hey all
putting a silvertop into an aw11 starting boxing day and im after someone to help me with the wiring side of things as i want to get this engine going as soon as possible and im not to onto when it comes to wiring
im in south auckland, doing this in a workshop, wanting someone preferably who has done this before.
alot of beer/spirits will be provided for efforts.
cheers,
Rob
Wanted: someone to help silvertop => aw11 - wiring
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Wanted: someone to help silvertop => aw11 - wiring
by levinguy » Sun Dec 23, 2007 8:48 pm
- levinguy
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by Dragger_Dan » Thu Dec 27, 2007 9:51 am
20v Wiring - the basics
This has been done with blacktop 20v computer and loom into an auto supercharged AW11. Using AW11 alternator and 20v starter motor, both on intake side.
First thing - if using wiring diagrams from the states, probably good idea to completely ignore the colours of the wires. The layout mostly seems to be the same, but the wire colours are not.
Ok, let's get started.
Firstly, my battery is in the funk. In this case the earth earths to the chassis, the the positive goes all the way down the car and straight onto the power feed on the starter motor.
The alternator and starter have been wired in using parts of an AW11 loom, I used none of the stuff on the blacktop for this. The plug we deal with in this part is underneath the battery tray (not too sure on this cause mine doesn't have a battery tray any more). It's a big grey plastic connector, has about 4 or 5 big wires at the bottom, and lotsa little ones at the top. Ignore the top part for now, we're working with the bottom bit.
For this, you need to strip the big grey plug and all the wires attached to it out of your AW11 engine loom. There are 4 wires you use here. The two white ones (which actually link up somewhere, so treat them as one) go straight onto the post on the alternator. The black wire with the blue stripe goes onto the main terminal on the starter. The smaller black with white stripe wire clips onto the starter solenoid.
You now need to earth the engine. Just use the stock earth strap that goes from the top of the gearbox to the side of the engine bay, under where the fuse box mounts.
At this stage you can attach a battery and the car should turn over. If it doesn't and your car was originally auto you will have to bridge two wires. (Explanation of this coming soon). Check your headlights and indicators as well, they should run at this stage. Disconnect the battery before continuing Razz
In the boot, there are only a few wires that need to go from the ECU to the chassis loom.
BATT (red and white on blacktop) is a constant power feed to the ecu, this connects to the red and white wire on the big molex.
FC is the ground switch for the circuit open relay. More on that shortly.
SP1 (purple and white) recieves a speedo signal from the dash. Look at the back of your instrument cluster to work out which wire brings that signal from the dash. This is supposedly needed for blacktop to run properly, but shouldn't be needed for silvertop. (is argued that blacktop also will run fine without it, but no harm in hooking it up anyway)
W (red and yellow) is the engine check light. Again, just look at the back of your instrument cluster to find out what wire this connects to at the molex.
STA (straight black I think) is listed on the diagram as 'starter relay.' Haven't hooked this up yet myself, car runs without it but may start easier with it connected. Will edit when I work this out.
That's the ECU to chassis connections sorted.
You need to create your own circuit open relay. This serves the purpose of killing the fuel pump to prevent fires in an accident. I've used a normal M4 relay (good for 22 amps) from an old loom, and attached wires with female spade connectors.
The 'signal' side of the relay should have 12v fed to one post and FC from the ECU to the other.
The 'switched' side of the relay should have 12v fed to one post, and the thick blue fuel pump wire to the other post.
There are two large wires, one black, one black with red stripe, in the middle of the molex in the boot. These are your two 12v power supplies. They both seem to behave the same so connect to either of them. (if somebody can provide me with a picture of the sticker on the engine bay fuse box cover I can tell you what each one is fed from).
Three things need to be connected here. On the 20v loom there should be two wires that go to the chassis plug. One is a fairly thick black wire with a white stripe. This powers the ignightor and coil. The other one is a little thinner, it is black with silver tabs. This powers the injectors and the ECU. The other thing you need to connect to these 12v feeds is the power to your circuit open relay.
Make sure your coil and ignightor bodies are earthed.
Your engine should now run.
One last thing... the alternator has another plug on it. You will need to take this plug out of your 16v loom. There should be three wires, yellow, black/yellow, and white. The white one joins up to the two big white wires that come off the big terminal on the alternator. Don't ask me why, it just does. The yellow wire goes back to the molex in the boot, to the thick yellow wire in the middle of the molex. Finally the yellow and black wire goes to it's yellow and black counterpart on the molex.
