Hub locator rings

[method]

The wheels i got have holes larger than the hub locator ring.

So they are slightly out of alignment, the car jiggles around on the motorway

Would be funny to see.

IS there a easy way to fix this?

[Bling]

jiggles aye... take the car for a run down the motorway full of hot chicks, post video proof , then we'll think about an answer

on a side note, what size do you need? outside diameter of hub ring and inside diameter of wheel? someone might have something. I got 2 lying around so will check em

[Mr.Phreak]

Spigot rings

[method]

Not sure, hubs are a 1982 KE70, wheels are off a 1992 bluebird.

[Adoom]

The wheels i got have holes larger than the hub locator ring.

So they are slightly out of alignment, the car jiggles around on the motorway

Would be funny to see.

IS there a easy way to fix this?

Careful!! this can break wheel studs. And then how funny will it look when you wheel falls off on the motorway?
Get a vernier caliper and measure the hub location diameter and the inside diameter of the wheel hole. Then see if any wheel shops have any. If not find a machinist who can make them for you. Or you will die.

[Caribeena]

have you tried getting bigger lo0cating rings? mag and turbo can get them in.. i had to do this on my carib

[method]

I really doubt they will shear off, its the same as going over bumps.

Fatigue faliure is unlikely too...

Yeah, hub locators are quite expensive though, might just try centering it my self

[Punter]

Tapered wheel nuts should locate them in the center.

I've got a set of wheels that are 2~3mm bigger inside than my hub and they never vibrate.

Have seen a rally mr2 shear a wheel off because of this, although it was probably a combination of things.

[no_8wire]

I have run all my cars like this...never bothering to get locator rings etc...

Never had a problem (so far)

[Mr.Phreak]

I really doubt they will shear off, its the same as going over bumps.

Let's agree to disagree on that Especially if they've ever been tightened by a muppet who winds them up as hard as possible.

[d1 mule]

since when does the "locator" actually do anyting?. i no on all of my cars it has never been a tight fit. what about bolt on spacers they dont have locators nor are they a tight fit on the "locator" or even slip on spacers for that matter.

[method]

You'll find that spacers without a locater arn't road legal.

I used beveled wheel nuts, worked a charm!!

[TRD Man]

Method, you've been given good advice here - with pictures. Whether you choose to use it is up to you.

It is not the job of the studs, nor are they made, to take the lateral force you are asking of them.

Why come on this forum asking advice only to tell everybody that you know best when you simply can't be bothered following through on the advice given?

Most people do get away with what you are electing to do. But many don't.
And given that your hubs/studs are 25 years old I'd suggest you might be in the 'risky' category.

You're obviously proud of your car. Why not do the job properly?

[KinLoud]

I think that the centre hole and the hub centre makes sure that the wheel is concentric with the hub.
The wheels nuts clamp the wheel to the hub and it is the contact between the wheels face and the hub face that takes the load - this is why the centering rings can be made of plastic and do the job fine.

http://home.jtan.com/~joe/KIAT/kiat_1.htm

Ken
Ham
021 408 863

[method]

Method, you've been given good advice here - with pictures. Whether you choose to use it is up to you.

It is not the job of the studs, nor are they made, to take the lateral force you are asking of them.

Why come on this forum asking advice only to tell everybody that you know best when you simply can't be bothered following through on the advice given?

Most people do get away with what you are electing to do. But many don't.
And given that your hubs/studs are 25 years old I'd suggest you might be in the 'risky' category.

You're obviously proud of your car. Why not do the job properly?

Umm, i did. I used beveled wheel nuts as punter suggested as said in my last post which "worked a charm". It was meant as a thank you post.

I also warned people that most trademe wheel spacers are illegal on NZ roads because they don't have the locater ring.

What more could i have said???

And not really, its a cheap run about with a small engine and lots of boot space. Good reliable daily driver. I couldn't care less what kind of car it is. I do however like my ke30.

Thanks for that too ken. Its a very important piece of information many people dont know. The relationship between a nut, bolt, the all important load bearing surface and the magic of shear forces created by the clamping pressure over the subsequent area!

For that very reason i said that i doubt the bolts will shear, i torqued them up correctly and on top of that the suspension would dampen any large forces. I don't specialise iun dynamics but statics. However i do a lot of such load calculations on steel, concrete and timber buildings under dynamic loadings such as earthquake loads and other crazy loadings. So i think i have a good understanding on how bolts and load bearing surfaces work. And how they don't work if not designed well or put together as specified. IE not torqued correctly!!
The forces of hitting something like a pothole, rut holes, or a uneven joint in the road (which is frequent on the auckland motorway) would produce much larger forces than the misaligned wheel did which was a much 'gentler' but repetitive force. No different to driving on a gravel road or something.
I doubt that the picture posted was related to the wheel being misaligned due to the locater ring not lining up but the bolts not being tightened properly.

Im not taking a dig at anyone, everyones advice is good and i appreciate it. I just feel like i have to justify my thinking to TRD Man. You cant believe everything you read.
Are you happy now?

[Mr.Phreak]

this is why the centering rings can be made of plastic and do the job fine.

Disagree with that too

[neo]

I failed the cert for my brake upgrade as my rotors had 1mm of play in the centre. I needed to make a spacer to fill the gap (in this case some brass sheet). Also the certifier mentioned for racing, you shouldn't be allowed on the track unless you have locator rings (as I do) for the wheels, as this transfers the load off the wheel studs.

[Mr Revhead]

this is why the centering rings can be made of plastic and do the job fine.

Disagree with that too

check out what comes in a new set of mags.....

[sergei]

Do you guys realize that MOST vehicles on the road with aftermarket wheels DO NOT have centering rings.
In fact all the cars with aftermarket wheels and no rings, which are imported are passed compliance no problem while even 3mm spacer is a no-no.

[Mr.Phreak]

check out what comes in a new set of mags.....

I didn't mean they aren't used, just that I'd rather pay the extra for piece of mind. And King springs often come with a new set of mags too

It seems to be one of those never ending arguing points with the polycarb camp complaining about how the metal ones get stuck on the hub or in the wheel and the metal guys complain about the plastic ones get brittle and crack when heat stressed. I imagine both do the job fine adequately