Ongoing Caldina Issues

[AJz]

thats a very handy diagram, thank you kind sir

[BZG Wagon]

Fivebob; it sounds like you know your caldina's! Thanks for the pic.

I've been reading up on the net about resetting the ECU.
Is it true that the ECU learns the way you drive & the car will run a bit wanky for the first few hundred (or thousand) kms?
Is it also true it pretty much learns all it has to learn about your driving style in the first 400kms?

http://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=2020
http://electronics.howstuffworks.com/car-computer1.htm

I haven't got round to resetting it as after reading the above pages I was thinking I probably need to take it for a decent drive afterwards.

[flygt4]

the ecu does monitor certain things and adjusts to suit. usually stuff like fuel octane and atmospheric conditions.

for example changing from 95 to 98octane (on GT model at least) will show a small increase in economy over the first tank and after a couple of tanks will show a noticeable increase in power and economy.

[matt dunn]

a speed sensor fault only shows when the sensor is faulting though.
or under certain conditions.
have come across that in an ae111 carib, faulty sensor would sometimes cause a check light to show, but only when it decided to fault. didnt store codes. like wise my ae92 when i forgot to reconnect the speedo cable, above a certian speed the check light would flash every few minutes.
but never stored a code and never stayed on.
would it not be possible for the caldina to do the same?

Speed sensor can be faulty all the time, but will still only bring on the light and log a code under certain conditions,
as how does the ECU determine if the sensor is faulty or the car is just reving and not moving?
Steady throttle opening above a set amount for a set length of time,
or vacuum less than a set amount for a set amount of time,
and the ecu will then bring on the light and log the code,
as it is impossible to hold the throttle at 50% for 15 seconds for example without hitting the limiter.

Around town our carib with no speed sensor will hardly ever bring on the light, but as soon as you start to cruise at a constant speed it will come on.

[BZG Wagon]

***An Update***

I had it in with Toyota for 2 days. They said they checked all the relevant settings which could be causing the knocking under load & everything looked fine with one exception. Both air intake sensors appear to be out (calibration wise) with the one my friend repaired on the cold air box out by a reasonable margin. They would not commit as to whether or not this is causing the problem other than saying it could make sense with the issues I have been having.

I found the car drove better when driving home and the knocking / pinking was almost non-existent under load. It is still doing it every so slightly and on the odd occasion but it doesn't seem to be as bad as before I dropped the car in. I'm assuming this might be due to the ECU reset?

When I got home I looked to see if any codes were present and there do not appear to be any (engine light constantly flashing under diagnosis).

I guess I will replace the air intake sensor & see if that solves the problem completely. I will shop around first as Toyota quoted $146 +gst & $342 +gst for the two sensors.

BTW: whoever the mechanic was that looked at my car - managed to guzzle a quarter of a tank of fuel in only 40 kms!!!

[99gtt]

your air temp sensor does jack f all . That was one of the first things i unplugged when i did my intake 4 years ago .

[rollaholic]

probably had it idling for a long period of time

[matt dunn]

your air temp sensor does jack f all . That was one of the first things i unplugged when i did my intake 4 years ago .

Actually on a late model car it has a pretty good handle on fuel and ign trims.

Do you get the Check light on without it?

[Bling]

BTW: whoever the mechanic was that looked at my car - managed to guzzle a quarter of a tank of fuel in only 40 kms!!!

fuel guages are 100% accurate due to tank shape etc, 1st quarter may dissappear in 40km as you say on the guage, but in the tank might only be a small amount missing

[99gtt]

your air temp sensor does jack f all . That was one of the first things i unplugged when i did my intake 4 years ago .

Actually on a late model car it has a pretty good handle on fuel and ign trims.

Do you get the Check light on without it?

No its been unplugged for 4 years and i also got rid of all the factory boost control crap . With 231 kw at the wheels and factory ecu i would say it runs fairly well

[BZG Wagon]

your air temp sensor does jack f all . That was one of the first things i unplugged when i did my intake 4 years ago .

Actually on a late model car it has a pretty good handle on fuel and ign trims.

Do you get the Check light on without it?

No its been unplugged for 4 years and i also got rid of all the factory boost control crap . With 231 kw at the wheels and factory ecu i would say it runs fairly well

When I had a wire broken to the sensor it ran like a piece of crap. Does the ECU have to be reset or something?

I'm hoping my issues have to do with that sensor because if it does, it will solve all my knocking problem.

[fivebob]

your air temp sensor does jack f all . That was one of the first things i unplugged when i did my intake 4 years ago .

Actually on a late model car it has a pretty good handle on fuel and ign trims.

Do you get the Check light on without it?

No its been unplugged for 4 years and i also got rid of all the factory boost control crap . With 231 kw at the wheels and factory ecu i would say it runs fairly well

When I had a wire broken to the sensor it ran like a piece of crap. Does the ECU have to be reset or something?
Just bridge the terminals with a 2.5kohm resistor, the ECU will think it's 20°C all the time

I'm hoping my issues have to do with that sensor because if it does, it will solve all my knocking problem.