oct 04, 2007 12:55 pm

it should be noted that a helicoil produces a MUCH stronger thread than you'd otherwise have in an aluminum head. They are used by the military and in aerospace (planes are made predominately of aluminum) and even the aluminum mounting lugs on my heavy FMIC were fitted with helicoil-type inserts.

If done correctly they should not be considered a bandaid approach.

You guys should start looking at 3sgte tube manifolds off ebay. They don't fail nearly as much as your cast ones seem to.

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Postby Mr Revhead » Thu Oct 04, 2007 12:58 pm

the "band aid" refers to the planing of the manifold.
unless its replaced with a later one, or a clamp arrangement made up, it WILL warp again.
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Postby magnazan » Thu Oct 04, 2007 2:40 pm

What 'noise' is gttNICK talking about? I assume it would be pretty obvious when it becomes warped but what kind of things should i look for? (Mines done 140k)
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Postby gttNICK » Thu Oct 04, 2007 11:17 pm

magnazan wrote:What 'noise' is gttNICK talking about? I assume it would be pretty obvious when it becomes warped but what kind of things should i look for? (Mines done 140k)


the "tractor" noise everyone refers to. When the car is started cold it sounds like a rattling and when the throttle is blipped the noise is more prominent. IT goes away quick enough as the car warms up. Presumably the iron expands and the gap closes.


In regard to mr_monkey's comment on the strength of the helicoil... So should that mean it is safe to let them take the manifold off to investigate and not have to worry about it not going back on? Could the helicoil be sweet but the studs broke again?
I'm thinking my best option may be to let them take it off (and hopefully find in tact helicoils) flatten it, replace studs as neccessary and manufacture some kind of bracket. ??
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Postby Lloyd » Thu Oct 04, 2007 11:25 pm

As above, helicoil should be stronger than the original thread if anything.
Get them to take it off and repair it properly as they should have in the first place. Surely they could drill the helicoil out and put one size bigger in there if it is an issue?
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Postby magnazan » Fri Oct 05, 2007 8:43 am

Ahhh sounds like mine needs doing then :/
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