timing waaaay out??

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timing waaaay out??

Postby l1ttle_d3vil » Tue Dec 25, 2007 1:07 pm

hey there, got a bigport 4age running on ae86 gear, all sweet apart from the timing. i've changed it back and forth a few teeth but can't seem to get it right - it seemed to run nicely advanced to around 20º but run like crap at 0º. actually had it running semi-decent at around 40º :roll:

I initially thought the loom may not have been compatible with the dizzy and the ecu was telling it to advance when it wasn't supposed to be but i've checked all the wiring and it matches up all sweet.

any ideas why it won't run properly where its supposed to? i'm a bit stuck for ideas, so can only keep playing around and adjusting things until it comes right.

cheers
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Postby d1 mule » Tue Dec 25, 2007 1:13 pm

the keyway may have broken etc causing the pully to go out?
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Postby Mr Revhead » Tue Dec 25, 2007 1:38 pm

are you setting the timing while bridging the correct diagnostic terminals?
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Postby ezy10s » Tue Dec 25, 2007 2:10 pm

also double check the tensioner pulley is tight.
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Postby l1ttle_d3vil » Tue Dec 25, 2007 3:04 pm

definitely bridging the diagnostic terminals correct.
pretty sure the keyway + tensioner is fine, but I will double check them - i haven't had a good look yet :roll:

cheers
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Postby Lloyd » Tue Dec 25, 2007 4:27 pm

What are you trying to set the base timing at exactly?
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Postby KinLoud » Tue Dec 25, 2007 9:03 pm

Make sure the throttle is fully closed - if the throttle position sensor (tps) thinks it is open then the timing won't go to the base timing of 10 degrees...
Been there, done that... learnt my lesson.

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Postby Trls250s » Tue Dec 25, 2007 11:27 pm

If you cant short that terminal correctly (or as a double check) the factory timing is 16 degrees.

On the cam sprokets there are little dots on the teeth themselves as well as on the wheel, these dots on the teeth line up exactly with the lines on the backing plate.

Also double check your crank pully, they can chip easy and what you think is a timing mark could infact be damage.
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Postby gmacrae » Tue Dec 25, 2007 11:52 pm

what ^he^ said, sounds like cam timing's out
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Postby matt dunn » Wed Dec 26, 2007 11:15 am

Try this

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Postby l1ttle_d3vil » Wed Dec 26, 2007 8:25 pm

keyway seems fine.
tensioner is fine.
TPS was working fine when I took the engine out, will check the wires are connecting properly on the new loom though
cam sprockets are lining up properly with the indents etc
everything exactly as described in the pic above

now the only thing I've worked out is the timing on #2 and #3 is spot on - it will run really nicely at 0º, but if I put the timing of #1 or #4 cylinders at 0º it runs like crap.

the timing is always set from #1 cylinder isn't it?? i've got the leads around the right way, checked it many times!! in the end i've just set the timing going off #2 and it runs nicely, idles smooth, revs smooth, starts first pop etc. surely it wouldn't run like this if something was 180º out would it? otherwise what else could cause this to be back to front?
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Postby Zak » Wed Dec 26, 2007 9:09 pm

It will do that with coil packs if your wiring isn't quite right. Either set it to number 2 or re-check your wiring.
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Postby l1ttle_d3vil » Wed Dec 26, 2007 9:48 pm

that makes sense then - one of the ecu plugs had been smashed so I got a new plug and rewired it all going off a couple of different wiring diagrams.

99% of it is right, dizzy wiring is definitely right. coil wiring is sweet - only two wires to get wrong on that. unless I mixed something up with the TPS wires but that shouldn't swap the timing around like this - more likely just stuff everything up :roll:

oh well, it runs all good like this :D
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Postby ChaosAD » Thu Dec 27, 2007 8:08 am

checked tps calibration?
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Postby l1ttle_d3vil » Thu Dec 27, 2007 6:12 pm

no not yet, but i used the throttle body off the engine which came out so nothing was altered (previous engine ran fine). also if the TPS was faulty surely it wouldn't idle and rev smoothly?
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Postby Zak » Thu Dec 27, 2007 8:23 pm

By the sounds of things you have the wrong wires going to each coil, just need to swap them round, or just leave it, it really makes no difference as long as you know about it.
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Postby l1ttle_d3vil » Thu Dec 27, 2007 9:51 pm

its only running a single coil setup (old bluetop/ae86 style). someone suggested the dizzy rotor is 180º around, which could be right - will check it out.

took the engine out for a drive tonight though and it goes reaaal nicely, gona go good with a turbo on the side :lol:
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Postby matt dunn » Thu Dec 27, 2007 11:12 pm

l1ttle_d3vil wrote:its only running a single coil setup (old bluetop/ae86 style). someone suggested the dizzy rotor is 180º around, which could be right - will check it out.

took the engine out for a drive tonight though and it goes reaaal nicely, gona go good with a turbo on the side :lol:


180 out on the rotor wont make the timing light show up wrong on number 1.

Pull the no1 spark plug, put a 3/4 dr long extension down the hole and
turn the car over with a spanner on the fron crank pulley,
( make sure the ign is off, best to pull the keys out and put them on the seat)
and make sure that the TDC mark on the front pulley is exactly when
the extension stick out the top of the engine the most, to tell the
the piston is at the top of the bore when the marks say TDC.

Matt
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