Tie Rod End & G-box removal

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Tie Rod End & G-box removal

Postby xsspeed » Sat Nov 17, 2007 6:30 pm

I'm needing a little clarification, on the difference between the tie rod and the tie rod end? Like which is which?

Also without a universal ball joint remover what can i use to release the ball joint on the tie rod?

I am taking the g/box out of the car, so am doing this to remove the drive shafts. I'm following a haynes guide, but doesnt have the best images for this part.

Cheers
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Postby thegreatestben » Sat Nov 17, 2007 6:38 pm

Tie Rod End

They just screw on usually.
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Postby Bling » Sat Nov 17, 2007 6:41 pm

if you are trying to get the tie rod end off the hub a LARGE hammer does wonders 8)
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Postby thegreatestben » Sat Nov 17, 2007 6:45 pm

Yeah but if you plan on using it again, make sure you wind a nut onto the thread other wise you'll $&#$% it
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Postby xsspeed » Sat Nov 17, 2007 6:49 pm

so is the tie rod end, effectively just the connecting part of the steering arm?

When you say put a nut on it, do you mean partially screw a nut onto the thread, below the hub connector bit, and hit the thread/nut up?

This manual I'm using says to coount the turns etc it takes to get the locknut off, is this necessary? First impressions, it seems like overkill to me.
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Postby fivebob » Sat Nov 17, 2007 6:54 pm

tgb.mr2 wrote:Yeah but if you plan on using it again, make sure you wind a nut onto the thread other wise you'll $&#$% it

You don't use the hammer to hit the tie rod end, you use it to hit the steering knuckle where the tie rod joins ;)
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Postby fivebob » Sat Nov 17, 2007 6:57 pm

xsspeed wrote:This manual I'm using says to coount the turns etc it takes to get the locknut off, is this necessary? First impressions, it seems like overkill to me.


If you don't do that then your wheel alignment will be way out, instead of slightly out. Either way you need to get a wheel alignment after completeing the work.

Also given the relatively cheap cost of parts you might also want to change the rack ends and rod ends while you have it apart if the vehicle in question has more that 100k on the odometer ;)
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Postby xsspeed » Sat Nov 17, 2007 7:45 pm

fivebob wrote:
tgb.mr2 wrote:Yeah but if you plan on using it again, make sure you wind a nut onto the thread other wise you'll $&#$% it

You don't use the hammer to hit the tie rod end, you use it to hit the steering knuckle where the tie rod joins ;)


so what do i aim at with the hammer? not the tie rod thread?
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Postby xsspeed » Sat Nov 17, 2007 7:47 pm

fivebob wrote:
xsspeed wrote:This manual I'm using says to coount the turns etc it takes to get the locknut off, is this necessary? First impressions, it seems like overkill to me.


If you don't do that then your wheel alignment will be way out, instead of slightly out. Either way you need to get a wheel alignment after completeing the work.

Also given the relatively cheap cost of parts you might also want to change the rack ends and rod ends while you have it apart if the vehicle in question has more that 100k on the odometer ;)


So by remembering how many turns, will be like how tight it is. Is there a torque wrench setting for these?

thats what i'm having trouble understanding, which is the rack end and which is the rod end?
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Postby Bling » Sat Nov 17, 2007 8:00 pm

xsspeed wrote:So by remembering how many turns, will be like how tight it is. Is there a torque wrench setting for these?

thats what i'm having trouble understanding, which is the rack end and which is the rod end?


maybe its same thing? :?

put up a photo of the part you are trying to remove and i'll show you where to hit.

the point of counting the turns is that the more you turn it, the closer in the wheel will be towards the engine, you see the thread is what determines part of the alignment of the wheel. You pull the wheel in too far or not enough and the alignment will be out
Last edited by Bling on Sat Nov 17, 2007 8:10 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby Alex B » Sat Nov 17, 2007 8:02 pm

You have your steering rack, joined on each end of that is a rack end (the bit with the thread on the outside that you can see) and the tie rod end threads onto that.

To get the tie rod end off you will have to take the split pin and nut off the tie rod end. Crack the locking nut loose that locks the tie rod end onto the rack end. Then with a hammer you will need to give a good solid hit to the bit that the tie rod end goes into (wheel end). You are trying to shock the part that the tie rod end fits into rather than trying to bash it out. If you give it a few good whacks then you'll find it simply pops out.
Now you can unthread the tie rod end from the rack end. Count the number of turns it takes to get off and write it down.

If you want to get the rack end off then you'll probably find a locking tab that goes over the bit with the ball joint in it (where the rack end swivels). Usually knock those off with hammer and screw driver. The whole rack end should then unscrew from the steering rack. It may be tight however, but should just comes out with a bit of persistance
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Postby Alex B » Sat Nov 17, 2007 8:07 pm

Reading what you said at the start again, if this is just for the gearbox then you don't have to take the tie rod ends out anyway. Get the bottom ball joint out and CV nut off. If you get the hub away from the lower control arm by dropping it down with the balljoint unbolted then the entire hub and everything should swing out of the way and the driveshafts will come out.
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Postby rollaholic » Sat Nov 17, 2007 9:28 pm

i usually measure the distance from the end of the rack end to the locking nut also, particularly if im taking the locking nut off.

seriously you cant be too overkill about putting it back how it was, unless you want to pay for a wheel alignment every time you touch it.
BASU!
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Postby Adoom » Sun Nov 18, 2007 9:23 am

pyro_sniper2002 wrote:... Then with a hammer you will need to give a good solid hit to the bit that the tie rod end goes into (wheel end). You are trying to shock the part that the tie rod end fits into rather than trying to bash it out. If you give it a few good whacks then you'll find it simply pops out.
...

Don't be timid hitting it with the hammer. I took mine to my mechanic cause I was being a wuss an I couldnt get it off. He put it in the vice and started WAILING ON IT WITH A REALLY BIG HAMMER!!!! after about three MAN hits it went bang and the tierod end flew halfway across the workshop. (Hit the steering arm where the ball joint goes through, don't hit the ball joint.)
You could reuse it.....I'd replace it, its probably got a bit of play anyway..... Never had any luck with ball joint splitters. They never fit, and they always $&#$% the rubber boot. Big hammers FTW!!!

FYI:
Tie rod end = Thingy on end of steering rack
Tie rod = Suspension part that goes from bottom of strut/lower arm to the front(some go backwards) of the car to stop the strut flopping back and forth. Some cars have 'A' style lower arms and don't have a tie rod. In kp starlets(and escorts) the swaybar is dual purpose an also performs this task. AE86 has a tie rod, and minis do.....ummm
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Postby Lloyd » Sun Nov 18, 2007 9:49 am

Adoom wrote:Tie rod = Suspension part that goes from bottom of strut/lower arm to the front(some go backwards) of the car to stop the strut flopping back and forth. Some cars have 'A' style lower arms and don't have a tie rod. In kp starlets(and escorts) the swaybar is dual purpose an also performs this task. AE86 has a tie rod, and minis do.....ummm


Radius rod/arm ;)
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