This diagram shows the critical parts of the wiring:
Note I wrote this for a blacktop, there might be a few differences for your silvertop. Good luck.
This has been done with blacktop 20v computer and loom into an auto supercharged AW11. Using AW11 alternator and 20v starter motor, both on intake side.
First thing - if using wiring diagrams from the states, probably good idea to completely ignore the colours of the wires. The layout mostly seems to be the same, but the wire colours are not.
Ok, let's get started.
Firstly, my battery is in the funk. In this case the earth earths to the chassis, the the positive goes all the way down the car and straight onto the power feed on the starter motor.
The alternator and starter have been wired in using parts of an AW11 loom, I used none of the stuff on the blacktop for this. The plug we deal with in this part is underneath the battery tray (not too sure on this cause mine doesn't have a battery tray any more). It's a big grey plastic connector, has about 4 or 5 big wires at the bottom, and lotsa little ones at the top. Ignore the top part for now, we're working with the bottom bit.
For this, you need to strip the big grey plug and all the wires attached to it out of your AW11 engine loom. There are 4 wires you use here. The two white ones (which actually link up somewhere, so treat them as one) go straight onto the post on the alternator. The black wire with the blue stripe goes onto the main terminal on the starter. The smaller black with white stripe wire clips onto the starter solenoid.
You now need to earth the engine. Just use the stock earth strap that goes from the top of the gearbox to the side of the engine bay, under where the fuse box mounts.
At this stage you can attach a battery and the car should turn over. If it doesn't and your car was originally auto you will have to bridge two wires. (Explanation of this coming soon). Check your headlights and indicators as well, they should run at this stage. Disconnect the battery before continuing Razz
In the boot, there are only a few wires that need to go from the ECU to the chassis loom.
BATT (red and white on blacktop) is a constant power feed to the ecu, this connects to the red and white wire on the big molex.
FC is the ground switch for the circuit open relay. More on that shortly.
SP1 (purple and white) recieves a speedo signal from the dash. Look at the back of your instrument cluster to work out which wire brings that signal from the dash. This is supposedly needed for blacktop to run properly, but shouldn't be needed for silvertop. (is argued that blacktop also will run fine without it, but no harm in hooking it up anyway)
W (red and yellow) is the engine check light. Again, just look at the back of your instrument cluster to find out what wire this connects to at the molex.
STA (straight black I think) is listed on the diagram as 'starter relay.' Haven't hooked this up yet myself, car runs without it but may start easier with it connected. Will edit when I work this out.
That's the ECU to chassis connections sorted.
You need to create your own circuit open relay. This serves the purpose of killing the fuel pump to prevent fires in an accident. I've used a normal M4 relay (good for 22 amps) from an old loom, and attached wires with female spade connectors.
The 'signal' side of the relay should have 12v fed to one post and FC from the ECU to the other.
The 'switched' side of the relay should have 12v fed to one post, and the thick blue fuel pump wire to the other post.
There are two large wires, one black, one black with red stripe, in the middle of the molex in the boot. These are your two 12v power supplies. They both seem to behave the same so connect to either of them. (if somebody can provide me with a picture of the sticker on the engine bay fuse box cover I can tell you what each one is fed from).
Three things need to be connected here. On the 20v loom there should be two wires that go to the chassis plug. One is a fairly thick black wire with a white stripe. This powers the ignightor and coil. The other one is a little thinner, it is black with silver tabs. This powers the injectors and the ECU. The other thing you need to connect to these 12v feeds is the power to your circuit open relay.
Make sure your coil and ignightor bodies are earthed.
Your engine should now run.
One last thing... the alternator has another plug on it. You will need to take this plug out of your 16v loom. There should be three wires, yellow, black/yellow, and white. The white one joins up to the two big white wires that come off the big terminal on the alternator. Don't ask me why, it just does. The yellow wire goes back to the molex in the boot, to the thick yellow wire in the middle of the molex. Finally the yellow and black wire goes to it's yellow and black counterpart on the molex.
This diagram shows the critical parts of the wiring:
Note I wrote this for a blacktop, there might be a few differences for your silvertop. Good luck.
- Dragger_Dan
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